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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 14:00:46 GMT -5
Chuck, that is brand new. I turned my old one in on recall a few months ago. But thanks for the heads up.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 11:52:48 GMT -5
OK, thanks for the great information guys. Enjoy your Easter Sunday.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 8:25:20 GMT -5
NO, I did not change the polarity on any LED lights. I just spliced into the LED light circuit. The fuse block does have a little red LED that shows the fuse was blown. So, that is what is allowing the slight bit of current to feed through that circuit and light up the LED lights??? I guess I can understand that.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2018 19:03:57 GMT -5
I am not trying to challenge you lynnmor, but how can current travel through a bulb to the ground if there NO CURRENT going to the bulb? The fuse was blown. It was the same after I pulled the fuse as well. So there is no way there should be any 12V+ current going TO the bulb.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2018 16:04:25 GMT -5
Yah, that amber colored porch light, not the running or driving lights.
But how could the "dim" bulbs get power to light up if the fuse was blown on their circuit. That would mean no 12V+ going to the lights. I don't see how just a connection to ground could provide any power to the lights.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2018 12:20:22 GMT -5
My trailer has the valve on the inside mounted to the floor under the rear bunk by the tank and water heater. Kind of a pain to get to and I wish it would drain faster. It takes a long time for the tank to drain. It is more like a "leak" than a drain.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2018 12:08:25 GMT -5
I know this is old, but there is a 30amp fuse on the front of the trailer near the battery. It is a small rectangular thing bolted to the frame. There is two terminals on it that split the positive (Red) lead from the battery. Mine is red coming from the battery to the fuse and then grey going from the fuse to the trailer. If it is blown, you will get no 12V power. You can get it at any RV dealer or probably an auto parts store. Should cost just a couple dollars. I assume the OP already resolved this problem, but I hope it helps out someone else. I am sure if you drag your trailer to a dealer, they will quickly find and fix the problem, but they will also probably charge you $25 to $50 or even more if they think they can spin it. "Oh, yah, you had a major surge in the electrical system and we had to swap out the power control unit. Here is your bill for $175."
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2018 11:46:24 GMT -5
I had a leak on my 19bh that was coming down through the left part of the cabinet and dripping from the 120v outlet and antenna amplifier. It was coming through the antenna mount on top of the trailer. I looked up there after a rain and noticed that there was water pooling all around the base of the antenna. When at home, I keep the trailer jacked up in the front which allows that water to easily drain back and away from the base, but when it was level while camping, it allowed the water to pool and eventually leak into the antenna base. I had it resealed and didn't have any further problems.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2018 11:32:22 GMT -5
I was installing a battery voltage meter/usb port panel in my trailer yesterday. I patched into the outside amber light for power. After doing some testing, I forgot to disconnect the battery before patching into the wiring. Well, when I tried the voltmeter, it didn't work. So, I turned on the lights in the trailer and some wouldn't come on, but others would come on but at a very low level. They have all been converted over to LED. I couldn't figure it out. My first thought was that I popped a fuse, since some of the lights came on partially, I figured it was getting "some" power, so that wouldn't be it. But, after a minuted, I figured I should check anyway. Sure enough, one of the fuses was popped. I replaced it and now everything works great.
My question is, why did the lights come on partially when the fuse was popped? They were obviously getting some power, just not enough to fully power them.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 4, 2017 9:29:18 GMT -5
lynmoor, I think you should post that mod on the forum. There could be others that would benefit from that setup.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 3, 2017 21:07:15 GMT -5
another update. There is a small hex screw on the pump and the user instructions stated to turn it 1/4 turn until the pump quits cycling. I wound up turning it about a full turn. If seems the pump runs a bit stronger (more pressure) now and after running water it seems to only cycle one more time about 10 seconds later for just a few seconds and then that is it. I can live with that. I left the pump energized almost 24 hours and when I checked it, it wasn't cycling. I think it just had to cycle a few more times to get it to full pressure before shutting off for good. Now it seems to just do it one time for a few seconds. Which I can live with. No water that I can find inside or outside the camper after almost 24 hrs so I ruled out a leak. If it gets worse again, I will pull the pump and open it up and take a look, but I am crossing my fingers that the problem is solved at this point.
lynmoor: I could still use a block of instruction for using my existing water pump to siphon water from an external water tank into my trailer tank.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 2, 2017 21:57:33 GMT -5
OK, here is the latest. I drained the system, drained the hot water heater, opened the cold and hot drain valves and ran the water outlets dry. Then I refilled everything and ran the taps until I got no more sputtering. I still get the pump cycling on after a couple minutes for just a few seconds at a time. But, what I have come to realize after letting it set and pump turned on, is that it stops cycling. At least it cycles much less frequent. After I let it sit for an hour or two, I went back out and sat in the trailer and listed for about 5 minutes or so. The pump never cycled. So, I turned on the tap and let it run a few seconds. When I shut it off, the pump shut off, but then cycled on after about a minute. I waited another minute or so and it cycled again. So, it seems that the problem may be that after opening a tap, the pump is actually shutting off before the lines are fully pressurize and then has to cycle a few more quick times to fully pressurize before it quits cycling for good. I hope that I made sense there. Any thoughts on this new info???
Oh, and after a few hours, I didn't see any water spots under the trailer. I will be leaving it sit with the pump energized over night and will go out and look again for water spots under the trailer as well as whether the pump cycles or not after sitting for many hours without use.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 2, 2017 15:52:25 GMT -5
Thanks. At this point, I am letting the driveway completely dry up, then I will purge and drain the system and then restart the pump. After that, I can leave check for cycling and if so, I will leave it on and then be able to check for leaking under the trailer later on. If no cycling and no leaking over night, I will assume it is an internal pump issue and proceed from there.
Then, as you say, maybe you can enlighten me on the process for having my camper pump draw water from an external tank. Thanks, Bruce
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Post by esox07 on Jul 2, 2017 12:58:57 GMT -5
Certainly, I will look for a repair kit. However, if not, a replacement won't be a total loss. I camp at a lot of sites that don't have water hookups which forces me to use the onboard water and pump. But, it is a small trailer with a small tank and if we stay more than two nights or so, we either have to scrimp on the water or wind up running out. So, I figure I could keep the old pump, which still technically works and use it to siphon water from a portable tank into the trailer holding tank. This allows us basically endless water supply without having to hook up and pull the trailer to a water point to fill up. I had been gravity siphoning in the past, but that requires positioning the portable tank up higher than the holding tank and then takes forever. Using a water pump to transfer water would solve those issues. But, my first option is a repair with a kit. I am just about to research a repair kit. Anyway, before I pull the pump, I plan to run it in the trailer for an afternoon to let it pressurize the lines and then let it cycle on and off during the day. While the trailer is parked on my driveway, I will be able to check for water dripping under the trailer which would tell me it is a leak in the lines between the pump and outlets. Otherwise, I will consider it a backflow problem and likely check valve (diaphram) problem inside the pump allowing water to leak back through the pump back into the holding tank.
It is funny, because the cycling seems to be different every time. Sometimes it will stay off for 10 minutes and run for 10 seconds. Sometimes it is only 4 or 5 minutes between cycling. Today, it was only a minute between cycling but only ran for a few seconds each cycle.
Anyway, I checked all the easily accessible water lines and joints that I could get to and didn't feel or see any leaking while the system was pressurized. But, I figure if I let it run and stay pressurized for an afternoon, it will eventually show a wet spot some where on the drive way underneath the camper if it is leaking from a water line. If not, I think I can assume the issue is inside the water pump and it is leaking back to the holding tank. The problem is right now is that it just rained and the whole driveway is wet right now. I will have to wait to do the leak test.
Seems logical to me, What say you?
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Post by esox07 on Jul 1, 2017 18:51:30 GMT -5
lynnmor:
Will do. I will pull it and take it apart when I get a chance and see if I can find a problem with it. If not, I will probably look for a new one.
Thanks for the help.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 1, 2017 18:08:15 GMT -5
Do you mean the check valve or the whole pump? If the check valve, where do I look for parts?
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Post by esox07 on Jul 1, 2017 16:04:44 GMT -5
When I am not using any water, the water pump kicks on every 4 or 5 minutes and runs for just a few seconds and stops again. I cannot see any leaking water any where. Is this normal for the water system to slowly lose pressure or is this a sign of a problem? If so, what should I check. Like I said, I cannot fine any leaking water anywhere.
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Post by esox07 on Jun 27, 2017 22:47:00 GMT -5
Yah, I know that. It was mentioned above. And I knew I was pushing it at the time.
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Post by esox07 on Jun 11, 2017 9:16:51 GMT -5
Hey guys, I got the window out and I put the butyl tape around the outside (2 layers) and then after a couple days to let the butyl tape squeeze out fully, I trimmed it and added the proflex along the top and two sides to ensure a good waterproof seal. But, my question is now. Is this stuff a good substitute for the Proflex: www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/butyl-caulk/osi-quad-reg-voc-white-advanced-formula-outdoor-sealant-10-oz/p-1444432310346.htmI have nothing against the proflex. It seems to do a great job, but it is not available locally and is pricey when adding in shipping. Plus, I have to wait about 5 days or so for it to arrive after I order it. I think I have seen this stuff mentioned for RV sealant projects and it is reasonably priced and available locally. What are your thoughts?
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Post by esox07 on Jun 7, 2017 17:53:46 GMT -5
There really isnt a need to replace them if they are still good. You should be able to pull the hub and check them out. Then, if they are still good, just clean and repack them. But if you are set on replacing them, they are not all that expensive. I don't think even Timken would set you back too much. Depending on how many miles you put on the trailer, they should outlast the trailer if you keep up with maintenance.
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