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Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 23:55:13 GMT -5
Here is a video that I intend to follow in resealing my window. Is this the correct solution? I have Proflex RV sealant on order from Camping World and can pick up some Butyl tape from Home Depot. Let me know if I am on the right track or if I am off base here. How to reseal RV windows the right wayThanks.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 13:34:03 GMT -5
If you think of the brand of stuff you are talking about, let me know. It would be a lot more convienient if I could get it at a local Home Depot or Menards. I probably won't be able to get to it for a while anyway. After today, we are supposed to have rain the next 4 days....I will have to do some temporary waterproofing in the mean time.. Maybe some tape or something to get my by the next 4 or 5 days.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 8:06:45 GMT -5
Oh, damn, pulling the window is not what I was expecting. But, I guess I can do that with the help of a video. Where can I find the Proflex? Is it available at a Home Depot or Menards, or will I have to find an RV dealer/supplier?
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Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 0:52:18 GMT -5
I have a 2011 Sportsmen 19BH. I found that I have a leak in the window over the sink. It is coming in somewhere along the top of the window and comes out the bottom of the window and runs down the inside wall onto the counter. I know it is entering through the outside top edge of the window, because the last time we were out, it was raining and leaking out the bottom on the inside. I put a dry rag along the top edge on the outside and it stopped the leaking.
So, I know where to apply the sealant, but I am unsure of what brand or type of sealant I should use on it. I thought a regular silicone sealant would work, but thought that maybe there is a product specifically made for TT's and MH's.
If any one has any advice or suggestions, I am anxious to hear them.
Thanks.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 24, 2017 9:43:24 GMT -5
That might be your best bet. Post up a photo when you get it completed. It might interest others here.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2017 9:01:34 GMT -5
I did go ahead and order two precut HF346 keys off ebay. Both arrived a few days later and both work perfectly in my locks. It cost me $7.38 for both keys. Now I have an extra set that I carry with my truck keys. One attached to the frame of the camper with a magentic box, one in the truck console and a spare in the house.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2017 21:56:12 GMT -5
I know these things are economy trailers but that POS faucett is just crazy cheap. Has anyone else accidentally pulled up or bumped their faucett while cleaning some dishes and had the spout come completely come out of the base? I have, it is like Old Faithful inside the camper. The spout isn't even locked into the base. You can just pull it out. It is basically just one of those garden hose quick connects but it is only held in by friction. It doesn't lock at all. I know faucetts can get a bit expensive and KZ probably saved $25 by putting in the $5 faucett instead of bottom end real faucett. OK, rant is over now and I am happy to say that I went out and bought a MOEN kitchen faucett at Menards today and it is installed and ready for me to dewinterize the camper for the coming season.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 31, 2017 21:43:42 GMT -5
I agree as well. My 19BH came with a spare tire carrier on it and I have pulled on it and felt that was probably about the limit of what I would want to put on it. I think you will be very dissapointed if you try to mount a hitch carrier on it without doing some custom bracing and reinforcing of the bumper.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 12, 2017 21:32:00 GMT -5
That is good to know. I guess I assumed that the local hardware stores wouldn't have the blanks necessary to make the RV lock keys. I am not sure why I made that assumption, but glad I know better now in case I ever need keys in the future.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 12, 2017 20:55:47 GMT -5
Interesting Chuck. So are you saying they have the blanks there and will cut them according to the key code for you for $2 each including the blank???
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Post by esox07 on Mar 12, 2017 20:08:18 GMT -5
I just ordered two Fastec FIC HF346 keys precut for my camper. I got them from an Ebay store. They were Less than $7.50 for two including shipping. I checked them in the lock and they work perfectly. www.ebay.com/itm/221769008339?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=520615829547&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITThis is a good reminder to have a couple spares for your rig. There is nothing like spending a few hours trying to get back into your camper after you lock the keys inside or lose a key or whatever. I have one spare in a magnetic key case stashed with the trailer and one on my car key ring and another in my truck. But, if you do happen to get locked out, just ask a neighbor if you can borrow their key. Almost all RV keys are one of several and it is likely that a neighbors key will open your RV. This probably isn't a very comforting revalation for security concious owners, but it is good to be aware of. If you want more secure locks, it will probably cost quite a bit to have yours changed out with more secure ones, but something you may want to consider if you live and camp in areas that require the extra vigilance.
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Post by esox07 on Mar 12, 2017 19:48:27 GMT -5
I agree with above. I just use a screwdriver to carefully pry the dust covers off. I would check the bearings each spring and if it looks like they need new grease, then pull them off and clean them up, inspect them, and if they are in good shape, regrease them and reinstall. Don't just stick more grease in them on top of the old stuff.
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Post by esox07 on Feb 4, 2017 19:34:31 GMT -5
lynnmor: yep, after I got back from the trip, I did some research and found that most trailer tires are only rated for 65. I was unaware of that before. That is also why I posted the speed I was traveling as I knew it was a factor. Heat was too as it was 101 that day. But, the tire did hold up for 3/4 of the 3500 mile round trip from Wisconsin to S. Texas in August. And I am just thankful that it happened on a rural stretch of the interstate instead of while I was going through Dallas or Austin Texas. That would have been a nightmare as I only have a single axle trailer. I luckily only did little damage from the loose tire tread flapping in the wheel well.
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Post by esox07 on Feb 4, 2017 18:03:50 GMT -5
Yep, blowouts are no fun. I had one doing 72 on the interstate. That was with 5 year old original tires. I have a set of good years on now. They were what Walmart had when got to the nearest one.
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Post by esox07 on Dec 21, 2016 15:57:52 GMT -5
I realize this is an old thread, but, I have a 2011 19BH as well. I did get some water in one time while sitting in the driveway but nothing since. It did seem to come from the Window over the bunk/dining table. If anyone has any information on the recall for the windows, I would greatly appreciate it.
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Heating
Dec 21, 2016 14:20:34 GMT -5
Post by esox07 on Dec 21, 2016 14:20:34 GMT -5
I have a 2011 Sportsmen 19BH. My furnace is under the refrigerator, just to the right of the stove. It is propane operated, not electrical. I also have the A/C unit in the wall above the bunk/dining table area which is electric. They are two different systems. It sounds like you are confused and think the the A/C is also a heater which it is not. Here is the part of the 19BH operating manual for the camper that pertains to using the furnace starts on page 54. KZ Sportsmen Classic Owners Manual.pdf (752.17 KB) Personally, I just take a small electric heater (1000 watts) on camping trips and as long as we have electrical hookups, that is plenty to heat our 19BH. Not only is it convenient, but it allows us to save our propane and we don't have to worry about carbon monoxide and all that. You might want a little bigger heater if you camp cold, but I have camped down to below freezing temps with no problem at all.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 10, 2015 14:25:11 GMT -5
OK, so to update this dilemma. After going back and forth between the dealer and KZ Customer Service 2 or 3 times each and each blaming the other for the installation of the brake lines, I finally got KZ to call the dealer and figure out between the two who actually installed the brake lines on my trailer. Bottom line is that the factory installs the Surge Brakes and all components to include the brake lines and the dealer puts in the fluid and bleeds the brakes. I asked if the practice of installing them ON TOP of the axle would be reconsidered and she said “NO”. She stated that that is the way they had always been done in the past and are still done now. I asked why and she said that they had not found it to be a problem in the past. She did allude that they had seen the crimping on a “couple” before but wouldn’t get specific. So, I am glad mine are fixed and I won’t have to worry about it in the future. The hundreds or perhaps thousands of other KZ travel trailers with surge brakes however should worry. I understand that maybe it is uncommon for a trailer to bottom out but I don’t think it is uncommon enough for the factory not to take steps to alleviate the problem if it does. It would not even require any additional expense, just a simple rerouting of the existing lines upon installation. If not, then there should be “bump stops” installed in case of bottoming out to prevent the lines from crimping. Just about everyone towing a travel trailer has hit a big bump, RR tracks, ran over a curb or whatever that could easily lead to the suspension bottoming out. In my case, I can’t remember every hitting a bump or road hazard all that hard while towing. It could have easily been done during the two years it was used as a rental. We all know how people treat rentals. But bottom line is that is it a reasonable possibility for the suspension to be bottomed out which inevitably would lead to crimped brake lines with the way they are installed now and have been for a long time by the factory. Why the company wouldn’t even consider changing the current practice after being warned of the potential problem is beyond me. They are ripe for a big law suit. I guess that is when they will “Review their installation procedures”. After someone is killed or injured because the trailer they were pulling didn’t have functional brakes. And this is after they were informed of a possible problem. Does this remind you of the GM ignition recall issue? The KZ Customer Service representative was very apologetic, cooperative and forthcoming but I think someone above her pay grade needs to take note of this issue now. If you own a KZ travel trailer with surge brakes, I highly recommend that you get under the trailer and check your brake lines or at least have it checked by a competent mechanic. Waiting until you are going 70mph down the interstate and having the car in front of you lock up their brakes is not the time to find out that you don’t have working brakes on your trailer.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 7, 2015 12:03:06 GMT -5
I finally got a call back from the dealer I purchased the trailer from. They said they were waiting for one of their current 19BH rentals to come back in to see how the brake lines were run. He said one finally came back today and sure enough, the brake lines run along the top of the axle. He said they were not crimped however and that it comes like that from the factory. It was not a dealer modification.
I sent KZ a message over a week ago regarding this and haven't heard back. I tried calling this morning and got voice mail. I left a message to call me back.
But if you have a KZ-Sportsmen trailer and it has surge brakes, I highly recommend that you check the brake lines to make sure they are not run along the top of the axle and crimped like mine were. It seems KZ has been installing the brake line for years this way. I am surprised it hasn't come to light before. If someone was in an accident with their trailer, it seems likely that if the brake lines were kinked as mine were that KZ could be held liable. And if they have been sending out trailer like this for years (mine is a 2011), it seems they need to institute a recall.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 6, 2015 14:22:51 GMT -5
I have a 19Bh and the place where the 190 dinnette/bed is where my trailer has a bed. It is very nearly as big as a queen bed and has plenty of room for one or TWO people. The bed in the trailer should be 54" x 80". A Queen bed is 60" x 80" so you are just 6" shy of a queen bed.
Oh, and if you are at all considering a bigger trailer, go ahead and get it. You will regret not doing it to start with.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 6, 2015 14:06:07 GMT -5
I already redid the brake lines, bled them and tested them. I learned a lot by doing it myself (with help from my buddy). I know know how the system works rather than just the theory behind the system. I also learned a lot about brake lines in general and how to bleed them. I also learned how to actually test the brakes to make sure they are working. I shudder every time I think about the fact that I was driving around without any brakes for who knows how long. It could have been since I purchased it as the brakes were probably crimped the first time by one of the renters that rented it from the dealer. Now I will be confident that I have working brakes for my trip from Wisconsin to Corpus Christy, TX and back in a few weeks.
My first thought was that it was a factory install but now I believe as you do that the surge brakes were installed after market by the dealer. I sent a message to them over a week ago to the salesman that sold me the trailer. He said he forwarded my message to the service department and they would be contacting me. I haven't hear anything in more than a week. I just replied to the email and stated as such. I really was happy with the dealer and how they have treated me up to this point, but if they are just going to try to let this issue die off, then I will be looking elsewhere for future RV needs. I would have taken the trailer back to show them but they are over two hours drive from me. I am at least looking for an acknowledgement that it was a screwed up installation job. A "we are sorry" would be nice too.
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