|
Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 0:52:18 GMT -5
I have a 2011 Sportsmen 19BH. I found that I have a leak in the window over the sink. It is coming in somewhere along the top of the window and comes out the bottom of the window and runs down the inside wall onto the counter. I know it is entering through the outside top edge of the window, because the last time we were out, it was raining and leaking out the bottom on the inside. I put a dry rag along the top edge on the outside and it stopped the leaking.
So, I know where to apply the sealant, but I am unsure of what brand or type of sealant I should use on it. I thought a regular silicone sealant would work, but thought that maybe there is a product specifically made for TT's and MH's.
If any one has any advice or suggestions, I am anxious to hear them.
Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by lynnmor on Apr 28, 2017 6:18:03 GMT -5
You may have one that foam was used as a gasket. The only proper fix is to remove the window and do it right. There are Youtube videos to help. Do not use silicone caulk, Proflex is one brand of caulk available in self leveling for flat surfaces and non-sag for vertical. Butyl tape is often used under the window frame at installation.
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 8:06:45 GMT -5
Oh, damn, pulling the window is not what I was expecting. But, I guess I can do that with the help of a video. Where can I find the Proflex? Is it available at a Home Depot or Menards, or will I have to find an RV dealer/supplier?
|
|
|
Post by lynnmor on Apr 28, 2017 11:47:38 GMT -5
There is a compatible caulk available at the box stores. Don't have the brand right now. Dealers will have it for big bucks. I buy everything I can online. Since I am out camping, searching is a bit limited for me so it isn't easy to provide more help.
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 13:34:03 GMT -5
If you think of the brand of stuff you are talking about, let me know. It would be a lot more convienient if I could get it at a local Home Depot or Menards. I probably won't be able to get to it for a while anyway. After today, we are supposed to have rain the next 4 days....I will have to do some temporary waterproofing in the mean time.. Maybe some tape or something to get my by the next 4 or 5 days.
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on Apr 28, 2017 23:55:13 GMT -5
Here is a video that I intend to follow in resealing my window. Is this the correct solution? I have Proflex RV sealant on order from Camping World and can pick up some Butyl tape from Home Depot. Let me know if I am on the right track or if I am off base here. How to reseal RV windows the right wayThanks.
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Apr 30, 2017 0:41:27 GMT -5
Looks like you are on the right track for sure Good luck Safe travels Chuck
|
|
|
Post by lynnmor on Apr 30, 2017 5:45:54 GMT -5
I would use a plastic scraper instead of the sharp metal. Clean up the surfaces with mineral spirits. There are other videos as well if you want to see even more.
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on Apr 30, 2017 10:17:49 GMT -5
Yes, I watch a half dozen videos. It just seemed like that one seemed the most logical and also seemed to mirror written descriptions on how to do the repair. However, after watching another video, I came to the realization that it could simply be a plugged up water drain in the window frame. I used a piece of wire through the drain holes in the bottom outside of the window to hopefully clean the drain track. I then pored some water into the drain channel and it seemed to drain outside through the drain holes just fine. We have some rain predicted the next couple days, so I have the trailer leveled in the drive way with a rag under the window on the inside in case it still leaks. If it doesn't leak inside, then I will assume I solved the problem. Oddly, the trailer sat all winter and spring in the driveway but I keep the front end jacked up to facilitate draining the water off the roof. It never leaked all winter or spring despite a wet spring. Also, it did leak last summer. I thought it was simply my wife splashing water when doing dishes. But this year on our last trip the counter was soaked again. My wifed swore she was really careful when she did the dishes. It had been raining so I thought that maybe we did have a leak. But since it didn't leak all winter, I still wasn't convinced.
Well, when it started raining on our trip, I did notice more water on the counter and upon close inspection, could see the water running out the bottom of the window down the wall to the counter. It seems it only happens when the camper is level front to back. So, that tells me it could be something plugging up one of the drain channels in the window. I have two tubes of the Proflex on the way from Camping World, and if necessary, I will pull the window and redo it. I also agree that using a plastic scraper is a good idea.
I also checked the other windows with drain holes (weep holes) and ran a wire through them.
I will try to remember to update this thread after I verify that I have solved the issue. Others out there might want to do some quick maintenance and make sure their window drain channels are clear as well.
|
|
|
Post by lynnmor on Apr 30, 2017 12:28:12 GMT -5
If it does have the foam for a gasket, I would do it right and get rid of that troublesome material. Water leaks are nothing to fool with, they can and do destroy trailers. When you find a problem, often severe damage has already occurred inside walls, floor and ceiling.
If you are only dealing with condensation on the inside of the glass, perhaps you are good to go but make sure that outside water in not getting in.
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on Apr 30, 2017 13:38:22 GMT -5
I hear you. I hate plumbing and water issues. I think my trailer does have the "foam" for gaskets. That is what I initially thought it was when I was looking at it. But then, I figured it was some type that was made for what it was being used for. Is it just a cheap way of doing the windows? Maybe I should consider redoing all my windows???
I like my KZ Sportsmen, but I have found several areas where the lack of quality has completely amazed me. I realize I have an "economy" model, but c'mon. 1. The water system was completely sealed so that it required removal of a bunch of waterlines to winterize it and dewinterize it. I have since installed bypass valves to make the process as easy as turning a switch to do the winterization and then dewinterization. 2. I had to replace the brake lines on my trailer ( I have surge brakes). The originals were routed up along the top of the axle so that when the trailer frame bottomed out on the axle, it would smash the brake line. Both brake lines were completely crimped so there was no fluid flowing which essentially disabled my brakes completely.....Upon contacting KZ, they first denied that they even install surge brakes on trailers and claimed it was an aftermarket system. I called the dealer and they said NO. It was factory and all their trailers with surge brakes come with them from the KZ factory. I finally got KZ to acknowledge that they installed the brake system but could get no reasoning for having routed the brake lines as they did. I just assume it was a dumbass tech in the factory. I hope they don't do them all like that as standard procedure!!! 3. The faucet on the kitchen sink was a $3 plastic POS. If you tried to rotate the spout, half the time it would pull out of the base and you would have a geyser in the trailer. It was held in with a rubber O-ring gasket and any upward force pulled it out. It looked like the type of system they use on the quick disconnect for garden hoses except that the faucet spout is not locked in. The whole faucette was made out of plastic. I finally replaced it with a real faucet and am so relieved now. OK done with the ranting......Should I consider replacing the seals on all my windows? This is on a 2011 Sportsmen 19BH.
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Apr 30, 2017 15:43:46 GMT -5
Well you have now fixed just about everything to make it yours, 2011 is not that old and if it were me I believe I would go ahead an replace the window seals. Of course I am the type of person that if one tail light bulb goes out I replace both. I also replaced our complete roof on our old 5th wheel because I found a couple of leaks, when taking it off I only found one very small place that the wood was wet and I replace it. We also had plastic hardware which was replace with new hardware/faucets from local box store, I have not seen any of the MFG's of lower end TT put real hardware in their units. Until you start to get over the $35k to $40k range do you see many upgrade I believe in any of the MFG's, we went to a travel show a while back an I have to tell you I was shocked to see some of the junk that they were showing, trim coming off inside, lights already burned out, doors not lined up right ... The dealer could not believe how well it was maintained for a 2006 5th wheel, they had it on the lot one week and sold it for 4K more than what they gave me for it and I got 10K on trade ... I have to Say that Montana and Kz were the only ones we really saw that were standing up to the travel show crowd .... Now this may because of the dealer staying on top of things and fixing something that was wrong, but I have to say I was impressed with the Kz Gold 5th wheel line as how well it was built. But we are also taking about trailers in the $55K to $65K or more range so they better be somewhat better LOL ... So if you come to the Kz Rally this summer you would get face time with the Tech's and engineers an ask the questions of why they did this and that an give input how they can improve such ... Of course this opportunity to talk with them would not be a bitch session but to ask and give input on their product constructively ... As well you get meet other great Kz owners a discuss the product and your camping travels an have some great food besides ... Safe Travels Chuck
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on Apr 30, 2017 17:56:30 GMT -5
Where/when is the rally. I have heard of it in past years. I really won't be able to attend, but just interested in knowing more about it...One day maybe.
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on May 1, 2017 13:30:47 GMT -5
2017 KZ National Rally You are cordially invited to attend the 2017 KZ National Rally to share information, meet old friends, make new ones and have fun. DATES: July 30, 2017 through August 6, 2017 LOCATION: Shipshewana South Campground 1105 South Van Buren Street Shipshewana, IN 46565 260 768-4669 WAGONMASTERS: Walter & Laurie Conrad This event is limited to KZ branded products only that are supported by the KZ Manufacturer Website or KZ Family Forum. Full hook-up pull thru sites are being held under the name "KZ Rally" on a limited first come first serve basis. Campsite fees are $44.00/day with a buy 6 days get the 7th day free. Reservations & Registration are being accepted now with a cut off date of Jun 16, 2017. It is the responsibility of any attendee to make their own reservation with the campground and to complete registration with the wagon masters. Once reservation is made with the campground, you must register at 2017kzrally@embarqmail.com Please use; Subject: Rally Registration INCLUDE: Full name, address and phone number of each attendee; Make, model, year and license plate number of trailer you'll be camping in; Emergency Contact: Full name and phone number. Complete information is required before registration is accepted and information will NOT be shared. Here are a few of the exciting events planned for the 2017 Rally. Please note some of the events will incur additional cost. Reminder closing date for rally reservations is Jun 17, 2017. Looking forward to seeing everyone there!!! TOURS:KZ Factory Tour Guided tour of plant including Lunch, Q&A with Product Specific Managers, Prototypes, Driving Class for Ladies, Prizes!!! MORryde Tour: Guided tour of plant including Lunch, Educational Seminar, Prizes!!! LOCAL EVENTS:RV Hall of Fame Menno-Hof Museum Old Bag Factory Heritage Tour & Quilt Gardens Shipshewana Flea Market Amish Acres Festival CAMPGROUND EVENTS:KZ technicians 1 on 1 time for 15 minutes onsite at your campsite. MORryde technicians sales & accessory booth. Meet & Greet Dinner Potluck Dinner Corn Roast Ice Cream Social Corn Hole/Baseball Tournament Read more: kzfamilyforum.com/thread/1467/2017-national-kz-rally-events#ixzz4fqyGD4cJ
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on May 21, 2017 16:16:59 GMT -5
Update, the leak returned. We were out this weekend and it rained all day saturday into sunday and by the afternoon on Saturday, I once again noticed the slight drip, drip, drip out from under the window over the sink, down the wall onto the counter top. I just kept a rag under it until we left and when I got home, I got up on a tall bucket and looked along the top of the window, there is clearly a breach in the seal. I will be pulling the window and re-doing the seal and replacing the window this week sometime. I really hope this is the final solution. Water leaks stress me the he11 out. I guess I could just patch that spot with some sealant, but I would rather pull the whole window and redo the entire seal and make sure it is done right. What do you guys think:
|
|
|
Post by esox07 on Jun 11, 2017 9:16:51 GMT -5
Hey guys, I got the window out and I put the butyl tape around the outside (2 layers) and then after a couple days to let the butyl tape squeeze out fully, I trimmed it and added the proflex along the top and two sides to ensure a good waterproof seal. But, my question is now. Is this stuff a good substitute for the Proflex: www.menards.com/main/paint/caulks-sealants/butyl-caulk/osi-quad-reg-voc-white-advanced-formula-outdoor-sealant-10-oz/p-1444432310346.htmI have nothing against the proflex. It seems to do a great job, but it is not available locally and is pricey when adding in shipping. Plus, I have to wait about 5 days or so for it to arrive after I order it. I think I have seen this stuff mentioned for RV sealant projects and it is reasonably priced and available locally. What are your thoughts?
|
|