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Post by esox07 on Jul 30, 2018 7:51:31 GMT -5
Thank you nvguy. I have gotten the same information elsewhere. I usually don't camp with sewer hookups, but now I know how to properly use them when I do. I will also stick with the RV treatment pods.
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Post by esox07 on Jul 29, 2018 21:19:12 GMT -5
If you are hooked up to sewer, should you still use a pod of the black water tank treatment?
Also, is OK to simply use a little bleach in the tank instead of the treatment pod?
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Post by esox07 on Jul 29, 2018 21:16:43 GMT -5
I went through this last year. I got it fixed up with some help on this forum. The one thing you need to understand is that you cannot use standard window materials or proceedures to repair leaks. Our RVs are mobile and as such experience a lot of flexing in the body and frame. Standard silicone will not hold up. You need to use butyl tape and to be reall sure you sealed it up good, some ProFlex sealant. Here is my thread from last year: kzfamilyforum.com/thread/1466/fixing-window-leak
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Post by esox07 on Apr 4, 2018 20:08:06 GMT -5
Yah, I won't be over in your neck of the woods any time soon.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 4, 2018 9:26:42 GMT -5
Glad I asked. I have one of those brushes that attaches to the garden hose. It is soft and works good for overall cleaning when dipped in a bucket of soapy water. I will just have to get up there with a good rag and some good cleaner/soap and use some elbow grease on the tough spots. Anyone bother to do the roof. Mine is aluminum and sits in the open, so it doesn't collect a lot of leaves and other debris.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2018 20:41:41 GMT -5
You should ask one of the electrically inclined members who know more than me, but evidently it is a backfeed issue due to the fuse being blown and the little blown fuse indicator LED by the fuse being on.
Here is a quote: "Lynnmor is right on target. What was probably happening is the resistance in the negative circuit to the battery is higher than the resistance to go "backward" thru the LEDs and then thru what ever else is on that same circuit maybe the voltmeter you installed or maybe thru the fuse block itself, as some have circuitry that has small LEDs to indicate if a fuse has blown."
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2018 20:35:26 GMT -5
Those rubbing compounds are more for automotive finishes. I don't think the trailer paint would stand up to it.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2018 17:28:55 GMT -5
OK, probably best to err on the side of caution. That is kind of what I though someone would say. There are just some stains that are not coming off with the brush, soap and water. But I guess I will forgo the pressure washer. I don't want to do it and find out I made a big mistake. I can live with some staining. Stripped paint and possible appliance damage, not so much.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2018 17:15:58 GMT -5
Otherwise, I should be fine?
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2018 16:43:28 GMT -5
I am considering renting a pressure washer to do my driveway this spring/summer. I was thinking it would be a good time to use it on my Sportsmen 19BH. Is that recommended or should I stick with a brush that attaches to the hose?
The pressure washer is rated for 1850 PSI. I would of course take care around windows and such. Let me know what you think.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2018 12:17:06 GMT -5
Chuck, if I knew of a shop that would do a 33 foot trailer for $125 to include removing the old stuff, I wouldn't hesitate to let them do it as long as you are comfortable with their work. That seems dirt cheap. I suppose if you know what you are doing, it isn't that big of a job.
I took mine in for that roof (antenna) leak to my local shop and they hit me for $75. Took 3 minutes and they charged me for a half hour labor and a tube of sealant. If I was sure it was the antenna, I would have done it myself.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 3, 2018 11:23:47 GMT -5
Yah, I agree, probably time for a full roof reseal. If you can do it yourself, it isn't very expensive at all. Just use a quality sealant made for RV roofs and even if you have it done, it isn't too bad that way wither.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 2, 2018 19:12:12 GMT -5
You could spray water up there and watch for it to start leaking and then try to trace it back to the source. Also, after you spray or after a rain, look up on top and try to see if you can see anything from that vantage point.
Hope you are feeling better now.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 2, 2018 10:07:55 GMT -5
I realize now that it isn't truly a fuse. I guess it seemed reasonable to me that it was a fuse because the guy called it a fuse and the fact that it was "blown" or non-working when I had to replace it. Probably because it "corroded" as you say they are prone to.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 2, 2018 10:05:23 GMT -5
Yep, I have a battery isolator switch right at the battery. I did read that web site you posted. Good stuff there.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 21:02:27 GMT -5
Well, I bought mine from a dealer who used it as a rental for two summers. That is how it was when I got it.. Seems odd that it is mounted in the open like that so the two terminals are close and exposed. I would think safety chains wind up shorting it out quite often as well as any number of other activities going on in that area. I will probably consider moving mine. I did have to replace it a couple years back. I can't remember if I did anything to pop it or if it just died.
Since you say it is an "Auto Reset circuit breaker", I assume it isn't actually a one time use fuse. I thought the parts guy that I bought it from said that it was a "Slow Blow" fuse. I don't know. I just know that my battery power was good going into it and dead coming out so I took it in and asked the guy if he knew what it was and if he had a replacement. He said sure and handed me that one and I thought that is when he said it was a 30amp slow blow fuse.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 20:50:20 GMT -5
Hmmmmm, I didn't realize that 12.2v was only 60% charged. I will have to put the battery maintainer back on it. Thanks.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 15:05:46 GMT -5
Yah, that's the one they sent back after I sent in the old one. It was kind of nice to have a brand new one. Not sure what the problem was with the old one, but no matter now.
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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 14:06:52 GMT -5
Oh, I got it all fixed and the voltmeter installed:
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Post by esox07 on Apr 1, 2018 14:01:55 GMT -5
Never thought about that. I will give that shot after I de-winterize it in a few weeks. Thanks.
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