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Post by joecamper on Sept 28, 2017 14:30:51 GMT -5
Thanks Chuck for your ideas and links. I fired off an email just now!
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Post by joecamper on Sept 26, 2017 20:57:05 GMT -5
Lubricating the exposed portion of the jacks doesn't seem to help. I've watched a few YouTube videos on how to lubricate the jacks and all the ones I've seen don't look like mine and don't really discuss how to disassemble the electric motor/gear system. Still looking ...
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Post by joecamper on Sept 22, 2017 18:15:20 GMT -5
I have a 2014 Durango and the electric jacks require lubrication. Only the manual doesn't say how to do this. They are somewhat hard to get to, and lubricating the extended jacks them selves doesn't seem to be the cure.
Anyone got an answer?
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Post by joecamper on Sept 16, 2017 19:23:14 GMT -5
ronc. Good point, I completely forgot to mention that. I do the same thing, use the fireplace and a small electric heater, but when it's going to be below freezing make sure the heater is running to keep the "belly" warm.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 14, 2017 15:53:40 GMT -5
You can find a lot of information regarding solar panels at RV.Net. It's a heavily used forum and they cover a lot of different types of campers.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 13, 2017 13:36:33 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that johnr. That is probably the most important step along with filling the fresh water tank in getting ready for cold temps. I generally put mine in the shower stall so it's out of the cold temps and can drain out without messing anything up in the camper.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 12, 2017 21:13:34 GMT -5
Hey, no problem. Always great to find out new stuff you don't know. At least, that seems to be what happens to me ... LOL
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Post by joecamper on Sept 11, 2017 16:25:21 GMT -5
An add on after reading Chuck's post. I had the camper in Alabama for two months ... mid December through mid February ... in 2013 when they had all those record setting cold spells. Knowing I might need to use a lot of propane, I bought two additional 30 pound bottles. We kept nice and warm the whole time. I found I was getting about a week on a bottle when it was the coldest (reached an all time low of 13 degrees where we were). So, yeah, expect to use a lot of propane if you're down to 20s or less for any length of time.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 11, 2017 16:10:08 GMT -5
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Post by joecamper on Sept 10, 2017 21:37:21 GMT -5
I have a 2012 Durango and have camped in some pretty cold temps. Many times in sub 20s, a lot in sub freezing temps. But I don't know about your camper. I don't think mine was rated for four seasons, but it did have some vents dedicated to the underbelly. I have camped in snow, but after one hair raising experience towing in the snow, I'll try to avoid that all costs!
Hope that helped some.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 10, 2017 21:33:29 GMT -5
A few years past with a similar sized camper, I had freezing problems also. The only thing that seemed to work was setting the temperature control just down a little bit (the temp was controlled at the AC unit, not a thermostat). In your cast, I would think 70 might be part of the issue.
Just throwing that out for what it's worth.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 9, 2017 14:36:30 GMT -5
I used to dry camp all the time and found that the heater would run for a day or two depending on how cold it was. Bought a small generator and run it during the night to charge the batteries. As lynnmor suggested, time to get a small generator and your problem goes away.
You can find some pretty inexpensive units at Harbor Freight.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 9, 2017 14:33:11 GMT -5
I replaced my thermostat with this one. Works great, but does also run the AC. You could probably find another that was cheaper and does the job.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 7, 2017 21:12:09 GMT -5
As for as the oil might be a problem, I'm going to a camping spot next week and will do a thorough flushing which should take care of any hardening that might show up. I also plan on putting plenty of water along with a healthy dose of Dawn before I head out.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 7, 2017 14:28:04 GMT -5
Not looking for a solution to sticking cable operated valves, but rather a solution that I read about on another forum that worked for me.
I had noticed my black tank's valve wasn't completely closing, as in no where near closing. I use an external valve so I was able to stop the tank from emptying. However, now I couldn't empty just the grey tank without sewer water coming out also. I had this issue when I first bought my Durango, so the dealer fixed it under warranty for me at the time. When I asked recently what it would cost to have this done again, it was going to be in the hundreds of dollars.
As I noted above, I had read someone suggesting getting some cheap cooking oil and that may lubricate the valve so that it works again. So off I went to Sam's club and bought a 4 1/2 gallon jug. Put the whole amount down the toilet. I worked the valve in and out as best as I could and it seemed to be loosening up somewhat. Went to the discharge valve (I also have one of those clear attachments where I can see what is coming out) and noticed the flow was significantly less. A few more working the valve in and out and it stopped!
So, that suggested fix worked. I'm thinking that was on this forum a long time ago, so THANKS to whoever it was that suggested it.
Hope that will help someone else when they encounter this issue.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 7, 2017 14:10:42 GMT -5
I had a similar thing happen to my Durango (2012). The tank would literally siphon out the water when traveling. On one trip over a winding road I noticed a water trail whenever I would go around a left hand turn. I had brought 2 15 gallon water jugs as I was going to be dry camping. My level indicator said I had one third of a tank. Using the same system that johnr uses, I pumped almost all but a couple gallons from my jugs.
After some discussions with KZ I learned that they had attached the overflow hoses below the top of the tank. After 2 "fixes" my issue was resolved ... they put two overflow lines to the top of the tank and the outlets were about half way up the side of the camper.
Not saying that's your issue as it appears this is something new to you. But, yeah, without proper overflow set up you can certainly siphon the water out of you fresh tank.
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Post by joecamper on Aug 20, 2017 13:30:05 GMT -5
I don't see any photos
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Post by joecamper on Aug 5, 2017 15:51:55 GMT -5
Always good to hear the good guys did good!
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Post by joecamper on Jul 28, 2017 11:46:41 GMT -5
I do not have the "Ground Control 3.0 leveling system". My jacks are individually operated. Further, using your system of lifting the remaining good tire up on anything until the bad tire is up enough to change out puts all the weight on the single tire/axle ... also discouraged by Lipert ... possibly bending the single axle. My way of changing the tire lifts one tire off the ground leaving three others holding the weight. I have never seen anything on not using blocks to lift the flat. Unless you can jack the entire trailer, all 4 wheels, your going to place the extra weight on the wheels left. Jacking the entire one side puts all the weight on the opposing side two tires, so using your theory I guess you bend two axles using levelers. The bottom line is the manufacturer of the jacking system says DO NOT. One of the purposes of these forums is to teach so those reading do not damage equipment or get hurt, suggesting something the manufacture specifically says DO NOT DO, is in my opinion wrong. If you can direct me to something written that says not to use blocks I'll find another way. That said I'm done with this thread. Ok, I contacted Lippert directly and will agree with you that lifting is "discouraged" as if a jack were to fail, serious injuries could occur. However, they said that putting one wheel up on a block presents the same problem as using the jacks and "could" cause axle bending. Their response is that you should two bottle jacks on the frame, on both sides of the flat tire. So, according to Lippert, we are both wrong on how we should get the flat tire up high enough to change it. Just thought I should share Lippert's advice. Didn't mean to cause any problems.
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Post by joecamper on Jul 26, 2017 20:41:51 GMT -5
Sorry they built it so I'll follow recommendations. A stack of legos and I can change a tire without worry of damage to the leveling system or the unit falling down when a leg bends, hose breaks or any other system failure. www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Level_Up__Towable__Owners_Manual.pdfLippert Components Inc. recommends that a trained professional be employed to change the tires on the unit. Ensure that the unit is properly supported with jack stands, or other adequate devices, under the frame of the unit prior to commencing any service or repair procedure. Any attempts to change the tires or perform other service while unit is supported solely by the LCI Level-Up® with Automatic Leveling System could result in death, serious injury, unit or property damage. page 2 owners manual Ground Control 3.0 Owner's Manual: Failure to act in accordance with the following may result in death or serious personal injury. The use of the Ground Control 3.0 leveling system to support the unit for any reason other than which it is intended is prohibited by Lippert’s limited warranty. The Lippert leveling system is designed as a “leveling” system only and should not be used to provide service for any reason under the unit such as changing tires or servicing the leveling system. Any attempts to change tires or perform other service while unit is supported by the Ground Control 3.0 leveling system could result in death, serious injury or damage to the 5th wheel. I do not have the "Ground Control 3.0 leveling system". My jacks are individually operated. Further, using your system of lifting the remaining good tire up on anything until the bad tire is up enough to change out puts all the weight on the single tire/axle ... also discouraged by Lipert ... possibly bending the single axle.
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