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Post by joecamper on Sept 7, 2017 14:28:04 GMT -5
Not looking for a solution to sticking cable operated valves, but rather a solution that I read about on another forum that worked for me.
I had noticed my black tank's valve wasn't completely closing, as in no where near closing. I use an external valve so I was able to stop the tank from emptying. However, now I couldn't empty just the grey tank without sewer water coming out also. I had this issue when I first bought my Durango, so the dealer fixed it under warranty for me at the time. When I asked recently what it would cost to have this done again, it was going to be in the hundreds of dollars.
As I noted above, I had read someone suggesting getting some cheap cooking oil and that may lubricate the valve so that it works again. So off I went to Sam's club and bought a 4 1/2 gallon jug. Put the whole amount down the toilet. I worked the valve in and out as best as I could and it seemed to be loosening up somewhat. Went to the discharge valve (I also have one of those clear attachments where I can see what is coming out) and noticed the flow was significantly less. A few more working the valve in and out and it stopped!
So, that suggested fix worked. I'm thinking that was on this forum a long time ago, so THANKS to whoever it was that suggested it.
Hope that will help someone else when they encounter this issue.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 7, 2017 18:38:23 GMT -5
I wonder if the cooking oil might cause a problem later. I made replacement parts for a snack making machine and thought it would be a good idea to coat them with cooking oil to prevent rust. Since the parts nested together the customer needed to chisel them apart when the oil hardened. Lesson learned.
I have cable operated valves and just replaced them in the spring. I installed small diameter tubing and ran it along the cable so that I could shoot lubricant into the valve body. I bench tested the idea using silicone lube and that made the seal swell overnight and tighten on the shaft. Plain motor oil worked well.
The main problem with these valves is that the valve body (where the blade resides when open), is open to "material" and causes binding. Instructions for installing the valves say that they must not be below 90 degrees. My opinion is that it is a poor design and should be installed with the rod angled up as much as possible.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 7, 2017 21:12:09 GMT -5
As for as the oil might be a problem, I'm going to a camping spot next week and will do a thorough flushing which should take care of any hardening that might show up. I also plan on putting plenty of water along with a healthy dose of Dawn before I head out.
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Post by Chuck on Sept 11, 2017 13:03:09 GMT -5
Guys
This has been one of my worst nightmares, I am a guy who like grease zerts in everything so I can lube such.
I ask at the Kz rally about how do I lube the shafts enclosed in my trailer black an gray water values along
with the valves themselves, their answer was you can't, when bad replace them...
This just drives me up a wall, I am a maintenance try of guy an like to keep stuff lubed up so it operates
correctly when needed Ugh ...
We had a friend who had his rear gray water tank shaft freeze up, $200 later at the local RV dealer he had
it working again, he trailer was only 3 years old Ugh
The other thing that drives me up a tree is the small amount of water that comes out every time I go to
connect my sewer hose, I loosen the the sewer hose cap an there is always a couple of cups of water
in the pipe. I have now bought a small bucket an place under the pipe before I take the cap off, with the
old 5th wheel I never had this Ugh
Chuck
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 11, 2017 15:57:15 GMT -5
If you get the caps with a garden hose fitting, you can uncap that small outlet and have a small surprise rather than a big one. Those cable valves can fail to close at any time. I started carrying those absorbent bed pads and put one down. When all is finished, they are put in the final trash bag.
I also carry a Valterra twist on valve for emergency use, but that thing turned out to be a joke when it was needed. First, a valve should be installed with the handle above 90 degrees, but they were made so that it angles somewhat down. Second, it fit so loosely that it couldn't be trusted on the road. If you get one, test fit before before you need it, or better yet don't buy without a test fit.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 11, 2017 16:10:08 GMT -5
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 11, 2017 17:00:07 GMT -5
That's what I have. I took another look at it and saw what I missed. It can be loosened and rotated. Since I only tried it one time in an emergency situation, I didn't go any farther when it fit so loosely. I just now adjusted the angle and heated the ears so they could be bent in for a tighter fit. Thanks for the reminder and making me take a better look. |
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Post by joecamper on Sept 12, 2017 21:13:34 GMT -5
Hey, no problem. Always great to find out new stuff you don't know. At least, that seems to be what happens to me ... LOL
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Post by Chuck on Sept 12, 2017 22:52:02 GMT -5
joecamper Thank you for the link, had that valve in mind but just hadn't acted on getting one, maybe this week since we are going camping next week with our GS camping club  I have had the clear extension for a number of years an my sewer hose also has a clear elbow as well thus I can see it from both ends LOL Thanks again safe travels Chuck |
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