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Post by nvguy on May 27, 2023 22:07:43 GMT -5
I may be oversimplifying, but it doesn't look like anything special in there; luan plywood with some particle board. Biggest issue I could think of is getting material of the right thickness, as it could be possible MORryde has some items custom milled, but more likely is it's all standard dimension. It will be interesting to hear what MORryde has to say.
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Post by nvguy on May 26, 2023 23:08:55 GMT -5
I have used a graphite lock spray with good results.
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Post by nvguy on May 26, 2023 23:05:36 GMT -5
Have you tried calling MOR/Ryde? You don't want aftermarket, you are replacing an existing door. They may want to funnel your order thru a dealer. Also, do you have any pictures as to how the door is built?
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Post by nvguy on May 22, 2023 23:17:25 GMT -5
Darn, so it just sits on the supports? It **should** just drop out. Any chance there is some angle iron attached to the crossmembers / floor trusses.
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Post by nvguy on May 20, 2023 22:52:03 GMT -5
Sometimes the flanges are larger on one side than the other, have you tried lifting up, pushing either back or forward then trying to get one side to drop?
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Post by nvguy on May 20, 2023 21:53:25 GMT -5
We don't have a Connexx TV, but same as yours, picture is good but the sound on our TV is horrible, I think this is just typical of OEM (cheap) TVs. We bought a cheap sound bar, which improved things a bit. Aside from the TV itself I think a lot of it is TV audio isn't mixed for just TV speakers, they think everyone watches TV with multiple speaker surround sound systems. I say this because the TV we have at home (a Sony, much better quality than OEM) doesn't have great audio either.
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Post by nvguy on May 19, 2023 21:36:43 GMT -5
Check the strainer in the faucet, lots of time construction debris are left in the pipes and clog things up.
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Post by nvguy on May 18, 2023 22:38:33 GMT -5
Unfortunately this is the time we live in. I really don't think things get much better until you get to Prevost level. We have some friends with a mid 6 figure CL A and it's a mess. I guess you could try for another set of warranty latches and hope the powers of production variance smile on you. If the latch itself is OK, your dealer should have the key/ tool and switch out the cylinders.
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Post by nvguy on May 14, 2023 21:22:03 GMT -5
Welcome to the site, from a 318 RLT
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Post by nvguy on May 12, 2023 23:00:48 GMT -5
Sorry to see you go, but I understand, interests and life changes. We left the RV world, but came back. It just suits us.
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Post by nvguy on May 11, 2023 21:48:58 GMT -5
What I have found is the screws are driven thru the fabric, which then closes over the screw heads. With a bit of gentle probing you should be able to find them. Also, sometimes a philips will work but for best results you will probably need a number 2 square drive.
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Post by nvguy on May 11, 2023 21:42:04 GMT -5
As long as the tires are of the same load capacity you will be fine. Yes there may be some slight differences in their traction but we aren't pushing things to that extreme a level. Also, FWIW I have snagged my breakaway twice- both times pulling into the same campground,(I think their driveway is cursed) so it happens. luckily I didn't damage any tires.
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Post by nvguy on May 11, 2023 21:07:52 GMT -5
johnr Is there a way to do this specific test? The trailer was stopping pretty well all the way - I was in traffic at some point and then there was no traffic and then I drove and towed in the city, the brakes were responding pretty well. I have RedArc Pro Tow Liberty brake controller installed and I tried to push the controller know just to apply brakes on the trailer itself and that worked too. Doing this would be a good idea, as the trailer brakes will cause the trailer tongue to move down & increase the load on the rear of your tow vehicle, pushing it down, this may "unload" the front of your tow vehicle & reduce the effectiveness of the front brakes. You don't have to do a full on skid to a stop panic braking exercise, just try doing some aggressive braking from different speeds so you know what to expect. Ideally, you should be able to stop in roughly the same distance with the trailer as without, as the trailer should be able to stop itself. But electric brakes react differently than hydraulic brakes, another factor is how your brake controller is adjusted.
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Post by nvguy on May 7, 2023 22:56:20 GMT -5
Not to start an argument, but the screws are not sealed. It's not decorative, it serves to seal the molding. The official name for the stuff is insert molding and it comes in various thicknesses and quality. The better stuff is thicker and is less prone to shift around, so it fits into the aluminum molding much better. A good RV dealer will have insert molding or here is a link: link
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Post by nvguy on May 7, 2023 22:31:42 GMT -5
Years ago I bought aluminum rims for a car. I was getting new tires installed and one wheel they couldn’t balance no matter what without putting on pounds of weights. They removed tire and spun wheel alone. Turns out the wheel was defective. Got another and all was good. So it’s not just the tires that can be bad. For sure wheels can have heavy spots, especially aluminum wheels. For whatever reason the old "true spoke" wheels were notorious for that. This is one of the reasons why I tend to stick with OEM wheels, the aftermarket wheels can have erratic quality.
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Post by nvguy on May 7, 2023 0:23:42 GMT -5
In my coach, there is a anti-siphon valve behind the shower. You get to it thru an access port in the shower wall. There isn't a lot to that valve, you may also have a check valve built into the hose connection that could be sticking as well. Shower port:
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Post by nvguy on May 6, 2023 23:56:58 GMT -5
Exactly right, 6.5 oz on a tire this size is way to much. That happened to me on one of my trailer tires & having started my career busting tires, I told them to do the 180 degree trick, worked like a charm, down to an oz or so. It's foolish to not balance the tires on your RV. Also, FWIW, I haven't seen an RV that had a "good" place for a TP holder.
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Post by nvguy on May 4, 2023 23:24:00 GMT -5
All I can say is good luck and pay close attention to your tow vehicle & the hitch attachment points. If the doors start not closing or opening as they always did or you hear unusual clicks / groans or other new sounds get your vehicle inspected. As I said there is a reason why the U.S. model isn't rated for towing & it just isn't power.
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Post by nvguy on May 2, 2023 0:11:09 GMT -5
Exceeding manufacturers recommendations is never a good idea, as we all know there is a safety factor built in, but we don't know how much. One thing to keep in mind is crash standards are different for the U.S. VS the rest of the world, and this might be why the US model of your vehicle isn't approved for towing. Some bends or holes in the structure allow it to meet U.S. crash standards may weaken it for towing. Same thing with emission standards, it may overheat or overstress the drivetrain while towing. There are reasons why the U.S. model isn't recommended for towing. Moving things around to lessen tongue weight is going to be tricky, as two things cause sway; to much tongue weight and to little tongue weight. And lets not overlook you have only towed pop ups, not a lot of side surface area there. Get hit with a good cross wind and hang on. Based on all this I am going to assume that sway might be possible and since you're probably going to be exceeding the vehicle's capacity, any amount of sway will quickly get out of hand and it doesn't take a lot of imagination to figure out what happens next. Much as I don't want to discourage a sale for KZ, I don't think your proposed combination is safe
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Post by nvguy on Apr 26, 2023 23:56:53 GMT -5
That's exactly what I would do, as it's gonna get more dents over it's lifetime.
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