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Post by kaboom on Jul 21, 2018 11:01:14 GMT -5
Sorry I can't help with your issue, Other than to advise the obvious suggestions of calling your dealer or contacting KZ.
The Zero gravity ramp door came out on the next model year from mine. When I saw it I wished I had waited a year. Then my ramp door failed. I tried to get the Zero gravity instead of the old type even offered to pay the difference. Limpert who makes the doors advised that it would not work as the entire rear wall framing is different.
I know from experience that the factory puts fuses in some strange places. Example there are in line blade fuse's behind the bulkhead panels in the storage bay. Also our bedroom slide control panel is behind one of the above mentioned panels. So if I have a converter, heater, water pump or bedroom slide issue. I have to remove everything from the storage bay. Remove the panels and the access the fuses or control panel.
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Post by kaboom on Jul 12, 2018 15:35:53 GMT -5
X-9, run it on electric starting the night before we leave. Switch to propane for the trip and leave it on.
If it's really hot out I'll pull over and start the generator and turn the A/C on.
That way I can eat my ice cream before it melts. 😁
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Post by kaboom on Jul 9, 2018 23:20:36 GMT -5
You could also use a 30 & 20 to 50amp adapter.
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Post by kaboom on Jun 29, 2018 10:33:27 GMT -5
Congratulations on the new trailer and Welcome.
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Post by kaboom on Jun 23, 2018 15:18:42 GMT -5
Have a fun and safe trip.
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Post by kaboom on Jun 22, 2018 22:05:32 GMT -5
It turned out great. Nice job!
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Post by kaboom on Jun 15, 2018 23:26:27 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. Congratulations on the new Venom 3411. Not sure what the Venom Package consists of..
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Post by kaboom on Jun 8, 2018 9:55:55 GMT -5
You could also wrap the wiring with a rodent wrap or tape. Honda has a wrap part # 4019-2317. If you search that number on line numerous listings show up.
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Post by kaboom on Jun 7, 2018 23:22:34 GMT -5
I've used them in last three RVs. We use the picture hanging Command strips to secure the TV remotes, and satellite receiver. We have also used them to hang pictures and tin signs. So far they work very well.
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Post by kaboom on Jun 1, 2018 23:48:55 GMT -5
I repair rodent damaged wiring quite frequently Just repaired a "Victory" motorcycle last week. Little bugger chewed up all the wiring under the seat and inside the headlamp housing. He did leave acorns as gift.
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Post by kaboom on Jun 1, 2018 23:27:32 GMT -5
Couldn't hurt to ask. Maybe someone attending the rally could ask KZ about a disk brake option.
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Post by kaboom on May 29, 2018 10:06:54 GMT -5
Our Venom has a heat vent in the wall close to the door. Very little heat actually come out of the vent.
We either leave the door open or use a small electric heater with a fan and thermostat. Usually it is set to low and keeps the garage warm.
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Post by kaboom on May 22, 2018 23:28:50 GMT -5
Not a bad idea either. I've been busy and not had time to look at the shower.
Another benefit to the curtain is keeping the glass dry and clean.😀
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Post by kaboom on May 22, 2018 23:25:15 GMT -5
I decided to put a cheap spring loaded tension curtain rod across the top of the shower enclosure along with a cheap shower curtain. It works great, the water does not get in the tracks at all. I figured that would be better than me drilling holes in the track on a brand new trailer and making a mistake that I would be mad at myself for. It works for me and might be something that somebody else wants to try.
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Post by kaboom on May 20, 2018 12:10:11 GMT -5
Congratulations on the new Venom.
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Post by kaboom on May 20, 2018 12:00:22 GMT -5
Congratulations on the new Toy hauler.
On my past tongue pull toy hauler. I had to unhook from truck and raise the tongue to decrease the ramp angle. I also used the blocks under the ramp door method and then used another ramp to load and unload onto the ramp door. The problem with the last method is balancing on the ramp and then storage of the ramp.
With our current Venom 5th wheel, I use the ramp method. Just have to be careful on the back ramp. I'm tall so walking next to the bike works for me.
One piece of advice is look into "Wheeldock" wheel chocks. Just ride in step on lever and bike is held upright while you tie it down. To remove from chock you remove tie downs, step on another lever, sit on bike and roll backwards out of chock. No pulling or tugging like a "came over" style chock,(less chance of pulling handle bars loose in risers).
I also leave the bike in gear and use the clutch and front brake in combination to avoid the front wheel sliding on the ramp when backing down the ramp.
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Post by kaboom on May 10, 2018 23:42:27 GMT -5
kaboom, If you have the shower with the three glass sliding panels, I had the same issue. Those three drain slots are not cut down to the bottom of the sill track, there is about a 1/16" lip left on the track. What I did was I took a Dermal with a long narrow grinding stone and ground each of the three slots down to the bottom of the track, ones in the middle too. That left a U shaped slot about a quarter inch wide in the center of each slot then took a triangular file and filed each flat to the bottom of the sill. Painted the track to match and put a dab of silicone on the sill screw heads just to keep water from getting under them. Works now, no standing water. Here is a parts list from the manufacturer in case you ever need it. Happy Campin....
View Attachment
Yes it is the three panel glass shower doors. Using a Dremel to open up the drain holes is a good idea. I'll measure things this weekend and purchase a bit. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Post by kaboom on May 9, 2018 15:58:30 GMT -5
When we use the shower water remains in the three lower track rails. It just doesn't drain very well. The drains are open but the water sits in the bottom of the tracks for days depending on temperature.
Worried about mold or sloshing out onto floor. Hate spending 20 min on my knees trying to dry it out. It's hard to get a towel down into the track to dry it out.
Recently I tried using a couple of the foam paint brushes. Still took awhile and couldn't get it completely dry.
Maybe after using the shower I could stick some sponges in the tracks to absorb most of the water. Anyone have a suggestion.
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Post by kaboom on May 9, 2018 10:46:06 GMT -5
anybody have any experience with the Goosebox, be nice to not have anything but a gooseneck ball in the bed With the B&W turn over ball mount. You have the choice of either a gooseneck ball sticking up into bed or turn it over and have a recessed flat surface. Take the ball out and you have a square receiver hole that the Companion fifth wheel hitch mounts into.
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Post by kaboom on May 2, 2018 13:11:41 GMT -5
Chuck, have you tried dealing with the fireplace manufacturer directly. Maybe they would talk care of you.
I went through the same type of warranty issues. Limpert warranty was one year but KZ was two years. So I had to take it back to Dealer for inspection and photos. 8 hours round trip plus a day off work. Dealers Service department is closed Sun.& Mon. My days off.
Then wait for approval and parts to arrive at dealer. Then another 8 hours driving and another day off work. The job was not done right and I spent time and money to fix it myself, rather than drive back.
That's why most of the repairs that should have been warranty like, I did myself.
The RV industry as a whole has a warranty and repair system the is light years behind others such as auto,motorcycle ect.
The individual dealers are the key and most are terrible at customer service.
IMHO, your selling dealer should step up. They should do all the foot work, make the calls and send you a new remote. What's remote cost them?
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