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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 11:23:39 GMT -5
If they are vent pipes, they are connected at the top corner of the tank. If the trailer is reasonably level there is no such thing as a siphon.
If they are low point drains, are there valves inside the trailer?
When you said that you used a garden hose, was it screwed into the city water connection, or did you squirt it into a gravity fill port?
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 10:03:34 GMT -5
Probably vent (overflow) pipes from the fresh water tank. If you pressure fill, where does the water come out when full?
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 9:17:10 GMT -5
I agree with replacing the axle, I have come to learn that the 3500 lb. axle is a bad design and will NEVER buy another one, long story. The frame might be a problem, look at that skinny tongue. If it happens to have the 3 piece welded together "I-beams" they are junk.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 7:24:55 GMT -5
I may just buy new caps and have a local auto body paint shop prep and paint them. The funny thing is that only the brown ones are peeling. A can of Krylon Fusion spray paint is cheap, might last longer, and you will have it for future use. Many stores no longer carry it, but it is available online.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 7:18:44 GMT -5
You DO NOT want to buy another WFCO converter, call Best Converter for a quality, direct fit, 55 amp converter. Did you prove that the current converter is defective? The breaker appears to be correct. They should be available in 15/15, 15/20 & 20/20. I added a 20 amp circuit for an electric heater, something to consider.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 18, 2018 18:58:28 GMT -5
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 18, 2018 14:10:39 GMT -5
Remove as much of that mess as you can. Use a hair dryer to warm it and a dull plastic scraper. Clean with a rag moistened with mineral spirits. NEVER, EVER use silicone on the trailer anywhere. Use self-leveling caulk made for the roof. Dicor has some good videos and information on their website.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 18, 2018 13:35:56 GMT -5
You might want to get the installation manual by searching your model number of the converter. I think you are correct on the wires, but I can’t say for sure using this small phone.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 18, 2018 13:24:53 GMT -5
The converter changes 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC. That 12 volts is just a nominal figure and the actual voltage is higher. Since it charges the battery, 13.2, 13.6 & 14.4 volts are needed. When a battery is seriously discharged the converter should go to the highest voltage and step down as required. Many report that the cheap WFCO units never reach the 14.4 level. Usually the factory wiring is too small or too long and that too is a big part of the problem.
The age of the batteries is meaningless if they were not kept FULLY charged at all times, except during necessary use. They should never be discharged below 50% at any time. Now your 6 volt batteries will take a bit more abuse. You should have a battery switch to disconnect whenever the trailer is not connected to a running tow vehicle or to 120 volt power for any significant length of time.
The GFI circuit probably is most, if not all outlets in the unit. Unplug everything and don’t forget the one behind the refrigerator and the outside outlet. You could have a fault most anywhere on that system. I don’t like the outlets used in trailers and poor installation can have wires messed up on them. After you pull one out, you will see what I mean.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 18, 2018 10:02:52 GMT -5
If you decide to install a pump and make it right, there is a lot of things that you need to know. I can help you with that, but for now I will tell you that KZ never made it right and most of your water will spill onto the roadway. In addition, the bottom ten gallons can not be accessed. I did all those fixes and much, much more so let me know. I am interested in doing some boondocking in the future and having a working water tank is a key piece of that puzzle. If you have any resources regarding the work that needs to be done to get the water system functioning correctly, I'd love to look through them. I think your trailer had exactly the same system as mine. Here is my PhotoBucket album, hopefully it will work. There is a brief description when viewing each individual photo. I hate PhotoBucket and need to take the time to get out of there. If you can view the individual photos, between the miserable advertising, you will see much of what needs to be done. While viewing, jot down any questions and get back to me. PhotoBucket
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 18, 2018 7:19:30 GMT -5
Add another breaker for the converter, they are available at HD or Lowe's. If you get a double, you will have a spare breaker. The converter may be bad, or just a wiring problem with it. If you can power it up with everything else off, check the voltage at the battery, it should be 13.6 to 14.4. A bad battery can give the converter problems, so charge the battery completely with a stand alone charger and then take it to Advance Autoparts or AutoZone for free testing. If you need to replace the converter, no great loss, the WFCO that you have is cheap junk. Best Converter would give you great help selecting a quality converter and have fair pricing. I would still service the water heater. Annually, the anode rod needs to be removed, inspected and possibly replaced. Video Flush the tank while the anode is out. Video With the problems you have been having, I would pull the heating element as well and inspect it for damage. Elements are often damaged when the power is turned on without the tank being full of water. A partial or complete short between ground and neutral is possible. Video
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 17, 2018 18:56:02 GMT -5
If you decide to install a pump and make it right, there is a lot of things that you need to know. I can help you with that, but for now I will tell you that KZ never made it right and most of your water will spill onto the roadway. In addition, the bottom ten gallons can not be accessed. I did all those fixes and much, much more so let me know.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 17, 2018 7:57:27 GMT -5
You might want to give these folks a call even though they don't have the exact seal shown on the web site. link
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 17, 2018 7:52:43 GMT -5
The quality of full body paint can vary widely. A high end motorhome might have paint that is more durable than what the auto industry uses and you might get a disappointing job. Unless you know and understand all the details of the job, it is only a guess about what that 13 grand is buying.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 17, 2018 1:17:08 GMT -5
Look in the area of the water pump. Any idea where I might find that? I feel like I’ve torn this RV apart looking for it, and have had no luck. They wouldn’t put it between the road lining and the floor, would they? They never built two of these things alike, especially during the time yours was made. If you turn on the pump, if it exists, you should be able to hear it run. I didn't answer about the single pipe with a valve, that should be the tank drain. Your system should have a connection, controlled by a valve, between the city water inlet and the pipe going to the tank. You would open that valve till water flows from the vent pipes out the bottom. It looks like your system has been modified. I believe the usual place for the water pump is where you show the blue pipe in the storage area. It looks like there are some screw holes in the wall near that pipe, leading me to believe that the pump was removed by the previous owner. The hose to the tank would have gone down thru the same hole as the blue pipe. I'm only guessing here, but many trailer owners never use the onboard water system.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 16, 2018 17:59:48 GMT -5
OK, you have a pressure fill system. The red and blue pair are the hot and cold low point drains. The other pair are tank vents. You need to find the water valves and post the photos of them. Look in the area of the water pump.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 16, 2018 16:23:16 GMT -5
I just purchased a used 2011 250SD and am having a hard time figuring out how to fill its fresh water tank. Can you post a description on where to find those valves? Do you have a large cap where water can be poured in? Do you have an open ended hose in a storage area? Do you have a pair of vent pipes sticking out the bottom?
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 16, 2018 15:02:03 GMT -5
There is a lot of power in a bottle of propane. To replace that much power would take a lot of solar or generator time. The propane makes virtually no noise and the only real inconvenience is replenishing the supply. Of course a generator needs a fuel run as well, plus regular maintenance.
You need to make your best guess as to how you will operate the refrigerator and then weigh the pros and cons. Being tethered to a power cable is something that doesn’t fit my usage, but may not be an issue with you.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 15, 2018 13:06:38 GMT -5
It is my opinion that the time to check, clean, lube and adjust brakes is the day you bring it home. It is common knowledge that pumping grease in the fittings will only serve to push grease into the brakes. An extreme amount would be needed to fill the cavity and then come out thru the outer bearing, a couple of shots per year would take a lifetime to lubricate the outer brakes with grease that is now years old. My suggestion would be to never use the fitting or allow it to be used, and do proper service on a regular basis. link
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 15, 2018 12:42:22 GMT -5
As you are quickly learning, these things need to be owned by do it yourself types.
The sink plumbing was probably just not tightened properly. If you have water at the bath sink, then the toilet supply line should come off, directed into a container and then the water turned on briefly. If water comes out, there is probably construction debris in the inlet valve. If no water, then you need to track down the obstruction.
If the ladder was dealer installed it may not have framing in the wall to support it. I didn't see a factory option for a ladder, but I may have missed it. If the dealer punched holes in the rear wall to install the ladder, and there was no proper framing, there is no good repair since a Sonic trailer has a one piece panel from front to rear. Only the factory is qualified to do that repair.
Remember that returning frequently for warranty repairs will only have the same folks messing with the trailer, it's not worth the time, gas and aggravation. Personally, I have learned to forget about a warranty unless there is a very major problem.
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