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Post by lynnmor on Apr 24, 2018 7:05:55 GMT -5
Run the pump and listen.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 24, 2018 7:03:44 GMT -5
Look for the welding where the three pieces are put together, if you see it move on.
The problem with salt is that RV's built in Indiana from Nov. thru Mar., might have been driven on salted roads and look like the photo immediately. There is no way to paint a frame where it meets the body, salt will stay in there. I stay off the road when salted and protect the suspension with Fluid Film.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 23, 2018 18:29:59 GMT -5
I'm not sure what you are asking. That photo appears to me to be the 1/8" welded up piece of junk, but can't quit be sure from the photos. The rusted up mess is why you don't want to buy a trailer that was driven in salt covered roads, that rusting cannot be completely stopped because the salt will be trapped in areas that can't be washed. I would never consider a trailer that is so frail that water tanks can't be filled.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 23, 2018 18:13:20 GMT -5
I had AAA for many years but dropped them since they don't do RV's in my area. I use Coach-Net now. I wonder how AAA might perform when someone needs service in an area that doesn't participate.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 22, 2018 16:43:39 GMT -5
If the trailer lights work correctly, that would rule out the ground connection. After checking ground, then you have an intermittent problem with the brake wiring on the trailer. Start at the plug and continue back to the axles. Often wires that go thru axles wear inside. Continue from the axle tube to the brake magnets. Etrailer has some good advice on their website.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 21, 2018 13:23:49 GMT -5
Thanks. Will get the element and tool in the afternoon. I ordered the rod but won't come in until next Tuesday. So, is that okay if I replaced the element (without turning on the heater) and test if the GFI socket tripping? Also, when removing the element, would that be any water coming out? Thanks. You will need to drain the water heater. Some will drain most of the water out if you open the low point drains under the trailer and flip the lever on the T&P valve. Others will hold most of the water till you remove the element and the anode rod and let it rip. One hint is to make sure that the water heater housing is sealed to the wall with caulk so that water doesn’t get between. Camco sells a flushing wand, that fits on a garden hose, to stick in the anode hole for better debris removal.
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3500# axle
Apr 21, 2018 10:31:35 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lynnmor on Apr 21, 2018 10:31:35 GMT -5
Mine were bent form new, I suspect dealer did it, because he hosed me and I replaced at my expense. So much fo a warranty!
Since the 3500 lb axles have no usuable shoulder to locate the inner bearing and the axle tubes are paper thin, I will never own another one. You should have upgraded to 4400 lb axles even though theoretically you don’t need them, but even they have the same bearing issue.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 20:48:04 GMT -5
Should be fine.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 18:23:20 GMT -5
Elements are as basic as light bulbs, a local hardware store should have what you need along with the socket, no need to overthink this. The most common failure comes from turning on the water heater without sufficient water in it and the element will fail in seconds.
Anode rods will last months to years depending on the impurities in the water. I need to replace almost every year. They are available on eBay for a low price. A magnesium rod will give the most protection, it’s just a metal rod and brand doesn’t matter. After flushing, clean the tank threads and use Teflon tape on the rod threads, do not over tighten, the tank is aluminum and easy to damage. To get the threads started, use a socket with an extension for a handle. Placing some paper towel over the socket and pushing in the anode will hold it in place making it much easier to get it started. Be sure that it turns in a number of turns by hand before using the socket wrench.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 16:58:57 GMT -5
Got to a hardware store or home center and buy a 120 volt, 1400 to 1500 watt element. Buy the cheaper element socket, it has more clearance than the expensive one. Unless it is corroded in place, it is very easy to screw it out and the new one in. It doesn’t matter which wire connects to the terminals.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 16:50:31 GMT -5
Color of wires can be opposite of what makes sense. Find the battery cable that is connected to the frame, that is the one that connects to the negative (-) post.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 15:47:06 GMT -5
The bottom photo with circular thing with two wires is the element. Just remove the wires, protect the ends and retest. The cover I mentioned is missing.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 11:40:10 GMT -5
A belly full of water would be much worse than a small puncture. With all the gaps at the edges, that tiny hole would not matter at all. Of course a piece of Gorrila tape can be used to reseal it. Other than water problems, tank mounting can break loose, so if the sagging is worrisome, better to check now than have an emergency on the road.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 4:32:09 GMT -5
A battery takes at least 10 hours to fully charge with the typical home charger. A fully charged battery will read 12.8 volts, I guess that you checked the voltage with the charger or converter connected.
To be more clear, remove the black plastic cover over the water heater element. Remove both wires. Retest.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 4:18:48 GMT -5
It’s to the point that you need to see where those pipes are connected. Water cannot rise up from below the vent pipe level and decide to go out the pipes. It must be just another one, of tens of thousands, that KZ did wrong.
Many units were built with the vents pipes attached at the top corner of the tank and ran straight down and out the bottom. With this type, water would fill normally and stay in the tank as long as you didn’t take it on the road. Every time you went around a curve water would spill (not siphon) out of the vent pipes. When you got to the campground, little or nothing was left. The fix was to route the vents up and out of the trailer well above tank level.
With your system there is something more going on. Don’t think for a minute that is was properly designed or installed. You can expect anything with the way these things are thrown together. Try to get an eye on the pipes and take a photo if you can. Personally, I have spent more quality time laying under the trailer than in the bed.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 21:07:23 GMT -5
Like the subject line says. Do you run the fridge on propane while travelling? Concerns? GD Of course, otherwise your ice cream will melt. You should turn it off while pumping gasoline because of the fire hazard.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 21:02:06 GMT -5
Apparently the breaker didn’t trip with the battery disconnected since you were able to measure voltage. Let’s see if that battery charges up., it should measure about 12.7 when charged. Then take it to AutoZone or Advance Autoparts for a free load test. A battery that is bad can put an excessive load on the converter. With a proven good and charged battery back in, the voltage should be 13.6 with the converter operating.
At least pull the wires off the water heater element and retest, both ways as you previously have been doing.
Be sure that everything is unplugged from all outlets and retest the GFI problem. The outlets are daisy chained and troublesome to disconnect and reconnect wires, but you may have to take your best guess as to where to start.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 18:38:02 GMT -5
The other pipes, that you believe to be low point drains, do they have valves? Did you look inside to see if there are valves for the set that is draining? The air venting out might be coming from the water heater? In order to set up a siphon, the vent pipes would need to extend to the bottom of the tank, but any I have seen are just attached at the top corner. One thing that I do know for sure is that KZ doesn’t have a clue about water systems. Ask me how I know.
If all else fails, you might need to expose the water tank and see what is going on.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 12:23:14 GMT -5
I wasn’t clear, was the garden hose screwed to the trailer or did you squirt it in a larger open port?
If you connected, and opened a valve to send the water to the tank, you better have a vented tank. It is normal to fill till water flows from the vents.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 19, 2018 11:32:04 GMT -5
Yes, they use that axle on many trailers and folks call me crazy when I point out an obvious flaw. It is hard to push for improvements when folks defend the status quo.
Be aware that adding weight to the rear can result in sway issues. Be sure that you have 10 to 15 % of the total trailer weight on the coupler. The bumpers are usually rated for 100 lbs. so it might need to be beefed up. I still think the tongue is wimpy.
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