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Post by lynnmor on Apr 15, 2018 9:09:13 GMT -5
Questions, put a 20A GFI on a 15A breaker circuit, is this any good? If you are talking about an outlet, it won't hurt anything, but likely will not cure the problem.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 15, 2018 9:02:56 GMT -5
On outside walls, KZ usually installs thin steel sheet metal just under the paneling. Get a strong magnet and try to find that sheet metal in the area above the window. Outline the limits with masking tape and then install your mount within the boundaries using sheet metal screws.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 14, 2018 20:00:18 GMT -5
The reset button isn’t the problem and it probably will make no click unless it tripped, so normal.
I can’t see where the wires split to go one way to the converter and the other way to the water heater, but it must be in that rat nest somewhere. Find it and connect one at a time for testing.
That damaged wire appears to be a slash job from the Amish craftsmen, check that mess carefully. Did you know that Amish have no electric or plumbing in their own homes? I have seen too much of this shoddy workmanship.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 14, 2018 19:11:00 GMT -5
Bad news! I turned off the heater switch. Then connect the coach to shore power with all breakers off. Both combos (30A and heater) and (30A and GFI) still tripped. I start digging into the wiring but so far didn't see anything surprised. Of course I couldn't see those wires hiring under or inside of the trailer. What is next? What else I can do? Since the system works on other garage outlets, are they perhaps protected with a 20 amp breaker, and the 15 you are having trouble with might not be quite enough? Remove the front cover so that you can see the wires going to the breakers. Remove one wire at a time (3 wires total} that goes to the suspect circuits. Since the converter and water heater are supposedly wired to one 20 amp breaker, there may be a wire nut to combine the two, but who knows. Retest again and hopefully we can narrow down the faulty circuit. It still concerns me that the water heating element might have the neutral shorted to ground. Pull both wires off the element and retest. It also concerns me that the converter and the water heater are shown to be on one breaker, both are high load items and this is crazy. You should be able to verify if indeed it is wired that way when you have the cover off. The converter will draw considerable power when the battery is discharged and pulling that wire will tell us if that load is part of the problem.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 14, 2018 14:55:39 GMT -5
This winter I had water dripping most anywhere just one day when there was a drastic change in temperature and humidity. This happened even though it was stored inside my pole barn. Even my truck dripped so much that most of the concrete floor below it was wet. Condensation occurs when the dew point is met. When a very cold vehicle is quickly exposed to warmer moist air, the dew forms. Hopefully that is all you are dealing with and not plumbing issues.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 14, 2018 7:42:40 GMT -5
The heating element is behind the plastic cover, a special socket and elements are available at hardware and hone centers. It takes a 1400 to 1500 watt, 120 volt element. That plug at the bottom is an anode rod, remove it, flush the tank and replace the anode if worn. Never turn on power to a water heater till the tank is full as witnessed by opening a faucet and running water till all air is expelled, do this every time water supply has been disturbed.
Since the water heater and the converter are on the same 20 amp breaker, that could cause the tripping in one of your breaker tests. I would add breakers, again available at home centers, and give the converter and water heater their own circuits. A double breaker is available and that will give you a spare for future expansion. The 15 amp gfi test you did, still might be a water heater issue depending on how the element faulted. Rerun your breaker test as before after checking the water heater element and separating the converter to its own circuit.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 13, 2018 8:50:13 GMT -5
The only other thing on the slides is there is a manual retract/extend on them, find out how it works, just in case. I had one fail and found a bad motor ground. Simple fix but took a bit to find it. Happy camping View AttachmentWhere can I find the manual retract/extend? The previous didn't know too... Some models have a shaft that you rotate with the jack crank. The shaft will be on the side opposite the slide and is accessed either below the siding or thru a hole in the side.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 13, 2018 8:46:25 GMT -5
Remove the water heater cover, report back with the brand and model number of the water heater.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 12, 2018 19:55:03 GMT -5
That frame guard in not a problem.
Now if the water heater has an electric heating element, it should not be on the same breaker as the converter. Please report back and tell us if it has a electric heating element. If you are not sure, post the brand and the model number. If it is a gas only model, there is very little load on the breaker and should not be a problem.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 11, 2018 20:05:36 GMT -5
Oh yeah, the previous owner said he replaced the water bump. I guess he did it by himself. It could be possible that he did something wrong. What should I check? The water pump is 12 volt and should have nothing to do with your problem. Did you do the breakers one at a time like nvguy suggested?
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 10, 2018 8:42:04 GMT -5
That's why I am thinking an alternative, which is re-welded with a thicker 4x4 steel tube. Any comment on that? You saw the second link in my previous post. A thicker bumper is a heavier bumper adding to the frame problem. The real answer is to forget adding weight back there and find a way to haul weight over the axle in the trailer or in the tow vehicle. You might get away with carrying weight back there or you may not, but if it fails I don't want to be the one suggesting it will work.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 10, 2018 8:26:42 GMT -5
The most ignorant thing I ever saw at a National Park/Monument was at Devil's Tower. Apparently the Park Service allowed a paint ball event to take place there and the whole darn park looked like the projects in Philadelphia. I was disgusted with that ignorance.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 10, 2018 8:20:37 GMT -5
Good advice from nvguy. If there is a problem with the wiring, you can get a hot skin condition where touching metal on the RV while standing on the ground can give a dangerous shock. Till you get to the bottom of this, place a rubber mat at the door, don't touch the RV until tested for voltage to ground, and be careful.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 9, 2018 13:55:08 GMT -5
You will have much more weight added than the 300 lbs quoted. Water alone will be more than that. I would think that you should plan on 9,000 lbs. That will be 1,125 lbs of coupler weight, add 100 lbs for the hitching. You didn't state the payload for your truck but it is probably around 1,800 lbs. If that is the case, that leaves you 575 lbs for people, luggage and whatever. Cheap hitches work OK if you adjust the sway control properly, few people do and throw money at an expensive hitch that takes the user out of the equation. The Hensley type hitch hitch that Chuck mentioned is reported to be the best available, but serious money.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 9, 2018 13:29:22 GMT -5
The reason for the bumper cannot hold weight, is that because the joint between the frame and bumper? Or the 4x4 bumper itself? What if I replaced the 4x4 bumper by some thicker material? I planned to add more batteries at the hitch to balance it, to prevent wheelie. [/quote] The welds holding the bumper can fatigue and break. The bumper tubing is thin and it can tear out where it is attached. This product can help, but some frames are rather thin and, in my opinion, the attachment should go forward some distance. If I wanted to do something like that, I would make my own. What the guy isn't telling you is that the bolt at the bottom is only a pivot and the bolt at the top has considerable shear stress. I know that my Spree has an incredibly weak frame and I would not add anything heavier than paint. With that weight dancing back there, this is what can happen some distance forward with only a spare tire.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 9, 2018 7:29:01 GMT -5
You cannot rely on any published weights, some are lies, some are guesses and a few might be correct. Here is a page to help you: linkThe rear bumpers are marginal with just the spare, I wouldn't add any weight to it. Remember that any weight added on the rear reduces hitch weight. If hitch weight is too low, sway can happen and with the added weight mass being far back is even worse. link
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 9, 2018 7:15:01 GMT -5
I think that traveling on the ragged edge makes for a miserable trip. I wouldn't even consider using a 1/2 ton tow vehicle for that trailer. While you might be able to manipulate the numbers to barely meet the tow vehicle specifications, you should consider wind, crazy traffic and service life of the truck.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 7, 2018 9:02:58 GMT -5
The Connect 241rl has nitrogen filled tires. Do most run a TPMS on their trailers? Any recommendations? The nitrogen is basically a joke, air is about 80% nitrogen. Keeping the cold inflation pressure correct is important and running around with tires needing air, all the while warming them, to find a nitrogen makes no sense. I have the TST 507 TPMS with the standard sensors. link A repeater was needed to keep reliable input. Without a TPMS, you might not know there is a problem until you see debris or smoke in the mirror. I had a screw in a tire and the system alerted me saving that day.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 7, 2018 8:47:26 GMT -5
There is not much adjustment as you learned. Perhaps you can shim or file as needed to get better operation.
I always lock the deadbolt when traveling. Unless things have changed, the lock in the handle can be opened with a master key and the deadbolt needs the proper key. Get in the habit of using the deadbolt for better security.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 4, 2018 8:10:25 GMT -5
I have never seen a pressure washer clean as well as hand washing. If there was an advantage to using one perhaps this could be debated but for me, I'll use the brush. I use No. 7 car wash and for heavy cleaning, I use Reliable Products.
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