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Post by joecamper on Oct 26, 2013 12:42:30 GMT -5
I once posted an issue I had with our Durango and someone from KZ inquired if I had solved my issue through my local dealer ... so at least at that point they were monitoring it.
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Post by joecamper on Oct 25, 2013 13:35:18 GMT -5
LOL. Following this topic reminds me of how I ended up with what I have now. Had an Isuzu Trooper, bought a popup camper. Weak. Traded Trooper for Chevy 1/2 ton, one of the older ones with a weak 350, but it pulled the popup ok. Traded the popup for a small pull behind with a small slide out. Truck now not enough, so traded it up for a newer GMC 1/2 ton. Now got plenty of truck for the camper, but we decide we needed a bigger camper again. Bought a 2004 GMC DMax. Now too plenty truck, so traded the pull behind for our Durango. Now I think we're about even, enough truck and plenty camper (or as my friends like to call it, our mobile apartment). If we have to upgrade again, I'm in BIG trouble! LOL.
Off of my lil soap box
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Post by joecamper on Oct 23, 2013 12:20:43 GMT -5
Mine has been fixed. The above "fix" did not work, but the new one did. They put a "horse shoe" vent up pretty high up on the unit and that solved the issue. Here is a pic of the vent: The vent is between the hot water heater and "garage" storage door.
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Post by joecamper on Oct 23, 2013 12:05:55 GMT -5
I don't have any specific knowledge about your trailer or bumper, but many failures have occurred when adding things like bike racks etc to the typical 4" square tube bumpers on travel trailers. IF you decide to add a rack, I'd suggest you weld or bolt to the trailer frame somehow and not to the bumper itself. The small Honda generators are only 53 pounds, but that can exert a lot of force bouncing down the road. I believe your owner's manual will recommend not adding anything to the bumper as well. The other concern I'd have is making sure the generator stayed on the rack while traveling down the road. The rack location so far out of view would also be a target for thieves and/or vandals. X2. If you really want to do this, have the bumper reinforced. Here is what I had done to my Durango:
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Post by joecamper on Oct 19, 2013 11:24:44 GMT -5
Hey, I'm here! I visit at least once a day, usually a couple times. I find that just checking others comments I learn lots, in addition to occasionally help someone out.
See, you're not alone .....
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Post by joecamper on Oct 16, 2013 13:15:20 GMT -5
You shouldn't have any issues. When we aren't using ours, it sits in the sun and that's when it gets really hot inside.
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Post by joecamper on Oct 15, 2013 12:20:07 GMT -5
Note that the 3M stuff works really great, but doesn't tolerate real high temps. I, too, have them all over my camper, but when it sits in 90+ degree temps (way warmer inside) they tend to fail, especially if the side they are on is in direct sunlight.
Just my 2 cents.
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Post by joecamper on Oct 8, 2013 12:35:07 GMT -5
The other good thing about Goodyear is that they will stand behind their tires ... replace tires and repair damage.
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Post by joecamper on Oct 2, 2013 11:27:54 GMT -5
Ok, the heater is still not working correctly. Stopped during the night and the only fix was the off/on procedure.
I have another unrelated issue, so it's going back again. I think I'm going to try and politely recommend they just replace the heater. They've had two shots at it now and it's really annoying to wake up to 45 degrees because it stopped running and didn't restart.
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Post by joecamper on Sept 3, 2013 20:31:30 GMT -5
Ok, update. I got the camper back today. Haven't had a chance to test the heater yet, but am reserving a camping spot for next week.
They told me there were two issues. I'm going to believe they tested it, as the thermostat was set at 87 when I got it home! Anyway, they said the delivery of propane was not quite what it should be and that there was oil in the propane regulator (sounds like related issue). They replaced the regulator.
I will update after the camping trip next week.
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Post by joecamper on Aug 13, 2013 20:57:31 GMT -5
Thanks, Roger. I sent an email to Suburban and got a reply back pretty quick, I was impressed. Their suggestion pretty much mirrors yours. They said they aren't allowed to suggest fixes on propane "appliances" to end users, but that most likely it is a hard shutdown by one or more sensors. I printed out their response and will take it with me to the dealer next week.
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Post by joecamper on Aug 8, 2013 10:19:43 GMT -5
I have a Durango, so not sure if our systems are the same. When I want to "flush" our our black tank, I have to attach a hose to a intake valve marked for that purpose. Then turn on the water. I have a clear attachment that shows how clear the water is and just watch to see when it gets pretty clear. WARNING! Do not leave water connected for an extended period of time without opening the drain valve, if you fill the tank to capacity, that water has to go somewhere ... boom ... "you know what" will come out a vent or maybe just rupture the tank. I generally put water in for just a couple minutes then open the drain. Just repeat that for a few minutes.
I don't have an answer for how you're getting water in the fresh tank. Not possible with our system.
As for the decals, about the only way to obtain decals is through a KZ dealer going through KZ.
Enjoy your camper!
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Post by joecamper on Aug 7, 2013 17:20:48 GMT -5
Yeah, just weird. I already have an appointment for a different issue (minor), but we won't be back from this trip until next week. Sure glad it's under warranty still.
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Post by joecamper on Aug 7, 2013 10:38:53 GMT -5
Ok, this is a pretty weird thing, but hoping somebody has heard of it or something close.
Our heater works great ... most of the time. The issue was thermostat ... or so I thought. It's been cool where we are at, so have the thermostat set at 63 for night. The heater comes on when it needs to. Then ... maybe on the next start up or maybe a couple later, it doesn't run. The only way I can get it to start back up is to put the thermostat switch to off and then back to on. Then it operates "normal" ... sometimes. Always starts back up, but eventually it will fault.
I thought it was the thermostat, so bought a really nice digital one. Same thing. So, it's not the thermostat. When this first happened, I included it in the list of issues we had with the unit, but the dealer obviously couldn't find anything wrong (BTW, very few issues and dealer fixed all our list, which was pretty short). I think the only way this can be duplicated is to live in it where it's pretty cool or even cold.
So, anybody have any body have any ideas. I'm thinking either the control board for the heater or the heater itself.
Oh, we have a 2012 325RL, and the heater is a Suburban.
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Post by joecamper on Jul 29, 2013 9:14:26 GMT -5
X chocks do a great job helping with that. They are like screw jacks that go between the tires. Really stop lots of the motion.
But, you'll probably never stop all of the motion. Just my 2 cents.
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Post by joecamper on Jul 22, 2013 12:53:13 GMT -5
Just to be clear, you are right, the dealer should have never told you it was ok to tow nose high. Didn't mean to sound uncaring or anything.
Good luck with your Durango, I sure love mine.
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Post by joecamper on Jul 21, 2013 10:49:34 GMT -5
I agree with shortlance. It's not the dealer's job to make sure you tow level, unless you made that part of the purchase agreement. I know you didn't want to hear that, but that's the way it works. Most newer trucks have higher beds/bedrails and your situation is unfortunately very common.
The other items the dealer should take care of. If not, contact KZ directly ... they really are good guys to deal with.
My 2 cents.
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Post by joecamper on Jun 21, 2013 11:49:08 GMT -5
Good to hear from you. Glad you got that capture plate and everything figured out. Hope you're enjoying your Durango.
Thanks for that tip on the detergent. I'll definitely give that a try.
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Post by joecamper on Jun 18, 2013 11:46:15 GMT -5
The seals should remove the water when the slide moves in. I see your rig is new. I would take it back to the dealer to correct it now. It will only get worse I would think and having a history on file is important. A good dealer will fix it and then you shouldn't have any more issues.
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Post by joecamper on Jun 18, 2013 11:40:46 GMT -5
Don't trust the sensors. I have the same 5er and the same issue. I've read that the sensors need a little time to "dry out" in order to be accurate, but I don't trust them no matter what. I "think" my tanks are empty (I use a clear elbow attachment to watch the flow). I "know" the full sensors show full when there's no way they are full and rarely show empty when they are truly empty also.
Just my 2 cents.
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