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Post by joecamper on May 20, 2014 10:32:53 GMT -5
The first thing I would check is the fuses. And, dirty or corroded fuse holders would also make this happen, to both your items.
You may have to check behind the converter panel.
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Post by joecamper on May 16, 2014 11:29:13 GMT -5
FWIW, My 2013 Durango 325's spare wheel/tire use the same lug nuts. You're right, if that was different it sure would be an unwelcome issue.
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Post by joecamper on May 15, 2014 11:42:30 GMT -5
Not knowing anything about your camper, I'll bet that the dish on the roof has the connections you need. You will probably have to figure out how to access the connections on the roof.
Just a thought.
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Post by joecamper on Apr 21, 2014 10:59:34 GMT -5
Nice rig! Both the camper and your truck!
Enjoy!
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Post by joecamper on Apr 15, 2014 12:38:39 GMT -5
X2 on the practice backing up. Went to my 5er two and half years ago after pulling TT for 10 years. I'm just now starting to "get it".
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Post by joecamper on Apr 8, 2014 13:12:06 GMT -5
I am a commercial driver, so I get a bit anal about towing as correctly/safely as possible. There's nothing wrong with that!
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Post by joecamper on Apr 7, 2014 11:07:39 GMT -5
If it were me, I'd use the standard hitch in the receiver and pull the camper somewhere that is level. The camper would be "close enough" to not be an issue. Then you can take your measurements and get what you need to make it "right". You may get lucky and it will be just fine with the standard hitch. When I had my tow behind with my '04 GMC 3/4 ton, could tow with the standard straight receiver.
But, that's just me ....
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Post by joecamper on Mar 27, 2014 13:26:43 GMT -5
It was in my Durango owner's manual.
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Post by joecamper on Mar 26, 2014 12:03:07 GMT -5
I'm not having any issues. Do you click on "remember me"? Do you have cookies enabled? Those things can help.
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Post by joecamper on Mar 26, 2014 12:01:34 GMT -5
X2. You can turn off the alarm, but not do away with the light. Once you put some water in the fresh tank, the light will go off.
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Post by joecamper on Mar 18, 2014 13:07:52 GMT -5
I doubt that there are many hot water heaters with thermostats anymore. Haven't seen one in quite a while.
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Post by joecamper on Mar 12, 2014 14:01:59 GMT -5
you might need to give kz a call they just had a recall on some other locks with the same problem The lock recall is for camper doors, not the storage access. Quite a bit different.
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Post by joecamper on Mar 7, 2014 16:25:16 GMT -5
if you buy a higher load range and keep properly inflated tires Chinese tires are just fine A lot of users on many online forums would disagree with you. I got two years out of my "China Bombs", but I replaced them, which gave me a higher degree of "piece of mind". My "China Bombs" constantly lost air pressure (I have a TPMS) and I watched them closely. My 2 cents.
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Post by joecamper on Feb 16, 2014 23:25:20 GMT -5
I know on my Durango I have a manual way to open/close the slides. Usually a "bolt" type head under where the slide is.
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Post by joecamper on Nov 28, 2013 14:16:40 GMT -5
I know, I know! I have a 2012 Durango 325RL, but I'll bet our panels are similar. They make one main panel for numerous different trailers. Simply put, the switch is not needed. Just put it on Main Tank. You're right, there is only one tank. I was as confused as your were and asked KZ.
Joe
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Post by joecamper on Nov 23, 2013 14:31:21 GMT -5
At last, at last ... the heater has been fixed. The dealer tried all kinds of stuff to get it running and finally called Suburban and talked to them. The heat "hoses" that came from the heater and go to the camper's duct work had some pretty sharp bends in them and they "straightened" the hoses. They also connected an additional 2" hose that simply dumps into where the water heater is. Finally (we had a really nice long chat and on site explanation of everything) he noted that the sliding panel that's between the heater and the "garage" might be blocking the intake of air for the heater. He suggested leaving the panel slightly open. I think I will probably put some sort of vent device so as to stop any critter attacks (we don't currently have critter issues ... but you never know). Now I'm "Joe Happy Camper".
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Post by joecamper on Nov 13, 2013 12:48:45 GMT -5
If you have power to the trailer and propane, why not run the furnace (set at 50-55 degrees)on the overnights when the real cold is predicted? I did this in central New York the last week before we left for Florida. I didn't think the heater would run off of a 110V plug. I'll have to check into that as that would sure have solved my issue. Thanks for helping out the newbie! Jeff The heater runs on 12v, but when plugged in it runs off the inverter (so to speak). So, that's a really good suggestion for those times when needed. I'll be in your area in December. My situation a bit different. I've already winterized my camper (in Colorado), so I have to travel with it that way until I get to Texas at which point I'll stop in a park and get it set back up. Then in January when we return, I'll have to do the opposite somewhere along the way. Miss Texas, but LOVE Colorado.
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Post by joecamper on Nov 12, 2013 13:52:13 GMT -5
Don't know where you are, but for the most part, you shouldn't have a problem with just below freezing. My own experience says that usually there is no problem with 28 or so degrees as long as it doesn't stay there for an extended time. If your camper sits out in the sun, so much the better. I think campers can handle lower than that, but I don't want to be the guinea pig!
Have a Durango, so can't help with location of drain valves, etc. Our dealer here in Grand Junction does "drive through" winterizing, so I watched every step so I could do it myself from now on. I always did my pull behind before, it's really not all that difficult.
Good luck with your trip!
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Post by joecamper on Nov 11, 2013 13:47:49 GMT -5
Like the cardboard between the window and the blind to keep the UV rays from working and fading the blinds. Good Idea!!! X2 ... great idea!
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Post by joecamper on Nov 7, 2013 13:41:39 GMT -5
I always leave my curtains closed, would rather have to replace curtains than furniture due to the sun. As for condensation, we just don't get that here in dry Colorado, so can't comment on that. I do leave a vent just barely cracked, so maybe that makes a difference.
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