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Post by Edd505 on Apr 23, 2020 19:59:33 GMT -5
Ordered the Performance Braking kit and going to self install while we are in lock down. Just back to the house, been out since 1/15 so I'll have some time here. I'll post as I do the install, anyone done one and have tips?
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 24, 2020 8:46:59 GMT -5
If the kit came with Chinese bearings, replace them with Timken.
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Post by laknox on Apr 24, 2020 12:58:22 GMT -5
Ordered the Performance Braking kit and going to self install while we are in lock down. Just back to the house, been out since 1/15 so I'll have some time here. I'll post as I do the install, anyone done one and have tips? Never even seen one, but have read plenty of threads about installs. Couple things that I've picked up; if you don't have one, get a good pipe bender; if there are any non-steel lines (other than at the wheels), ditch them and go with steel all the way. Lyle |
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Post by Edd505 on Apr 25, 2020 20:57:16 GMT -5
Never even seen one, but have read plenty of threads about installs. Couple things that I've picked up; if you don't have one, get a good pipe bender; if there are any non-steel lines (other than at the wheels), ditch them and go with steel all the way. Lyle One of the questions I asked, all lines are ready for install & come rolled, unroll and install flares are already done. Pads are GMC for replacement. We'll see as this progresses. |
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Post by jetzen on Apr 26, 2020 19:51:01 GMT -5
Never even seen one, but have read plenty of threads about installs. Couple things that I've picked up; if you don't have one, get a good pipe bender; if there are any non-steel lines (other than at the wheels), ditch them and go with steel all the way. Lyle One of the questions I asked, all lines are ready for install & come rolled, unroll and install flares are already done. Pads are GMC for replacement. We'll see as this progresses. I watched them do the upgrades at the rally, to me it seemed pretty straightforward. All the lines are cut to length and double flared. There did not seem to be any wasted materials as far as brake lines being overly long. |
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Post by laknox on Apr 27, 2020 11:38:47 GMT -5
OK. I guess I'm recomembering from a good while back, when a lot of the kits just came with X feet of line and you had to bend and flare everything.
Lyle
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Post by jetzen on Apr 27, 2020 12:40:30 GMT -5
OK. I guess I'm recomembering from a good while back, when a lot of the kits just came with X feet of line and you had to bend and flare everything. Lyle I would imagine different manufactures kit parts vary. Performance Trailer Braking manufacturer and install their own brand which is Titan. They also make a DIY kit. Performance Trailer Braking are one of the sponsers/vendors at the rally, a couple years back they did kbrady's (site member) Venture with a suspension upgrade and disc brakes. The trailer was in the site next to mine and I had the pleasure of watching them do the install. After asking alot of questions I came away with the impression that there were two hardware packages. one with the correct caliper, rotor, pump, bracketry, bearings, seals to match the gvw and axles and a second kit that matched wiring and brake lines for the approximate length and type of trailer. I doubt that all the lines and wiring will be the exact length but be close/slightly longer to cover multiple trailer applications. |
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Post by Edd505 on Apr 27, 2020 20:54:24 GMT -5
Multi Emails with questions until I ordered, they also had an installer available about 250 miles away in AZ. With the lock down I decided to head home & do it myself where I had tools & equipment. They wanted very specific info when I ordered, RV type, model, year, axle maker, size, serial number, (photos of axle tags) TV type, built in controller of after market. I learned I have 7K axles and for $64 I could upgrade to 8K that the only difference was the wheel studs are 9/16 vs 1/2 and that the outer bearings larger. Why would you not up grade at that price. (said most do) Still waiting on the kit, they said after I open & check every thing call them for tips on the install.
Grease & brake fluid not included.
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Post by Chuck on May 4, 2020 18:52:51 GMT -5
Man Edd you going to coat me money again  you have to stop talking like that 
Chuck
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Post by Edd505 on May 5, 2020 10:21:51 GMT -5
Still waiting on parts, seems there is a delay because of the virus crap, just told about Weds next week.
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Post by laknox on May 5, 2020 13:26:06 GMT -5
Out of curiosity, what's the practical lower weight limit that would make disc brakes really desirable? With only a 10.5k GVW, I've never felt that the standard brakes were insufficient. I'd much rather spend my money on suspension upgrades; wet bolts and, maybe, shocks.
Lyle
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Post by Edd505 on May 5, 2020 19:56:37 GMT -5
Out of curiosity, what's the practical lower weight limit that would make disc brakes really desirable? With only a 10.5k GVW, I've never felt that the standard brakes were insufficient. I'd much rather spend my money on suspension upgrades; wet bolts and, maybe, shocks. Lyle Cars had drums for years and they went disc because they stop better. I think it's probably not necessary for weekender but I travel a lot, normally 10-12K a year towing. Been a couple times I had to panic stop and came close to hitting idiots cutting me off or jamming brakes when a light changed. Towing we can't stop that short, how many think because it has 18 wheels it can stop better? Been reading on them on several sites for a year or so and I'm lead to believe the stopping distance is shorter and most say they can set the gain at about half what they had with drums. Being stuck at home I thought why not, Uncle Sam just bought them for me. I'll post thoughts after I have them installed and driven a bit, I'm hoping it will be noticeable immediately. Even more important was tires, I had LT's when I picked it up. What was next importance to me, no nylon bushings & being able to grease. I did the wet bolts, upgraded shackles, and went the SRE4000 next. I had the SRE3000 OEM and don't see a big difference with the SRE4000. |
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Post by lynnmor on May 6, 2020 10:38:51 GMT -5
The biggest advantage of disc brakes is that they radiate heat much better than the closed design of a drum. The amount of miles you drive per year is not the deciding factor, if you live on a mountain top, you need better braking after one mile. Brakes turn kinetic energy into heat so as brakes heat up brake fade happens.
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Post by laknox on May 6, 2020 11:21:35 GMT -5
The biggest advantage of disc brakes is that they radiate heat much better than the closed design of a drum. The amount of miles you drive per year is not the deciding factor, if you live on a mountain top, you need better braking after one mile. Brakes turn kinetic energy into heat so as brakes heat up brake fade happens. I understand this, which is why I slow =way= down as I hit a downhill run, like to 50-55, then let it run up to about 65, occasionally 70 if traffic allows, while engine braking (no exhaust brake on current truck), then stab the brakes hard back down to 50-55, and let the speed build back up and brakes to cool. Longer runs between braking with a rig that's nearly 900 lbs lighter, though it =is= a bit more slippery. Touch wood, no brake issues by doing this. Lyle |
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Post by lynnmor on May 6, 2020 17:03:28 GMT -5
The biggest advantage of disc brakes is that they radiate heat much better than the closed design of a drum. The amount of miles you drive per year is not the deciding factor, if you live on a mountain top, you need better braking after one mile. Brakes turn kinetic energy into heat so as brakes heat up brake fade happens. I understand this, which is why I slow =way= down as I hit a downhill run, like to 50-55, then let it run up to about 65, occasionally 70 if traffic allows, while engine braking (no exhaust brake on current truck), then stab the brakes hard back down to 50-55, and let the speed build back up and brakes to cool. Longer runs between braking with a rig that's nearly 900 lbs lighter, though it =is= a bit more slippery. Touch wood, no brake issues by doing this. Lyle It doesn't matter if you vary the speed from 70 to 50 repeatedly, the same amount of heat will be produced. Super heating the brakes and then cooling will do nothing but annoy those behind you. Stab breaking came from driving instructions for 18 wheelers with air brakes. Those folks will be hooking to unknown trailers with brake valves not perfectly balanced causing some wheels to do all the work under light braking. Yes, never overuse the brakes, gear down as needed. |
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Post by Edd505 on May 6, 2020 22:46:12 GMT -5
The biggest advantage of disc brakes is that they radiate heat much better than the closed design of a drum. The amount of miles you drive per year is not the deciding factor, if you live on a mountain top, you need better braking after one mile. Brakes turn kinetic energy into heat so as brakes heat up brake fade happens. I understand this, which is why I slow =way= down as I hit a downhill run, like to 50-55, then let it run up to about 65, occasionally 70 if traffic allows, while engine braking (no exhaust brake on current truck), then stab the brakes hard back down to 50-55, and let the speed build back up and brakes to cool. Longer runs between braking with a rig that's nearly 900 lbs lighter, though it =is= a bit more slippery. Touch wood, no brake issues by doing this. Lyle laknox: you are absolutely right that is the way it's taught in the CDL classes. 80,000 on a 6% over 6 miles (cabbage pass OR) recommended down hill at that weight 18mph, you need more than jakes My truck does have an exhaust break and I still use this procedure to slow down.
lynnmore: what happens when you live at 5000ft on the left coast, every thing out of here is up or down? Everyone in the area needs disc? I live near the largest lake in the state, 100,000+ on holiday weekends & I would bet you won't find disc on more than 1%. Traveling under 1000 miles a year people won't spend the money for disc, you have disc's?
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Post by lynnmor on May 7, 2020 1:01:47 GMT -5
I understand this, which is why I slow =way= down as I hit a downhill run, like to 50-55, then let it run up to about 65, occasionally 70 if traffic allows, while engine braking (no exhaust brake on current truck), then stab the brakes hard back down to 50-55, and let the speed build back up and brakes to cool. Longer runs between braking with a rig that's nearly 900 lbs lighter, though it =is= a bit more slippery. Touch wood, no brake issues by doing this. Lyle laknox: you are absolutely right that is the way it's taught in the CDL classes. 80,000 on a 6% over 6 miles (cabbage pass OR) recommended down hill at that weight 18mph, you need more than jakes My truck does have an exhaust break and I still use this procedure to slow down.
lynnmore: what happens when you live at 5000ft on the left coast, every thing out of here is up or down? Everyone in the area needs disc? I live near the largest lake in the state, 100,000+ on holiday weekends & I would bet you won't find disc on more than 1%. Traveling under 1000 miles a year people won't spend the money for disc, you have disc's?
Yep, as I said it is taught to those using air brakes. You either make heat slowing a vehicle with the brakes or you don't, there is no magic way to play with the pedal to prevent that heat. Old wives tales never go away. No, I didn't spend the money for discs on the trailer, with my exhaust brake I use the brakes very little. I've towed thru all the lower 48, and that includes your left coast, without issue. |
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Post by laknox on May 7, 2020 12:48:49 GMT -5
I understand this, which is why I slow =way= down as I hit a downhill run, like to 50-55, then let it run up to about 65, occasionally 70 if traffic allows, while engine braking (no exhaust brake on current truck), then stab the brakes hard back down to 50-55, and let the speed build back up and brakes to cool. Longer runs between braking with a rig that's nearly 900 lbs lighter, though it =is= a bit more slippery. Touch wood, no brake issues by doing this. Lyle It doesn't matter if you vary the speed from 70 to 50 repeatedly, the same amount of heat will be produced. Super heating the brakes and then cooling will do nothing but annoy those behind you. Stab breaking came from driving instructions for 18 wheelers with air brakes. Those folks will be hooking to unknown trailers with brake valves not perfectly balanced causing some wheels to do all the work under light braking. Yes, never overuse the brakes, gear down as needed. Oh, I do downshift, but even in 3rd, my old Komfort would push me to redline, so I =had= to brake. Given that there's usually plenty of semis going down the same (usual) routes I take, faster traffic is already in the left lane. Lyle |
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Post by Edd505 on May 7, 2020 18:38:27 GMT -5
No, I didn't spend the money for discs on the trailer, with my exhaust brake I use the brakes very little. I've towed thru all the lower 48, and that includes your left coast, without issue. 14K behind my F350 with exhaust brake and you will use foot breaks doing 6% over 6 miles. This is my 3rd 5W with thousands of miles in all states west of the Mississippi and a good portion through the Midwest, all w/o discs. I have time and Uncle Sam bought them for me, I'll spend the time & $$ for just in case. Why? Because I can. |
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Post by Chuck on May 11, 2020 16:47:15 GMT -5
I like Edd505 spend lots of time in the mountains out here in the west with 6 or 7 percent grades anywhere from 6 to 10 miles with switchbacks on a number of them like cabbage pass ... To give you an Idea 6 miles at a 6 percent downgrade sounds somewhat scary but add the switchbacks every mile going down the hill an it becomes a nightmare if you heat up your brakes an loose them, this is why they have run away shoots at different levels of the downhills ...
When I was a semi driving instructor I would tell my students to start off the hill in lowest gear they used coming up the hill ... In other words if they came up the hill in 3rd or 4th they should go down the hill in the same gear using their Jake brake an using their regular bakes every so often ... I even use to take student drivers off Lookout pass in Idaho/Montana border without a Jake to show or should I say put the fear of God in them to show them what could happen if they choose to not heed what I was showing them, of course I always wouldn't let them get to far before I would show them how to slow things down so not to hurt us both I use this method to this day pulling our 5th wheel, like EDD we weigh in at over 15k just the trailer alone an add the truck going down one of these grades in no joke ...
So as with Edd I been thinking of adding the disk brakes for some time now an since my rig sits in the driveway now an I can't go anywhere why not change out to disk brakes an be done with it an add my peace of mind the next time I go down Lookout or Cabbage passes ...
Stay Safe 
Chuck
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you have to stop talking like that 
