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Post by Edd505 on May 19, 2020 13:07:41 GMT -5
Quick update all the parts are here but I have a slight delay. My youngest wants to help and he will be gone a couple weeks. "Dad I want to work with you we haven't done something like this since I was in HS & we did a valve grind." Hard to say no to time together, too be continued.
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Post by Edd505 on Jun 4, 2020 19:47:22 GMT -5
OK finished the install in two days and could likely do another in a little less time. Everything you need is in the kit from Performance Trailer Braking, minus 2 cans grease, 2 quarts brake fluid, and I bought thread lock. I recommend you have a double flare tool & tubing bender, along with standard hand tools. There are 3 basic parts to the install, mechanical Rotor/caliper install, electric wiring the pump, and running hydraulic lines.
1. Remove all old brake parts, cut the electric you don't need it.
2. Adapter installed, rotor & caliper installed. The baring race needed emery cloth the fit the bearing, it's tight. (Do this with the bearing dry on all spindles)
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Post by Edd505 on Jun 4, 2020 20:19:34 GMT -5
3. Locate a location for pump & mount. I ran a fish wire from inside the basement where I could see the wires coming in from the pin box. Attach wires from kit and pull into pin box, follow kit wiring diagram. I had to drill a hole below the pump to run the main hydraulic line for the system.
 
4. To me the hardest part, running the hydraulic lines. The lines in included seemed a little long and with some strategic bending I was able to run the stock lines. The main supply line running back was just too long and I cut & re-flared the end. I also added a metal strip running between the stringers front to back so I had a place to securely anchor the lines. Add brake fluid & bleed by pulling the break away pin. It's two man at that point and just short bursts as the pump runs dry fast. I used a clear line from the bleed screw to the brake fluid container to keep the mess down & not waste the fluid. The system can be filled with DOT 3 or DOT 4. DOT4 is synthetic so I went with it as I use synthetic in my tow vehicle also.
Tomorrow I reinstall the hitch and take it for a test drive.
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Post by nvguy on Jun 4, 2020 23:40:17 GMT -5
Looks good, it will be interesting to hear your tow report.
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Post by Edd505 on Jun 6, 2020 13:34:40 GMT -5
Ok didn't get to test yesterday, major rain, I don't think we are in drought any more.  Hooked up the 5W and get no trailer connected message in the truck display.  Opened the junction box to check wiring, trace wires, check connections & all looks good.  Move the 7 pin from the bed to bumper, connection! Open bed 7 pin, all looks good. Re-plug into bed and it works! Guess in my hurry to check I didn't get it plugged al the way in but have just wired ..............
The test was short, maybe 10 miles and the gain went from 9 to 6.5 to start and I maybe able to go lower when I get a few more mile. At 6.5 the trailer with moderate pressure locked so dropped the gain back to 6. The braking was immediate and smooth and once broke in I think 5 maybe about right. I'll re-bleed to insure there is no air left in the system. The trailer brakes now lock with little effort.
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Post by Chuck on Jun 6, 2020 17:59:30 GMT -5
Wow Edd, great job, I also see you have the MorRyde SRE4000 an wet bolts now in, your in tall cotton now LOL Again now your going to cost me money an since you know how you can always stop by an show me how, just let me know ahead of time so I can order the parts an brake assemble  Safe Travels  Chuck |
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Hooked up the 5W and get no trailer connected message in the truck display. 
Opened the junction box to check wiring, trace wires, check connections & all looks good. 
Move the 7 pin from the bed to bumper, connection! Open bed 7 pin, all looks good. Re-plug into bed and it works! Guess in my hurry to check I didn't get it plugged al the way in but have just wired ..............
