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Post by sanchin on Apr 24, 2018 20:29:47 GMT -5
Okay. Finally figure out how to unscrew the element. Now got it replaced.
Plug in city water, run the water tap for a while, then tested with all breakers on. The GFI socket in my house didn't trapped. Yea!
I turned on heat switch (at the heater) also the switch in the washroom, however, the water is not warm even after 15-20mins.
How long does it take to have warm/hot water? How do I know if the heater is working? Does it make any sound or something? My heater is very quite.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 24, 2018 21:18:53 GMT -5
It should be warm in that amount of time. Do you have it turned on inside at the wall panel? Does other outlets have power? Did you snap the breakers off and on? Did you keep the power off till the water heater was full? Do you have a voltmeter, if so check for voltage at the element. Did you add a breaker?
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Post by sanchin on Apr 24, 2018 22:24:02 GMT -5
It should be warm in that amount of time. Do you have it turned on inside at the wall panel? Does other outlets have power? Did you snap the breakers off and on? Did you keep the power off till the water heater was full? Do you have a voltmeter, if so check for voltage at the element. Did you add a breaker? What should be the element's voltage reading? And what should be the resistance reading when no power? I did turn on the switch inside (which is located in the washroom for my trailer). Anyway, I think I blow the element again ~LOL~. There's a cold water valve behind the heater wasn't on. The previous owner shut it off but he didn't tell me that. No, I haven't added another breaker yet. |
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 25, 2018 2:31:34 GMT -5
I guess that valve is for wintering and you blew the new element.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 25, 2018 14:40:20 GMT -5
I guess that valve is for wintering and you blew the new element. I checked there is no resistance on the element, so I guess it's blew. I replaced a new one and tested. GFI socket not tripped. However, still no hot water (maybe a bit warm). How hot is the water supposed to be? After I turned on the inside heat switch, I can hear a quiet high frequency sound if I opened the door at the back of the heater. Is that normal? Also, I found that the valve behind the heater is leaking very very slowly. Another question is the refrigerator. I have the one with 110v and gas. When plugged in 110v, the refrigerator's ON and GAS light are blinking. |
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Post by sanchin on Apr 25, 2018 14:47:27 GMT -5
Do i supposed to turn on the water pump? I thought that is used to pump water from the water tank, is that right?
I am connected to the city water, the water pressure is really good.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 25, 2018 15:54:48 GMT -5
The water should get very hot.
Some hissing sound is common when the element is energized.
Be sure that the outside shower valves are both closed, not the hand held valve.
The water pump is, as you say, for using tank water. There is no need for it to be on when connected to city water.
The valve leak may have come freezing if the winterizing was not done properly. If you have a single valve system, it is a special two way valve. Water flows in the direction of the handle and that should be in line with the water heater. You might have it somewhere in between.
Get a stove burner to burn properly before turning on the fridge. The lights are probably a warning that the gas did not ignite. Post your make and model and also look it up online for a manual that will explain the flashing light code. I’m not sure if you have it set for gas or automatic.
When opening the valve on a gas bottle, open it very slowly so that it doesn’t seal off for protection. Open it fully till tight.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 25, 2018 20:25:27 GMT -5
After last post, I turned off the inside heat switch and unplugged the city water, then I went out.
Came home and checked the outside shower, it was off. Connected the city water and turn on the inside heat switch to test, then I got hot water. Yes it is quite hot. I am not sure how it happened, but it works now.... Haha! The GFI socket didn't trip.
My refrigerator is Norcold N611FRT. If I remembered correctly, when plug in with 110v, the green "ON" light should be solid and the gas orange light should be blinking. But now, both ar blinking. I know I supposed to put the trailer level in order to have it working. But my driveway is very steep, and I already got 90% level. Would that be a concern?
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 25, 2018 20:55:46 GMT -5
Read the manual, if the fridge is set to auto, it should switch to 120 volt power when plugged in, and gas when not. A blinking light usually means that the gas burner didn’t ignite.
Facing the front of the fridge, you are allowed 3 degrees from level left to right, and 6 degrees from level front to back. There are free level apps for smartphones that display degrees. Operating outside the permissible specifications will do permanent damage.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 25, 2018 22:01:11 GMT -5
Read the manual, if the fridge is set to auto, it should switch to 120 volt power when plugged in, and gas when not. A blinking light usually means that the gas burner didn’t ignite. Facing the front of the fridge, you are allowed 3 degrees from level left to right, and 6 degrees from level front to back. There are free level apps for smartphones that display degrees. Operating outside the permissible specifications will do permanent damage. It is the GFI breaker. Remember I disconnected the wires to narrow down the problem before. Now, reconnected, no tripping and everything works (including the refrigerator). Thank you so much for your help! |
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Post by sanchin on Apr 25, 2018 22:01:59 GMT -5
Another problem, the heater top valve is leaking...
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 25, 2018 23:53:35 GMT -5
Another problem, the heater top valve is leaking... Is that the water heater T&P valve with the lever on it? If so, did you flip it open while you filled the water heater? If you did, you lost the air pocket in the top and expansion from heat is causing the leak. Try quickly flipping it open and snapping it shut a few times. Try draining and refilling, this time turned off and T&P valve kept shut. If all that fails to stop the leak, check that water is no more than 140 degrees. If over, the thermostat need replacement. The valves are available at Home Depot next to the heating elements. |
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Post by nvguy on Apr 26, 2018 0:08:28 GMT -5
The PT valve? They will seep when the water heater reaches temp. There is supposed to be an "air cushion" inside the tank to prevent this sort of thing.
Here is a detailed explanation and how to reestablish the air cushion.
In optimum circumstances there is a cushion of air inside the tank above the water level that acts as an accumulator of sorts. It allows space for the water to expand into while being heated. This air space, (oxygen), is eventually fully absorbed by the oxygen molecules in the water. This results in no place for the expanding water to move into since the tank is, at that point, completely full. The P & T valve then performs one of its safety functions and opens. Expelling the heated water through the P & T valve allows additional cold water to enter the tank (thus lowering the temperature) and causing the valve portion to snap shut.
To reestablish the cushion of air inside the tank, remove the water source by either turning the demand pump off, or by interrupting the flow of city water. Open any two hot water faucets in the coach.
Next, open the manual lever on the relief valve until the water flow completely stops. Close the P & T valve and the faucets, then turn the pressure back on. There is now a cushion of air trapped above the water level inside the water heater once again.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 26, 2018 17:45:22 GMT -5
Is that the water heater T&P valve with the lever on it? If so, did you flip it open while you filled the water heater? If you did, you lost the air pocket in the top and expansion from heat is causing the leak. Try quickly flipping it open and snapping it shut a few times. Try draining and refilling, this time turned off and T&P valve kept shut. If all that fails to stop the leak, check that water is no more than 140 degrees. If over, the thermostat need replacement. The valves are available at Home Depot next to the heating elements. I can't remember if I flipped it open while filling the water. Maybe I did to check if any water in the tank. |
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Post by campfire53 on May 3, 2018 19:54:01 GMT -5
30 amp needs 10 gauge wire also how far is the plug in from the main panel. GFCI are funny at times and even a new one can be bad but Most of the time when a GFCI trips it is protecting you and your family and property a loose ground or neutral is usually the problem I use a GFCI tester and a voltage meter to check outlets output before I plug in
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Post by sanchin on May 4, 2018 12:12:34 GMT -5
30 amp needs 10 gauge wire also how far is the plug in from the main panel. GFCI are funny at times and even a new one can be bad but Most of the time when a GFCI trips it is protecting you and your family and property a loose ground or neutral is usually the problem I use a GFCI tester and a voltage meter to check outlets output before I plug in Thanks. In my case, the GFI socket works well. I already tried to replace with a brand new 15a and 20a GFI sockets and the results' the same. |
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Post by yetirtider on Oct 10, 2018 19:24:52 GMT -5
I had the same problem with my camper. I could plug into a gfi outlet and it would trip but when I plugged into a non gfi protected outlet it would work. I trouble shot every aspect of the electrical in the camper and found no issues. I am an electrician by trade so I have a good idea what I am doing. I disconnected the wiring to the heating element and it still did not work. It wasn't until I replaced the bad heating element that solved the problem, weird.
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Post by nvguy on Oct 10, 2018 22:28:56 GMT -5
I had the same problem with my camper. I could plug into a gfi outlet and it would trip but when I plugged into a non gfi protected outlet it would work. I trouble shot every aspect of the electrical in the camper and found no issues. I am an electrician by trade so I have a good idea what I am doing. I disconnected the wiring to the heating element and it still did not work. It wasn't until I replaced the bad heating element that solved the problem, weird. Yep, 99% of the time when a customer reported the GFI issue it was the water heater element. Only other time was when the factory hit a piece of romex (wiring) in the wall with a staple shorting neural to ground. Water and electricity are strange bedfellows. |
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