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Post by sanchin on Apr 19, 2018 22:16:00 GMT -5
Updates:
The battery voltage reads 13.5V after charged. I connected it back to the trailer and run the test.
Without connecting the heater, the main 30A and converter 20A combo still tripped the GFI outlet of my house.
Not feeling good. Please help. Thank you.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 4:32:09 GMT -5
A battery takes at least 10 hours to fully charge with the typical home charger. A fully charged battery will read 12.8 volts, I guess that you checked the voltage with the charger or converter connected.
To be more clear, remove the black plastic cover over the water heater element. Remove both wires. Retest.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 20, 2018 15:11:21 GMT -5
A battery takes at least 10 hours to fully charge with the typical home charger. A fully charged battery will read 12.8 volts, I guess that you checked the voltage with the charger or converter connected. To be more clear, remove the black plastic cover over the water heater element. Remove both wires. Retest. My charger is 15A charger, and I charged for about 5 hours. I did disconnect the charger and converter when I tested the voltage. The battery is stand-alone when I checked the voltage. The black plastic cover? Do you mean the rectangular or circle one? (Please see the pictures) Thanks. Attachments:
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 15:47:06 GMT -5
The bottom photo with circular thing with two wires is the element. Just remove the wires, protect the ends and retest. The cover I mentioned is missing.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 20, 2018 16:28:46 GMT -5
The bottom photo with circular thing with two wires is the element. Just remove the wires, protect the ends and retest. The cover I mentioned is missing. Sure will do. It has cover. I just took it off to take photo. |
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Post by sanchin on Apr 20, 2018 16:42:40 GMT -5
Bingo! After disconnect both wires, all breakers can turn on and the GFI didn't trip.
Does that mean the heater element is dead? Do i just replace it? How difficult to do it? Thanks.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 16:58:57 GMT -5
Got to a hardware store or home center and buy a 120 volt, 1400 to 1500 watt element. Buy the cheaper element socket, it has more clearance than the expensive one. Unless it is corroded in place, it is very easy to screw it out and the new one in. It doesn’t matter which wire connects to the terminals.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 20, 2018 17:57:14 GMT -5
Got to a hardware store or home center and buy a 120 volt, 1400 to 1500 watt element. Buy the cheaper element socket, it has more clearance than the expensive one. Unless it is corroded in place, it is very easy to screw it out and the new one in. It doesn’t matter which wire connects to the terminals. I found two part number for Suburban 1440w screw in element. They are 520789 and 520900. Would that be a matter? Both are 120V 1440W and same 11 inches in length. All new element should come with the gasket, right? Is this common that the element has problem? I understand the anode rod should be replaced at least once a year. How about the element? Should it be replaced at the same time as the rod? |
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 18:23:20 GMT -5
Elements are as basic as light bulbs, a local hardware store should have what you need along with the socket, no need to overthink this. The most common failure comes from turning on the water heater without sufficient water in it and the element will fail in seconds.
Anode rods will last months to years depending on the impurities in the water. I need to replace almost every year. They are available on eBay for a low price. A magnesium rod will give the most protection, it’s just a metal rod and brand doesn’t matter. After flushing, clean the tank threads and use Teflon tape on the rod threads, do not over tighten, the tank is aluminum and easy to damage. To get the threads started, use a socket with an extension for a handle. Placing some paper towel over the socket and pushing in the anode will hold it in place making it much easier to get it started. Be sure that it turns in a number of turns by hand before using the socket wrench.
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Post by Edd505 on Apr 20, 2018 19:10:35 GMT -5
I knew you would get the issues solved lymnmor, good job!
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Post by sanchin on Apr 20, 2018 20:26:41 GMT -5
Elements are as basic as light bulbs, a local hardware store should have what you need along with the socket, no need to overthink this. The most common failure comes from turning on the water heater without sufficient water in it and the element will fail in seconds. Anode rods will last months to years depending on the impurities in the water. I need to replace almost every year. They are available on eBay for a low price. A magnesium rod will give the most protection, it’s just a metal rod and brand doesn’t matter. After flushing, clean the tank threads and use Teflon tape on the rod threads, do not over tighten, the tank is aluminum and easy to damage. To get the threads started, use a socket with an extension for a handle. Placing some paper towel over the socket and pushing in the anode will hold it in place making it much easier to get it started. Be sure that it turns in a number of turns by hand before using the socket wrench. So not necessary to get Suburban's? Will this work? www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.water-heater-element.1000120198.html |
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 20, 2018 20:48:04 GMT -5
Should be fine.
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Post by Chuck on Apr 21, 2018 10:34:34 GMT -5
Way to go lynnmor, thank you for helping sanchin out an sticking with him !!! 
Good job sanchin, way to stick with it an find the problem 
Safe Travels an Happy Camping
Chuck
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Post by sanchin on Apr 21, 2018 12:58:55 GMT -5
Thanks. Will get the element and tool in the afternoon. I ordered the rod but won't come in until next Tuesday. So, is that okay if I replaced the element (without turning on the heater) and test if the GFI socket tripping? Also, when removing the element, would that be any water coming out? Thanks. |
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Post by sanchin on Apr 21, 2018 13:00:49 GMT -5
Way to go lynnmor, thank you for helping sanchin out an sticking with him !!!
Good job sanchin, way to stick with it an find the problem
Safe Travels an Happy Camping
Chuck
Yes, you guys are great! Thanks for being patient to a newbie like me. Lynnmor is experienced and knowledgeable. So happy in this KZ family forum. |
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 21, 2018 13:23:49 GMT -5
Thanks. Will get the element and tool in the afternoon. I ordered the rod but won't come in until next Tuesday. So, is that okay if I replaced the element (without turning on the heater) and test if the GFI socket tripping? Also, when removing the element, would that be any water coming out? Thanks. You will need to drain the water heater. Some will drain most of the water out if you open the low point drains under the trailer and flip the lever on the T&P valve. Others will hold most of the water till you remove the element and the anode rod and let it rip. One hint is to make sure that the water heater housing is sealed to the wall with caulk so that water doesn’t get between. Camco sells a flushing wand, that fits on a garden hose, to stick in the anode hole for better debris removal. |
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Post by sanchin on Apr 21, 2018 14:01:44 GMT -5
Thanks. Will get the element and tool in the afternoon. I ordered the rod but won't come in until next Tuesday. So, is that okay if I replaced the element (without turning on the heater) and test if the GFI socket tripping? Also, when removing the element, would that be any water coming out? Thanks. You will need to drain the water heater. Some will drain most of the water out if you open the low point drains under the trailer and flip the lever on the T&P valve. Others will hold most of the water till you remove the element and the anode rod and let it rip. One hint is to make sure that the water heater housing is sealed to the wall with caulk so that water doesn’t get between. Camco sells a flushing wand, that fits on a garden hose, to stick in the anode hole for better debris removal. Okay. I guess I should wait for the anode rod, then do everything together. Thanks. |
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Post by sanchin on Apr 24, 2018 12:11:05 GMT -5
All parts came in. I will probably start flushing the heater tank, replacing the anode rod and element later today.
One quick question. I know I should not turn on the water heater unless it has water inside. How can I check if there's water inside the heater tank? Or just connect to the city water and let the water running for a while? Thanks.
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 24, 2018 14:34:06 GMT -5
Sure, just open a hot water faucet and let it spit and sputter till all air is expelled, expect quite a bit of air.
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Post by sanchin on Apr 24, 2018 18:58:29 GMT -5
Sure, just open a hot water faucet and let it spit and sputter till all air is expelled, expect quite a bit of air. You know what, the tank was empty. When I removed the anode rod, there was not much water coming out. I didn't turn on the heater as I remember, but maybe somehow someone did. And that's why the element burned. The anode rod is replaced and tank is flushed. However, now come into another challenge. The element was so stuck and I can't even move it. The tool that I got is a 3inches long from homedepot, and this is the only one they have. I probably need to order a 5inches long for a better handling. Other than this, any tips for removing the element? Would WD40 a good move? Haha! Thanks. |
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