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Post by ronc on Jul 2, 2017 12:06:48 GMT -5
We have an 18 cu ft residential Samsung ... not loose at all. Traveled 11,000 miles so far with no problem. But worth offering feedback to KZ, I'm guessing the list Chuck is keeping is getting LONG.
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Post by ronc on Jun 30, 2017 21:12:12 GMT -5
If it's a Samsung, when the "ice off" light is ON ... that is the no ice position. To get ice, the "ice off" light must be off. I'm sure that makes sense in Japan but less so here ... that they would put an "ice off" light but not an "ice on" light. Go figure.
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Post by ronc on Jun 27, 2017 20:49:22 GMT -5
Yep, blowouts are no fun. I had one doing 72 on the interstate. That was with 5 year old original tires. I have a set of good years on now. They were what Walmart had when got to the nearest one. Just FYI ... ST tires are speed rated @ 65 MPH.
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Post by ronc on Jun 27, 2017 17:55:15 GMT -5
We try to keep it to 200-250 per day.
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Post by ronc on Jun 27, 2017 17:53:39 GMT -5
moderators are not monitoring the board. Last online was 2015. What's up with that?
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Post by ronc on May 15, 2017 12:33:58 GMT -5
What I have not figured out yet is getting the TV to change over to the standard antenna on the roof Read more: kzfamilyforum.com/thread/1346/durango-gold-381-ref?page=1#ixzz4hAXUKOTDone my rig (381REF 2017), there is a power button that you push to "power" the on air antenna. Mine is located in the MBR just above the MBR TV. When powered the antenna will pick up over the air signals. If hooked to cable or satellite the power button must be off as it will interfere with those signals. When powered on there will be a green light, when off the light goes off. After getting the antenna power button in the correct position, you have to go into the TV setup menu to select the signal source ... which is usually TV, but depending on brand it may say antenna, or something similar. When watching satellite or cable the antenna power switch must be off. Then you must go into the TV setup menu to select cable or HDMI (HDMI is how the satellite is usually connected to the TV). When outside your home viewing area, you will need to use the TV setup menu to "search" for the local channels. Hope this helps.
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Post by ronc on May 15, 2017 12:15:56 GMT -5
I have a 381REF and there are two switches that control the door lights. One is marked "Porch Light" ... this one turns the yellow porch light and the yellow light in the doorway stair well. The other is marked "DS Flood Light" and it turns on the bright white over the door. The light over the door serves to be either the yellow bug light or the bright white light (it is dual function)
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Post by ronc on May 14, 2017 8:04:04 GMT -5
rikopus, I do believe the OSB floor board is 5/8" thick. It may be 3/4". When I made the blocks, I countersunk the holes 1/4" deep. This left 1/2" remaining for the thickness of the block to attach to the floor. With that thickness, I was safely able to use a 1" long screw to attach these blocks directly on the carpet, within the circle imprint. Hope this helps! Actually, in my 2017 381REF the floors are 5/8 marine grade tongue and grove plywood ... not OSB. The roof is 3/8 OSB. Many manufacturers do use OSB, but in the Durango Gold (do not know about the others), no OSB in the floor.
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Post by ronc on May 6, 2017 14:36:19 GMT -5
I have the same issue .
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Post by ronc on May 6, 2017 11:13:14 GMT -5
Hey Chuck,
I have the yellow lego blocks, but have never used them. They are probably fine, but they seem "fragile" to me. If others have used them with success over time, I'd love to hear about their experiences. The wood is heavier the plastic blocks, by a LOT.
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Post by ronc on May 4, 2017 10:04:57 GMT -5
I also have the 6 point leveling system. I use three 1 foot sections of 2x10 stacked on top of each other on each of the 6 jack positions. This causes the jacks to extend LESS to achieve level and causes them to be stiffer than if they extended more (shorter is stiffer). This reduces the movement of trailer when parked and seems to have reduced the Lippert Pop.
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Post by ronc on May 2, 2017 7:32:58 GMT -5
Amen!!
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Post by ronc on May 2, 2017 7:32:25 GMT -5
Since the subject of Air Conditioners has come up ... High End (Durango Gold) products should ONLY have digital thermostats (the analog ones are crap). Let's move into the 21st century on the units themselves. New style "inverter drive" AC's (heat pumps would be even better) would eliminate the need for ductwork, are whisper quiet, and use 1/2 the electricity. This would be easy to do at the time of manufacture, but is a difficult retro fit.
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Post by ronc on Apr 30, 2017 15:45:46 GMT -5
When is the KZ Rally and where is it being held?
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Post by ronc on Apr 30, 2017 15:41:13 GMT -5
There was some comment on Nitrogen being "Just a money making scheme". While partially true, Nitrogen is superior to "normal air" in two ways. First, the Nitrogen molecule is larger than the average size of the molecules that make up "air" (Nitrogen, Oxygen, Carbon Dioxide, etc.) ... the result is that over time, Nitrogen filled tires are less likely to lose pressure due to the natural migration of the molecules out of the pressurized environment (tire). The second is that Nitrogen is an inert gas and will not support combustion. Tire fires do happen and Nitrogen ensures that won't happen.
With regard on the upgrade to the Goodyear G614 G rated tires. Good choice as this is exactly what I did. Just make sure that your wheels will allow for the 110 psi the tires need to carry their maximum load (3,750 lbs). No need to worry about wheel offset, as your factory wheels meet that requirement.
I have about 10,000 trouble free miles on my G614's and they still look new. I have (and strongly recommend) a tire pressure monitoring system. Mine is a Truck Systems Technology (TST) 507 and I have a monitor on all 10 tires (6 on the truck and 4 on the 5'er). There are several other brands besides TST, so I'm not advocating the brand, just the technology ... I consider a TPMS mandatory safety equipment.
Hope this is helpful
BTW .... I use regular “air” myself, just much more convenient.
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Post by ronc on Apr 30, 2017 15:25:25 GMT -5
My 2017 Durango Gold 381REF has wheels rated at 110 PSI. I have Goodyear G614 G rated tires.
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Post by ronc on Apr 30, 2017 15:16:59 GMT -5
The loose heater ducts apparently is common, as I also had that same issue. I got my look behind the panel when I had my AquaGo water heater installed. That water heater (endless hot water) is awesome.
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Post by ronc on Apr 30, 2017 15:08:48 GMT -5
I know this is a 2 year old post, but the info is still valid and many do research on this site, so FWIW. The tires you are referring to are Goodyear G614 G rated tires which are speed rated to 75 MPH. The thing with these is that unlike the stock ST tires which normally are speed rated at 65 MPH and maximum inflation pressure of 80 PSI, the G614's have a rating of 3750 lbs carrying capacity at 110 PSI. If you chose to use these tires, and they are very good if your actual weight is 17,000 lbs or less and the individual wheel weights are in the 3,200-3,300 lbs range, make sure your WHEELS can take the 110 PSI pressure. If you weigh more than 17,000 lbs and your individual wheel weights are more than 3500 lbs. I suggest moving up to an H rated tire, which may necessitate a change to 17.5 inch wheels. I have a 2017 Durango Gold 381REF and I weigh 16,400 loaded to full time. My heaviest wheel is 3,440 so even though I already have G614's, I am going to upgrade the wheels and tires to Goodyear G114's which are H rated @ 75 MPH. Those tires are pretty much bullet proof. The 614's are fine tires as long as you don't overload them. I personally keep my speed down to 60-65 MPH and have a tire pressure monitoring system.
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Post by ronc on Dec 22, 2016 19:27:15 GMT -5
I have a 2017 Durango Gold 381REF. I installed a Truma AquaGo hot water heater ... it is amazing. Thrifty with propane, the same short wait until hot water gets to the shower head ... but most importantly, never ending hot water. Long hot showers are among my favorite things, so I couldn't get happy with the capacity of the OEM 12 gallon tank. Highly recommended upgrade.
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Post by ronc on Dec 12, 2016 21:23:57 GMT -5
Hi,
Has anyone implanted a cord reel in their Durango or KZ? If I wanted it in the compartment with the water, I'd have to rearrange my trunk a little bit. I keep my chairs and tables there right now and this box would make it harder to get things in and out. Maybe the sewer tote could go there and I could use the front for chairs? Would putting something like this cord reel in the front make any sense? I'd still have to carry it around to the side.
Anyway, is the manual crank difficult to work? Any problems getting the marine locking end inserted to get it started? Is the crank sturdy? Should I look at the 12V electric reels instead?
Looking at something like:
Thanks!
I installed this exact unit in my 2017 Durango Gold 381REF. It is easy to use and very sturdy. It allows you to wipe down the power cord as you wind it in, keeping your basement cleaner and uses less floor space than the dirty cord used to occupy when laying on the basement floor. Like most Mor/Ryde products, it's well designed and first rate.
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