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Post by ronc on Feb 22, 2022 14:26:36 GMT -5
To my knowledge, the Coleman digital (which I also installed) are no longer available anywhere. I need a cool only one and can't find one ... help!! I don't think the made a cool only Ron, I kept the analog in the bedroom. I can send you one of those as I changed to digital in my last two 5W's. link Coleman Thermostat Yeah ... they made a cool only version which I had in the bedroom for the last 5 years. Alas, it's toes up and was looking for a cool only to replace it. That is not available, as far as I can tell, so I just installed the heat cool version and just didn't connect the heat side (white wire). It's fine now, just another compromise.
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Post by ronc on Feb 8, 2022 15:22:56 GMT -5
I have installed the Coleman digital in all my 5W's. Wire for wire swap so very easy, never looked at how low it goes. I can run outside later and look. To my knowledge, the Coleman digital (which I also installed) are no longer available anywhere. I need a cool only one and can't find one ... help!!
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Post by ronc on Oct 19, 2021 14:24:54 GMT -5
I also have a residential frig and two BIG 12V AGM Lifeline batteries (210 amp/hour each). So big that only one would fit in the battery box, the other is in the basement ... but that's OK because AGM doesn't off gas and never needs to be serviced.
I will say that AGM Batteries and LiPo's both need upgraded converters (battery chargers). I have a Xantrex TRUECharge 2 60 amp that has a special charge cycle for charging and maintaining AGM batteries. The "standard" converter is pretty low end.
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Post by ronc on Oct 19, 2021 14:19:07 GMT -5
Mine did. 2017 REF381.
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Post by ronc on Sept 7, 2021 14:00:45 GMT -5
How useless is a fridge (or pantry/cabinet) that you have to =unload= before moving? Sort of defeats the whole purpose, IMO. I our case, it's the pantry shelves, which just sit on the little adjustment clips, with nothing to keep them from bouncing. LOVED getting to a campsite early on and all the shelves fell down onto the chips in the bottom (for easy kid access, we thought) and we had nothing but crumbs. G*d forbid that they even offer the option of slide out pantry shelves. Stupid, stupid designers who have never camped in their lives and have zero clue as to how to make stuff for real-world use. Again, IMO, everyone who's hired to work at an RV mfr, should have to live in an RV during their first year, and this includes hitching it up, siting it, unhitching, then moving again, preferably on a monthly basis. Bet you'd see some changes...NAH, the bean counters would deep 6 anything meaningful... Lyle We don't "unload" our residential refrigerator, we just move heavy stuff to the bottom shelf and/or crisper drawers. As for the pantry and other suspended shelves ... they all have been braced so they will not fall, so we don't worry about rearranging anything on moving day. This bracing includes the rod in the bedroom clothes closet. Those will never fall again.
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Post by ronc on Sept 6, 2021 14:15:06 GMT -5
Made the trip to the rally, 700 miles, arrived with 2 shelves broken where they connect to the insideside of the fridg, a lot of bounce with a fridg in the rear of a 43 ft 5th wheel. also no water of ice again, water and ice worked when connectd at home. and yes, water is on, nothing changed between disconnecting from home to going camping, in contact with KZ both at the rally and online to see how this will be taken care of I actually heard about your situation at the Rally. It came up when several of us were talking and I commented that if I was to trade unit (not going to happen ... ) I would get the rear kitchen as we loved the floorpan and that amazing sliding pantry drawer. That's when your situation with the fridge shelves came up. I don't know what your personal situation was, but when we travel nothing heavy is on any shelf (including the refrigerator). Appliances, canned goods, drinks, etc are all stored as low as possible to prevent this sort of thing from happening. We learned this thru experience, which was never pleasant. Glad to hear that you got your situation resolved.
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Post by ronc on Aug 31, 2021 13:48:50 GMT -5
We had a custom latex foam mattress made in San Antonio at Cantwells. Very expensive and it sleeps beautifully ... but it is VERY heavy. Think about weight when you buy a replacement.
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Post by ronc on Aug 31, 2021 13:26:14 GMT -5
We just arrived at a campsite and disconnected our truck from the Durango. When I initially hit the auto level button the status light on the outdoor panel blinked red. I manually lowered the front of the trailer a few inches as it looked higher than usual. Since then, whenever I attempt to auto level, the system is trying to drop the front of the trailer on the ground. So we leveled manually for tonight. Has anybody else seen this behavior from the system? Do I need to reset the level calibration? Any advice is much appreciated. We have the Lippert 6 point hydraulic Level Up system. when starting the auto level process the nose must be above level. It begins the auto level process by lowering the nose. If you are not familiar with this, when that nose starts down, it can be unnerving. But that's the way it is supposed to work. If you have the electric Ground Control system ... I have no idea how they work. Ron
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Post by ronc on Jul 13, 2021 15:27:15 GMT -5
What are you using for trip routing to plan routes for trips? These new Golds are all running 13-6 high, which can be plus or minus. and have you measured yours for height? Go to lowclearances.com and d/l their d.b. of low clearance points. They have over 8,000 low clearances listed in the U.S. and Canada. $75, with lifetime updates. It's a standard POI d.b. and you u/l it right into your GPS app or device. Allows you to input your specific data and will reroute you if needed. I've not used mine, yet, as I tend to go to the same place(s), for now. FWIW, most RV or "trucker" apps/devices list only about 1500-2000 low clearance points. Lyle FWIW ... lowclearaces.com will alert you to a low clearance even if you are driving over it and the low clearance is below you. Perhaps that's why it has so many, because it's not route specific.
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Post by ronc on Jul 12, 2021 14:24:27 GMT -5
I also use RV Life app. Have not been far yet since I just got my unit. But you are correct. I put in 13-8 to have a couple of inches buffer.
This is always a personal preference thing ... but we measure 13'0". My "never go under" number 13'6". If they repaved the road since putting up the clearance sign, it could be a little less than the last time they measured.
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Post by ronc on Jun 21, 2021 14:36:39 GMT -5
absolutely true.
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Post by ronc on Jun 20, 2021 14:46:58 GMT -5
Lippert Bulletin on 50-80amp
Thanks Ron
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Post by ronc on Jun 19, 2021 13:23:05 GMT -5
I'm liking the 14,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner idea with a heavy extension cord. I have a window unit in the bedroom at home 12,000 BTU that plugs into a normal wall socket, has a breaker built into the cord. Spent a week at 100+ on 30 amps, never again. I agree. We stayed a week on Grand Island (Branches of Niagara RV Park) when we visited Niagara Falls. It was the one and only time we stayed in a 30 amp site. Luckily the temps were very moderate ... cool even ... so no AC needed. When it's 100 plus, even two AC's is marginal. They run constantly and seldom cycle ... with 3 units they all cycle.
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Post by ronc on Jun 16, 2021 14:04:02 GMT -5
Cheap option. My DG was not pre wired nor was the rear Bunkhouse boxes in for a third AC. I had my dealer frame the AC and install it while it was down for warranty service. They took pity on my after having it the better part of a year and installed it below cost. I bought a heavy duty extension cord (10 gauge) and wired it up to the AC. The cord is attached to the ladder and another 10 gauge extension cord will be plugged in at the camp site to run the third ac if needed. I have read about several people doing this and no one had any issues as long as a heavy duty cord was used. Just a note ... the extension cord is plugged for 120V, which is often the GFI plug on the power pedestal, which often doesn't work. I use a dog bone (120V female to 30 amp male). This is more reliable power, but will require a 20 breaker installed in the AC circuit as running it on the 30 amp plug has the following caveat ... caution ... a 30 amp breaker is too high and would produce a fire risk.
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Post by ronc on Jun 16, 2021 13:58:04 GMT -5
I assume your leveling system is hydraulic ... if not, ignore this whole post. It is not uncommon for the 50 amp automatic resettable circuit breaker can get weak and start tripping. It then resets itself and works for a bit, then trips again. There is really nothing wrong with it other than age. My 2017 Gold started doing this and after replacing that breaker it now works like it always did.
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Post by ronc on Jun 15, 2021 13:29:04 GMT -5
Well I have emailed my dealer and awaiting their reply. I also noticed next to nothing for air movement out of the vents. A paper towel over the vent doesn’t even move. I’m thinking lack of air movement is affecting proper furnace operation. It is not unheard of that the ducts (flexible cheap) can become disconnected from the duct work. Pull off your access panel to gain access to the furnace and duct work. Don't be shocked at the rats nest of wiring you will find. Any flex ducts that you find loose or disconnected should be secured back to the distribution manifold (a term I use loosely to describe the jerry rigged system). If you find any that are loose, this will definitely help.
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Post by ronc on Jun 4, 2021 16:25:30 GMT -5
Message directly from KZ: The best way to raise and lower it is without someone on the bed the resistance of the weight of the person can cause binding. Respectfully, this defeats the purpose of a tilting bed.
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Post by ronc on Jun 2, 2021 13:29:34 GMT -5
No RV on demand water heater runs on electricity. Too much current required. In our sticks and bricks we had an electric on demand water heater (Seisco) and it required it's own 200 amp panel ...
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Post by ronc on May 28, 2021 14:17:23 GMT -5
I have a couple of friends who installed this ... it truly does increase the airflow out of the DUCTS ... but completely blocks air flow out of the quick cool dumps (if you have them). Pretty straight forward installation. Grand Design is now installing them at the factory ... from what I understand.
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Post by ronc on May 28, 2021 12:20:07 GMT -5
You need to get one like this digital not analog like Ron said. Not cheap but they work, wire for wire replacement so pretty fool proof. Got two of the analogs in my shop as I have changed then in my last two 5W's.
X2 ... exactly 😎
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