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Post by ronc on May 23, 2021 23:32:38 GMT -5
What doesn’t make sense?
you pull onto the CAT scale and put your truck front axle on the first pad, your truck rear axle on the second pad and both or your trailers axles on the third pad. This gives you your FAW, your RAW and your trailers total axle weight. Pull forward enough to put your trailers front axle on pad #2, which was the pad your truck’s rear axle was, and your trailers rear axle on the third pad where both axles were ... “splitting” the trailers axles ... this gives you how much of get the total trailers weight is on the front axle and how much of it is on the rear axle. The third weigh is the one where you pull around and weigh again with one set of the trailers tires off the weigh pads, but with the axle wheels still split. By subtracting the difference between the split front and rear axle weights from the total front and rear axle weights, you get the individual wheel weights. If this still doesn’t make sense, give me a call.
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Post by ronc on May 23, 2021 14:34:38 GMT -5
An analog thermostat is notoriously inaccurate. I replaced both of mine with digital that look just like these and appear to be OEM. They control the temp + or - 1 degree of set point.
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Post by ronc on May 20, 2021 16:24:06 GMT -5
Depending on floor plan, the weight will often follow the kitchen. In my case (381REF)my kitchen is on the driver's side, as is my heavy king mattress and the factory installed 5kw generator, propane bottles, 12 gallon HWH, etc.
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Post by ronc on May 17, 2021 17:19:14 GMT -5
How to get individual wheel weights using a CAT scale ...
The ideal way is to get it done by people who do that all the time with special weighing pads. They are often found at various rallies around the country. The "do it yourself method" is to go to a regular CAT scale, found at many truck stops, and after weighing the whole rig, pull the trailer forward until the front axle of the trailer is on the weigh pad of the one that the trucks rear wheels were on and the back trailer axle remains on the trailer pad (this is called splitting the axles). After this is done, back the rig up (or pull forward and swing around for the final weigh) and maneuver the trailer so that the tailer axles are again split, but one side of the trailer's axles are OFF the weighing pads (I use the driver side tires to be off the scale, because I can see them best using my mirrors). In this way you'll have the front trailer axle total weight, the rear trailer axle total weight (obtained when you first "split the axles"). Now subtract the one side weight of each axle (from when you spit them with one set of side tires off the weigh pads). This will give you (with a little math) the front truck axle weight, the rear truck axle weight, the front trailer total axle weight, the rear trailer total axle weight, and after the math, you'll have each trailer tires individual weights.
This requires some skill to put one side of the trailer wheels off the pads and be split at the same time ... so if you aren't adept at maneuvering the trailer in tight spaces best not to try this. I have done it and while it yields the individual wheel weights, it will require that you pay for three weighs ... the first "regular" weighing, the first split axle weighing and finally the split axle weighing with one set of trailer tires off the side of the weighing pads. Have a spotter, and if this exceeds your comfort level of trailer/truck control don't do it. Probably should go inside first to tell the scale operator what you are intending to do, as he/she will need to co-operate with you to get this done. Sometimes, best to weigh the whole thing, then pull forward to split the axles ... then pull off the scales to allow others to move on, then pull back on the scale to obtain the final split axle with one side of the trailer off the weigh pads to get your final numbers.
Good luck.
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Post by ronc on May 17, 2021 16:58:42 GMT -5
There is a benefit to running the correct pressure for the load (based on the tire charts). If I run 125 psi (maximum cold pressure on the side of the tire), my rig experiences a much rougher ride than if I use the chart recommended pressure of 100 psi. But since this does not fit in your view ... good luck. BTW ... I have a Ford F350 dually. The manufacturer's recommended max load pressures are 75 psi for front tires and 65 psi for the rear (all 6 tires are exactly the same) ... on the side of the tire it says the max cold pressure is 80 psi. If you look at your truck (or your car), you probably will see the same. They do that because at their recommended pressures the tires carry their max load. But do what you want. I did a little more research based on your input and you're correct. I just need to get my trailer weighed and see what I need to inflate my trailer tires to for that particular load. I assume the tire chart is cold pressures correct? Thx When you weigh your rig ... you will need to get a wheel by wheel weight on each trailer tire. Use the tire pressure chart to determine the correct pressure for your heaviest tire ... then inflate all tires to that pressure. There is a way to get individual wheel weights on a CAT scale. I have explained this before so you can search this forum for that process. If you can't find it let me know, and I'll re-post the process. And yes, the tire pressure chart is cold pressures. Obviously, you would need to find your tire manufacturer's tire pressure chart. I have Goodyear, so not sure how to find Westlake, or Trailer King, or other brands.
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Post by ronc on May 13, 2021 14:06:14 GMT -5
What you actually run ... not the max cold pressure printed on the tire. My tires are G114H rated 17.5" Goodyears. Max pressure on the tire is 125 psi. I have 8K axles (4K on each wheel). I run them at 100 psi because on the chart, 100 psi is the correct pressure to carry 4,000 lbs. So my "normal" is 100 PSI. I don't play around with deflating and inflating numbers based on the current load. The recommended tire pressure is the max cold pressure. If I keep my tires at that pressure when I hit the road, I really don't see where I'm going to have any problems let alone any benefit from deflating them based on the current load. I don't do that for my car/truck so I'm not going to start with my fiver. There is a benefit to running the correct pressure for the load (based on the tire charts). If I run 125 psi (maximum cold pressure on the side of the tire), my rig experiences a much rougher ride than if I use the chart recommended pressure of 100 psi. But since this does not fit in your view ... good luck. BTW ... I have a Ford F350 dually. The manufacturer's recommended max load pressures are 75 psi for front tires and 65 psi for the rear (all 6 tires are exactly the same) ... on the side of the tire it says the max cold pressure is 80 psi. If you look at your truck (or your car), you probably will see the same. They do that because at their recommended pressures the tires carry their max load. But do what you want.
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Post by ronc on May 11, 2021 16:30:53 GMT -5
What you actually run ... not the max cold pressure printed on the tire. My tires are G114H rated 17.5" Goodyears. Max pressure on the tire is 125 psi cold. I have 8K axles (4K on each wheel). I run them at 100 psi because on the chart, 100 psi is the correct pressure to carry 4,000 lbs. So my "normal" is 100 PSI.
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Post by ronc on Apr 23, 2021 11:45:26 GMT -5
TST Manual suggest leaving temperature at 158 for all tire types. High pressure should be 20-25% more and Low Pressure at 10% less than normal tire pressure. X2
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Post by ronc on Apr 15, 2021 14:42:13 GMT -5
12 gallons get us both through with electric add the gas for faster recovery. I'm with you Edd. I'll keep the old fashioned system. Never a problem with enough hot water for the both of us. I agree with the value of "the old fashioned system". We had a Truma AquaGo on demand water heater for the last 5 years. It was great until it wasn't ... mobile RV techs don't have parts for them, most can't work on them, and any needed parts are a $100 overnight charge away. Truma has a goofy after sales support system that makes for a good campfire discussion over wine. At any rate, I pulled mine out and went back to the gas/electric Suburban 12 gallon that was original equipment. Seems to provide plenty of hot water and every mobile RV tech can work on them, carry parts for them and understand how they work. On demand hot water is a good idea, but the whole ownership experience was not satisfactory ... for us.
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Post by ronc on Apr 15, 2021 14:26:13 GMT -5
Another comment in favor of two big batteries ... your residential refrigerator isn't the only thing that relies on battery power. Your slides and your leveling system also run off 12V DC. The greater capacity of two big batteries will ensure those systems operate smoothly. A battery (or battery bank) with good capacity will keep the motors of the leveling system and slides from overheating ... which will happen if the battery voltage drops too much during the operation of those systems.
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Post by ronc on Apr 9, 2021 14:55:30 GMT -5
I have the same residential refrigerator and I have two BIG AGM (210 amp hours each) batteries. Mine are both 12v so they are connected in parallel. If you used two 6v batteries, they would need to be connected in series. Thanks for the response. I didn't think one battery was sufficient. Does your refrigerator stay cold when you are on a long trip. Yes it does stay cold. When traveling, the truck supplies a slight charge to the batteries, which power the inverter, which provides AC for the frig. So when we're on the road, the refrigerator is running, so it does stay cold.
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Post by ronc on Mar 29, 2021 14:35:10 GMT -5
Oh the tire pressure, Mine is set to alarm at 100 psi, since my cold temp is 110 psi. What is your cold pressure? My tpms said to set them 10 psi lower. Tire pressure has two alarms (for pressure) ... one for too low and one for too high. My cold tire pressure is 100 psi, my low alarm is 90 and my high alarm is 125.
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Post by ronc on Feb 2, 2021 15:00:32 GMT -5
Ours is labeled "porch light" for amber and "flood light" for white.
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Post by ronc on Feb 2, 2021 14:54:15 GMT -5
this is updated (corrected) info.
I have since learned that the recommended charge amps for an AGM battery bank is 20% of the battery banks capacity (30% max). In my case, each battery has 210 amps at 20 hour discharge rate ... two batteries means my 12V AGM battery band provides 420 amps @ 20 hour discharge rate. 20% of that is 84 amps (with a 30% max of 126 amps). The Xantrex I have can provide a max of 100 amps ... so that's my answer, it’s about 24%, right in the middle of optimal and maximum. The converter actually has an AGM setting, which will auto select the correct voltage .. so I think I've got it.
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Post by ronc on Jan 25, 2021 14:46:33 GMT -5
I am installing a Xantrex Truecharge2 converter. It has setable maximum charge amps. The range is from 20 to 100. Those who have done similar ... what is the recommended charging level for AGM batteries ... seems to me that you don't want to get up in the high ranges, as the rig is only plugged in to 50 amp service. Thanks in advance.
Ron
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Post by ronc on Jan 1, 2021 12:14:18 GMT -5
I bought it at Target or Walmart. Can’t remember brand. I put it in while oven heated. Just remember to take it out of oven before you hit the road. I think it would slide around and maybe break if left in the oven. Pretty sure ours was Walmart. It will break on the road ... ours did.
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Post by ronc on Dec 25, 2020 19:34:52 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I guess the switch probably is not even hooked up behind the panel. Might be worth investigating but it looks like I have bigger fish to fry at the moment with this trailer. I have a 2017 381REF. It has two gray tanks (the main is the bathroom and washing machine, the secondary is the kitchen) I have only one light for the gray tank level ... that switch allows you to change which gray tank the level indicator measures.
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Post by ronc on Nov 26, 2020 15:36:26 GMT -5
Interesting. A gooseneck hitch would free up the bed for sure. I’m old school and tend to lean on products with a proven track record. As you know, I am a big believer in air ride hitches. An air ride pin box is better than nothing, but a full on air ride hitch is the ticket. I see the nose of my rig gently bobbing up and down as our great roads try to beat our rigs to death. Every little bit of softening has to help. The down side to my “Trailer Saver” air ride hitch is $$. They are probably x2 the price of a quality rigid hitch. The smallest TS 1 is rated 14K with 2500 pin but needs rails, the one for the puck systems 28,000 lb. 5,000 lb. way more than than I need. The TS-1 would be find if I had more weight, I know your 5W is a lot heavier than mine. Yeah, my pin is 3,700 lbs.
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Post by ronc on Nov 24, 2020 19:39:05 GMT -5
We have State Farm in Maryland. I'm calling tomorrow to get the low down on if we are required to pay commercial rates. Just saw this an thought of you: linkInteresting. A gooseneck hitch would free up the bed for sure. I’m old school and tend to lean on products with a proven track record. As you know, I am a big believer in air ride hitches. An air ride pin box is better than nothing, but a full on air ride hitch is the ticket. I see the nose of my rig gently bobbing up and down as our great roads try to beat our rigs to death. Every little bit of softening has to help. The down side to my “Trailer Saver” air ride hitch is $$. They are probably x2 the price of a quality rigid hitch.
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Post by ronc on Nov 13, 2020 14:23:52 GMT -5
FWIW ... I gave up trying to make all the "trailer and DirecTV and Winegard Travlr" stuff work. It was a recurring problem and source of great frustration. So I went to streaming with two Apple 4K devices (one for each TV) and YouTube TV. All the cable issues are over. We use LOTS of data ... like 400 GB per month, but we have real no kidding unlimited data on 3 different hot spots on 3 different carriers (AT&T, Verizon, and Sprint/T-Mobile). We spread the data around on each carrier so we don't get tagged as a high user by any one carrier. We spend less $$ than we did with DirecTV and I'm much happier. With streaming, we can be under the shade trees with no need to worry about a "clear view of the southern sky". With our 3 carriers providing backup plans ... we almost always have good internet and therefore good streaming. It takes about 5 GB download to stream High Def TV and 3 GB down to have "standard DVD quality". It's a whole different way to approach this problem, but I thought I would offer it up for consideration. There is not one piece of coax or any splitters in my TV watching ... never anything corroding, vibrating loose, rain interference, tree limbs in the way ... nothing. I am happy we made the change.
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