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Post by lynnmor on Dec 1, 2023 7:32:23 GMT -5
That trailer has an extremely weak frame with the main "I-beams" made from three pieces of stock welded together. I would hesitate to put a second coat of paint on the cheesy thing.
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Post by lynnmor on Oct 24, 2023 16:10:46 GMT -5
Yes, I replaced one on 2011, I think nothing changed. There were only three support bars under the tank so I added more. If you travel with water most likely it spills out of the vent hoses and you have little left at the end of the day. This would be a good time to correct the problems. I added a fill port to the top of the tank that aligned with the furnace compartment. From there I ran a large diameter gravity fill hose over the wheel housing and out the side using a gravity fill port. A vent hose ran there as well. Whatever you do, the vent hoses out the bottom must be eliminated and a new hose needs to come out the side well above water level. In order to use all of the water in the tank the supply hose needs to be moved from the tank side and attached to the drain line. I had tons of photos on Photobucket till they became a garbage company, if you want to do a lot of work to make things right, I can post numerous photos as needed.
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Post by lynnmor on Oct 23, 2023 11:14:21 GMT -5
You only need a sealant like Ace pipe thread compound on the pipe threads, the barbs don't need it with the exception of the large diameter gravity fill hose where silicone sealer will work. Hopefully KZ didn't attach PEX tubing to hose barbs, they do that in some applications. Be sure that the water tank is properly supported and there is no stress on the attached plumbing, often there is minimal support. Post photos if you need addition input.
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Post by lynnmor on Oct 12, 2023 19:07:18 GMT -5
You can purchase a simple hand pump system that attaches to the city water port. Pump antifreeze in while someone opens one faucet at a time and watches for pink. Don't forget the toilet and outside shower. If you have a black tank flusher, attach the pump to that input and give it a few pumps. Pour some pink in the sink drains.
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Post by lynnmor on Oct 1, 2023 9:34:28 GMT -5
What exactly is "I installed a 600watt 400Ah dollar system" If you are actually pulling that kind of a load there should be heat or smoke from somewhere.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 20, 2023 19:48:15 GMT -5
Any local garage can do this simple job, you don't need an RV dealer or the high cost.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 20, 2023 2:59:45 GMT -5
It might just be easier to attach the old lines to the new faucet and forget about cutoff valves. Of course it would be easier and cheaper, that is why it was built in such a half azz way.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 20, 2023 2:52:30 GMT -5
As I said, like a model T Please don't compare this junk to a model T, at least the auto industry continued to make improvements over the years, unlike the RV industry.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 18, 2023 21:03:02 GMT -5
Nearly all standard household faucets will work. As far as the water connections go, consider installing valves under the sink and use standard supply lines. When you are done you won't have to shut down the entire trailer to do work on that faucet. I added shut off valves on all my fixtures.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 17, 2023 18:21:44 GMT -5
You will get all kinds of answers, the correct answer is it all depends on the factors involved.
Trailer axles use the cheapest Chinese wheel bearings they can find, I have had some begin to fail immediately because of the extremely poor workmanship. You can improve the situation immensely by tossing out the junk and install Timken brand bearings. Also if you have 3500 pound axles, know that the spindle design leaves no significant shoulder support for the inside bearing and they may not hold adjustment or alignment for very long. Never mix grease types and only use grease specifically made for wheel bearings, not the products that mention bearings and numerous other applications. As you can see, there is no good answer when you are dealing with low quality components. Good Luck.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 17, 2023 9:55:08 GMT -5
There should be a sticker on the side of the trailer showing the tire and wheel information.
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 8, 2023 17:01:57 GMT -5
Sounds like you have a connection between #4 and #6 in the plug. Usually red (+12 volt) and green (right turn light).
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 3, 2023 16:56:22 GMT -5
Do many RVs have dual battery setups now? The number and size of batteries depends on how much of a load you will put on them and for the length of time you will be camped without electric power. What matters in your issue is that the battery needs to be fully charged when operating slides and such. If you do not dry camp (camping without electric hookup), you only need one good battery.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 31, 2023 18:23:07 GMT -5
Do you have a good, strong battery? A failing battery will load the converter more and also won't help much to get your slides out.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 25, 2023 13:49:22 GMT -5
Close the door on a dollar bill at multiple places to see if the gasket is sealing. This has been a hot and humid summer so frost can be expected, especially if the door is opened too frequently.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 24, 2023 18:46:21 GMT -5
Have you inspected or replaced the anode rod yearly?
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 22, 2023 8:37:42 GMT -5
Remove the outside vents and verify that the refrigerator was installed correctly per the installation manual. Then make sure that the area is properly insulated and if debris is blocking the venting, use a flashlight and mirror.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 22, 2023 8:27:33 GMT -5
Find the VIN tag on the trailer and make sure that your owners card and title match to stay out of legal trouble.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 21, 2023 8:38:36 GMT -5
I ordered this one: PD4135K Progressive Dynamics 4100 Series RV Converter w/ Charge Wizard and AC/DC Distribution Panel - 35 Amp . It's the recommended replacement (by BestConverter) for what we have. BestConverter wouldn't steer you wrong, but I am surprised that they didn't offer a simpler upgrade and a step up in power. It should work fine but you will have some spaghetti to connect.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 19, 2023 17:28:55 GMT -5
I'm with you on the manual awning, the power awnings are less than useless.
First, don't pay the crazy price for a Lippert motor, aftermarket ones are available for cheap. You might find that a window crank motor from an auto parts store is the best option. Compare a Dorman 742-141 to your old one.
It is possible that your bend is overloading the motor and should be addressed.
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