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Post by bamobile on Oct 13, 2015 14:59:36 GMT -5
Hey everyone. Just curious if anyone has any issues like mine and what you might recommend to fix it. I'm a new owner of a 2012 KZ stoneridge 36rk so I'm not sure exactly how this system works. I'm having problems with the water pressure in the kitchen (which is in the rear of the unit). The water pressure in the kitchen is extremely low, barley a trickle which makes washing dishes a pain. The water pressure in the front of the unit near the washer/dryer hook ups is extremely high...I could shoot water 20 yards or so if I cranked it wide open. The water pressure in the bathroom (middle of the unit) is perfect. Just curious if anyone has had this problem before and if so what fixed the problem.
- Ben
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Rigs
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 23 
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Post by Rigs on Oct 13, 2015 15:38:00 GMT -5
I've never heard of this, so following to learn. Do you have a pressure regulator installed with the water connection? If not, you should probably add one. Granted new campers are better than older ones in managing water presser, but it's better to be on the safe side as water is a trailer's nemesis! www.etrailer.com/tv-review-camco-water-pressure-regulator-cam40055.aspx (I assume you are not using the potable tank, right?) You may have an obstruction or a shutoff valve is only partially opened somewhere between the bathroom and the kitchen. |
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Post by shortlance on Oct 13, 2015 16:33:39 GMT -5
We have a 2012 Stoneridge RK and the water pressure in the kitchen isn't that great but not much less then in the bathroom. I think the supply lines to the kitchen could have been a little larger to increase the volume of water in the kitchen sink.
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Post by northidahohunter on Oct 13, 2015 17:06:18 GMT -5
If you are talking about running off of city connection then something to think about would be the amount of pressure loss. There is a formula for figuring out pressure loss per foot. Also how many connections are in between the city hook up and the faucet. Connections meaning T's, new sections of pipe if its not continous, also the flow rate of the faucet itself. I am not familiar with your unit but a lot of RV's will have faucets with 2-2.5gpm max. You can change these faucets out if you want with ones from the hardware store. Just make sure the measurements are correct.
Now if your talking about running water off your pump then all the above applies in addition to the fact that the pump first has to lift the water out if tank and then push it to the faucet. The farther the faucet the harder time it has.
One of things to think about is if this is an issue that has been this way since new there is a possibility that something is stuck in the line from the factory or the hose is kinked partially somewhere. With a screen on the city water and the screen on the pump it would be hard for anything large to get into the line after it was built.
The pressure regulator that was talked about is usually located in the city water connection. You remove the screen. Very simple just pull it out usually. And then there is a push button there with O Rings. DONT PUSH IT without first letting all the pressure out of the lines by turning the faucets on. There really is no reason to do this any ways unless you are winterizing. If you push it while pressure is in the lines then O Rings may get airborne and land about 50 yards behind you!
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cmore
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 34
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Post by cmore on Nov 10, 2015 22:13:01 GMT -5
Had same problem and it turned out to be the faucet strainer was full of trash. This with a nearly new camper. Once I cleaned it out, pressure was normal.
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