Post by myredracer on Sept 16, 2015 22:48:47 GMT -5
This is an installation I did of 3 recessed electric heaters in our 2014 Spree 262RKS just before the start of the camping season here. The first photo is a King Pic-a-watt heater above our bed set at 250 watts. The 2nd photo is the same King heater model installed in the lower space of the bathroom vanity in an otherwise wasted space, also set at 250 watts. The King heaters have a tangential (squirrel cage) blower that makes them very quiet compared to an axial fan. The 3rd photo is a Stelpro kickspace heater, typically installed in the kickspace under kitchen and bathroom cabinets, and is a fixed 1000 watt unit. I installed it just below the range where there was vacant space. The 4th photo is one of 3 wall mounted low voltage thermostats - one in bedroom, one in bathroom and one in the kitchen/living area. The installation of the heaters meets all safety clearance requirements and NEC/CEC requirements. The heaters *could* be operated with the slide retracted if ever needed and not affect clearance requirements.
Since we have a 30 amp service, in order to prevent the 30 amp breaker in the converter panel or campground pedestal from tripping when an appliance is plugged in, I designed a control unit that monitors the total of all other loads in the trailer and if it gets to a preset level, a current sensing relay instantaneously shuts off the power to the heating circuit. When the total of other loads drops back below the preset level, the heater circuit is turned back on by the sensing relay. We are able to plug in any appliance (highest is hair dryer rated 15.6 amps) with all heaters running and the 30 amp service is not affected. Each heater is controlled by a low voltage relay in the control panel.
To prevent the heaters from turning back on when our trailer is plugged back in at home (or elsewhere), I installed a latching relay in the control panel that requires a momentary contact switch to be pressed before the heating control unit will operate the heaters again. This prevents the possibility of wasting power at home when the trailer is parked waiting for the next camping trip.
All low voltage and 120 volt wiring is installed totally concealed and run through the ceiling cavity, inside walls and under the shower. I utilized holes in the top plate of walls that the factory made for wiring to get wiring to the thermostats. The 5th photo shows how the factory installed the 120 volt and low voltage wiring behind the converter panel. In order to make space for my control panel, I tidied up the factory wiring. The last photo shows the control panel and reworked factory wiring.
Having a heater in each of the three rooms/areas provides very even temperature from one end of the trailer to the other. The bathroom is nice and toasty warm and having a heater maintaining a steady temp. in the bedroom all night long is really nice. The heaters are all VERY quiet and do not disrupt watching TV or sleeping, unlike a furnace. We never have to deal with a heater sitting on the floor and getting in the way, tripping over a cord or having to find a place to store one. We have not had to use the furnace all season in outside temps. down to around 36-38F at night.
The heaters have worked flawlessly all season and a breaker has never tripped. When in Reno recently, the air conditioner was used during the day when 100+ F and when it was cold outside overnight, the heaters took over and kept the interior nice and warm automatically.
Gil, Deb and Dougal the Springer Spaniel
2014 KZ Spree 262RKS
2009 F250
Since we have a 30 amp service, in order to prevent the 30 amp breaker in the converter panel or campground pedestal from tripping when an appliance is plugged in, I designed a control unit that monitors the total of all other loads in the trailer and if it gets to a preset level, a current sensing relay instantaneously shuts off the power to the heating circuit. When the total of other loads drops back below the preset level, the heater circuit is turned back on by the sensing relay. We are able to plug in any appliance (highest is hair dryer rated 15.6 amps) with all heaters running and the 30 amp service is not affected. Each heater is controlled by a low voltage relay in the control panel.
To prevent the heaters from turning back on when our trailer is plugged back in at home (or elsewhere), I installed a latching relay in the control panel that requires a momentary contact switch to be pressed before the heating control unit will operate the heaters again. This prevents the possibility of wasting power at home when the trailer is parked waiting for the next camping trip.
All low voltage and 120 volt wiring is installed totally concealed and run through the ceiling cavity, inside walls and under the shower. I utilized holes in the top plate of walls that the factory made for wiring to get wiring to the thermostats. The 5th photo shows how the factory installed the 120 volt and low voltage wiring behind the converter panel. In order to make space for my control panel, I tidied up the factory wiring. The last photo shows the control panel and reworked factory wiring.
Having a heater in each of the three rooms/areas provides very even temperature from one end of the trailer to the other. The bathroom is nice and toasty warm and having a heater maintaining a steady temp. in the bedroom all night long is really nice. The heaters are all VERY quiet and do not disrupt watching TV or sleeping, unlike a furnace. We never have to deal with a heater sitting on the floor and getting in the way, tripping over a cord or having to find a place to store one. We have not had to use the furnace all season in outside temps. down to around 36-38F at night.
The heaters have worked flawlessly all season and a breaker has never tripped. When in Reno recently, the air conditioner was used during the day when 100+ F and when it was cold outside overnight, the heaters took over and kept the interior nice and warm automatically.
Gil, Deb and Dougal the Springer Spaniel
2014 KZ Spree 262RKS
2009 F250
