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Post by j0kerzw1ld on Jul 12, 2012 9:54:58 GMT -5
Are any of my fellow Spree owners having issues with keeping your unit cool? I do live in the South where it does get pretty HOT.  However, I am having issue keeping my unit cool. The last trip we took over the 4th of July the outside temperatures would reach about 97 to 99 degrees. During the hottest part of the day it would be 91 degrees in the camper. That seems a bit excessive to me. I would hope that we could keep about a 20 degree difference from inside to the outside. The unit would cool down at night. The AC is blowing cool air and I have taken it in once already to the dealer for them just to tell me everything is working fine. This is a 2011 model. |
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Post by joecamper on Jul 12, 2012 11:22:34 GMT -5
There are many ways to help out the AC, but you are right about the amount of cool down. Most forums that discuss single AC use say that about 20 degrees is the norm. A lot of people put those tinted things on their windows and say that it helps. Also, keep the shades drawn, especially on the sunny side. Most agree that shade is the biggest help.
Hope that helped give you some ideas.
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Post by gasman on Jul 15, 2012 15:54:16 GMT -5
I was just about to post about this issue.
I just bought my kz 196s last thursday. Took it out this weekend to a local campground for it's shakedown cruise. Ugh it was hot inside. I even used a fan to try and move the air, no luck. If I stick my hand in front of the air, sometimes it feels cool, other times not so much. I have it plugged in right now at my house to see if there is any change.
I thought it would be better to have the air on the wall instead of the ceiling. Now i don't think so.
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Post by captainjohn413 on Jul 15, 2012 21:29:08 GMT -5
20 degree split is what you are looking for, we have our roof vents blocked off by the pillows that are available. 100 outside we are 80 inside and the unit never shuts down until the sun does. The insullation is not enough. Our 310 is out in direct sunlight. Get the pillows they will help take the load off.
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Post by shadyskins on Jul 25, 2012 9:24:42 GMT -5
I have a 2011 321BHS and the air can definitely be colder. We were in 105 degree weather last week and it was comfortable, but still a wee bit warm. I was hinting to the wife that we should consider a second unit. At night it would become very cold.
91 in the camper seems very warm. Did you have any shade on your rig or were you in full sun?
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Post by ozandus on Jul 26, 2012 10:32:33 GMT -5
The AC is blowing cool air and I have taken it in once already to the dealer for them just to tell me everything is working fine. This is a 2011 model. It probably is ... with outside temps consistently well over 100F where you camp this most likely is simply heat load issue. You have a couple of options, one being to upgrade to a 15,000 BTU unit (assuming your current model is 13,500 BTU) or add a second unit ... however, if it were me I think I'd be inclined to go a third route and simply invest in a stand alone portable A/C that can sit on the floor of your trailer and vent it out of one of the windows. In fact, I recently considered this myself for our own Spree 240BH-LX, not for additional cooling (because our's will turn our smaller rig into a meat locker  ) but as an option for being able to more easily start & run A/C when we're dry camping and I'd like to use our Honda EU2000i as my source of power. Portable units ranging from ~ 5000 BTU up to ~ 14,000 BTU are available and just might be the solution you're looking for without having to tear into the trailer itself. If you someday later sell your rig you'll also be able to keep this portable A/C unit whereas any unit mounted to the trailer will have to go with it. |
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Post by spadoctor on Aug 9, 2012 7:55:39 GMT -5
There is a problem with all rv A/C systems....poor installation. If you remove your cieling outlet grilles you will see there is no seal between the "attic" space and the duct. This needs to be closed up yo prevent hot air from mixing with the cold and vise versa. I use the aluminum duct tape and go all around folding it over up to 1/2inch onto the cieling and into the duct. Second if you measure the thickness of the "attic" space at the grilles you will find that the grills actually extend into the duct wayyyyyy too far. I trim 1/2inch off each duct flange using a pair of tin snips. You will greatly increase air flow and improve the ac. I just did my new 321RKS and it took about 90 minuites.
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Post by spadoctor on Aug 9, 2012 7:59:17 GMT -5
One thing I forgot...remove the return grille and the sheetmetal cover and add more sealant tape to the duct connections. Every one of mine has been poorly done at the factory. Then add tape to the insulated divider...reinstall the sheetmetal cover and seal with tape and finally seal all the way around the unit to the cieling to avoid mixing hot and cold air. While you have the grille off clean the filter and snug the 4 mounting bolts...5/16" hex.
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Post by huskerr on Aug 9, 2012 21:23:30 GMT -5
We also have a 2011 32BHS with the same problem with the A/C. When it's 100 outside it's 89-91 in the camper. I keep the unit clean both inside and out. We spent $300 and had all the windows tinted thinking that would help but it didn't. Had an A/C tech look it over and he said the unit is too small for the square footage of the camper. Dealer said the unit works fine.
Another issue I think is the location of the vents. Mine are 2' from the entertainment center and 30" apart, none by the "U" dinette, one in the bathroom and two in the bunk house that are above the top bunk on the bathroom side. So if anyone sleeps there when the camper cools off they freeze.
Going to try and call the factory and see what they say.
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Post by tiberiom on Aug 31, 2012 21:38:26 GMT -5
have a2013 322 bunkhouse with no a/c problems.i live in florida. the a/c should cool the unit. check the temperature of the a/c coming out of the vents when it is running.
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Post by huskerr on Sept 19, 2012 20:16:46 GMT -5
Well the weather has cooled some. Still having issues with my A/C. Was 85 outside and 80 inside. Checked temp between unit and the first duct and it was 18 degrees different, just what Neil at KZ says it should be. My windows are mirror tinted, and pillows in the skylights. Took the diffuser off the closest vent to the unit and there was no difference in air flow with the diffuser off. Dealer said we could change to a bigger unit if I pay the difference. No idea what that will cost yet and want to visit with Neil to see if KZ will assist.
Anyone have issues with the front of the sofa falling down all the time? If you do get two eye hooks and place them at the top, mine are the spring loaded hook. Finally the thing stays closed and all I have to do is raise the sofa seat up to release.
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Post by snayte on Oct 9, 2012 7:18:23 GMT -5
I was thinking the A/C My 261RKS could be better but will cool the camper and keep it cool in 90+ degree heat. It does take about 3 hours to get the camper cooled from the mid 90s to 75 or so though so we keep it running while we are away for the day.
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Gary
Newbie RV’er
2015 Spree 300RLS. 2015 Chevrolet 2500 High Country Duramax.
Posts: 43 
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Post by Gary on Jul 12, 2015 17:24:29 GMT -5
There is a problem with all rv A/C systems....poor installation. If you remove your cieling outlet grilles you will see there is no seal between the "attic" space and the duct. This needs to be closed up yo prevent hot air from mixing with the cold and vise versa. I use the aluminum duct tape and go all around folding it over up to 1/2inch onto the cieling and into the duct. Second if you measure the thickness of the "attic" space at the grilles you will find that the grills actually extend into the duct wayyyyyy too far. I trim 1/2inch off each duct flange using a pair of tin snips. You will greatly increase air flow and improve the ac. I just did my new 321RKS and it took about 90 minuites. I like your input on this issue. I also want to replace a couple of the ceiling grills in the living area with ones that I can close to I get more air into the bedroom of our Spree 300 RLS. There is only one vent in the bedroom and its not enough. Also you mentioned in the next post about the air intake mixing with the cold air. Our Spree is brand new and last week we were in about 95 degree weather and we have a 15K AC. When I took out the filter I could feel the cold air leaking into the intake. I plan to seal it up with that metal tape you talk about. I did measure input vs output two different times and was quite impressed. 26 degrees once and when it was hotter in the day I got 32 degrees. The input was 88 and the output was 56 so you can tell it was quite warm inside the unit. When I used my infrared temp gun it was not correct at all so I used an AC probe from an auto parts store. I will check the other grills and cut them down if necessary and seal them up better if necessary as you suggest. It is kind of sad that I have to look for ways to improve the performance of my brand new trailer. I know your post is a few years old but it gave me some great ideas. Thanks, Gary |
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Spree 321
Jul 12, 2015 19:24:59 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by vagov on Jul 12, 2015 19:24:59 GMT -5
I was just about to post about this issue. I just bought my kz 196s last thursday. Took it out this weekend to a local campground for it's shakedown cruise. Ugh it was hot inside. I even used a fan to try and move the air, no luck. If I stick my hand in front of the air, sometimes it feels cool, other times not so much. I have it plugged in right now at my house to see if there is any change. I thought it would be better to have the air on the wall instead of the ceiling. Now i don't think so. i am having the same problem with my 196. The air feels just cool in my opinion. My old popup which you would think had more air leaks in it through the canvas. Would freeze you out. If you find a better silution please let us know |
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abs
Weekender RV’er
Posts: 65
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Post by abs on Jul 16, 2015 15:41:55 GMT -5
AC Problems in my Spree 32BHS,
I had all the same problems as the folks above, but one to add. I pulled the interior cover off to tape up all the gaps around the duct work and noticed that the panel that divides the supply and exhaust side of the ac unit had tilted greatly to the exhaust side and all of my cold supply air was venting to the outside. My unit ran nonstop all summer last year because of this. Screwing the panel in place, taping up all the small holes in the unit itself and placing foam rubber in the gaps in the vents in the ceiling to keep the cold air from getting into the roof space has made a huge difference. Now it cycles normal and no problem cooling on the hottest days. The panel not being in as it should have been was the main problem. Hope this helps all that reads it. ABS
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) but as an option for being able to more easily start & run A/C when we're dry camping and I'd like to use our Honda EU2000i as my source of power. Portable units ranging from ~ 5000 BTU up to ~ 14,000 BTU are available and just might be the solution you're looking for without having to tear into the trailer itself. If you someday later sell your rig you'll also be able to keep this portable A/C unit whereas any unit mounted to the trailer will have to go with it.
