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Post by capemayal on Sept 7, 2024 14:06:30 GMT -5
Carefree awning - worst I've ever owned. I've replaced the roller tube lights twice in last 2 years. I like the lights, but Carefree's idea is pretty bad, IMHO.
They're not working again. I want to mount LED's under the awning rail.
The wire coming from the inside switch is not in the best condition. It's really thin and stranded it looks aluminum.
Has anyone pulled a new wire from the outside, where the original wire comes out, to the switch inside? I'm wondering if its stapled inside the walls, or if there's some routing that doesn't' go down and across the underside of the floor. I'm hoping I attach new wire, from either inside or outside, attached old to new and pull that way.
Thanks, Al
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luscombet8f
Weekender RV’er
My 1949 Luscombe T8-F & 251RLT
Posts: 68
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Post by luscombet8f on Sept 8, 2024 19:04:22 GMT -5
If you're replacing the awning lights with a new stick-on LED strip... there is no magic in using the original wire routing, at least in my mind... (I'm imagining a LED strip running from back to front...) I don't know WHERE your current switch is, but why not make a new wire feed hole from as direct a spot as possible from the outside strip in to the old switch? Seal it up, of course.... Your mileage may vary.... but... just asking.
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Post by capemayal on Sept 9, 2024 7:33:41 GMT -5
True. I want to make sure the lights are not working. If they are - meaning the wiring is okay, then I'm finished.
But, if they're not, as I suspect, then yes, the strip lighting under the rail is the choice I've made.
My problem is that the wiring is so thin, I'm thinking less than 24, that it is very difficult to work with. The wire from inside the coach is not in good condition and should be replaced. So, the question is how it's routed and mounted during the rig's manufacture, and if a fresh wire can be connected or a can be pulled through from the fuse. Hope I worded that right.
Thanks,
Al
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Post by capemayal on Sept 12, 2024 21:58:10 GMT -5
I checked the voltage at the wire coming from the wall and down at the lights - nothing. I attached the wires using Wago connectors. So, I'm going to see if I can drop a new line with a fish. I will be doing the awning rail lights, but will need a good wire from the lights to the switch. Just to be sure, I replaced the fuse at the switch.
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Post by capemayal on Oct 22, 2024 15:26:19 GMT -5
I have verified that the awning lights are okay. I attached the lights to my car's battery and they worked.
I took them inside and they worked at the switch.
Trying to trace the wires is a nightmare. The wires from the switch are - blk/wht to the switch on and red/wht to the off. So far so good.
I was able to see where the wires came down into the comparment. That's where I get lost.
The wires that go outside are attached to 2 grn/wht wires - white wires of each goto the light's ground wire. The green goes to the positive side of the light's wire.
Question is - where the heck do these green/whte wires come from?
I thought maybe I could bypass that wire by going from the fused side of the switch right to the outside wires.
I've seen trailes being built where every wire is color coded but labeled along the way with a drawing provided. I wonder where KZ fell by the wayside?
Anybody have any solutions would be greatly appreciated!
Al
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Post by rvcouple on Oct 22, 2024 16:58:15 GMT -5
When you take the switch off the wall, try to pull the wires out of the wall. I found a 2 Amp inline fuse holder in the awning light wires on my trailer. That may be where your problem is.
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Post by capemayal on Oct 22, 2024 18:11:33 GMT -5
Yes, I found that the first time I pulled the panel. Since the wire, with the fuse, was attached to the "upper" position of the switch I thought that was the hot to the wires that go to the lights. Using a voltmeter confirmed that. I can only think that wires between the "on" position of the switch and the wires to the lights must have a short. Therein lies the problem. Tracing the wires from the "on" position out to the lights.
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Post by rvcouple on Oct 24, 2024 12:54:48 GMT -5
Yes, I found that the first time I pulled the panel. Since the wire, with the fuse, was attached to the "upper" position of the switch I thought that was the hot to the wires that go to the lights. Using a voltmeter confirmed that. I can only think that wires between the "on" position of the switch and the wires to the lights must have a short. Therein lies the problem. Tracing the wires from the "on" position out to the lights. There could also be a broken wire, if the fuse isn't blowing whenever you try to turn the lights on. Have you tried a resistance check on the wires between the awning lights and the switch? When I fixed my awning LEDs, I found I could pull about 10 - 12 inches of wire out from inside the camper. If you have a broken wire, it's highly unlikely, although not impossible, the wire broke where it's run inside the camper. The break, if there is one, is probably right were it exits the camper to get to the LEDs. Mine was well caulked with RTV at the exit point, but then was pinch between metal mounting parts of the awning. I cut out the damaged wires, drill a new hole to route the wires, tested that everything worked, and shoved as much wire as I could back inside the TT before applying more RTV. Been working since. |
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