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Post by connecttx on Apr 10, 2023 10:09:39 GMT -5
I have a Norcold N10DC in my 2020 Connect 261RL that takes 3 to 5 days to power on after pulling the trailer from storage and hooking up the 12v battery and connecting to shore power. I attempted to have it serviced while under warranty (now expired) and by the time the dealer got around to looking at it the 3 days elapsed and the frig came on when the button on the control panel was pushed. They then kept the trailer for 2 weeks and charged me a diagnostic fee since they could find no problem. The most recent tech checked and said there is 12v power to the control panel and fuse is good and says the frig needs to be replaced. Any thoughts on what the problem could be in lieu of a $1500 refrigerator replacement?
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Post by nvguy on Apr 10, 2023 22:46:04 GMT -5
I would ask the "tech" why the fridge needs to be replaced? Exactly what component failed? And this component can't be replaced? Maybe if the compressor is seized, but otherwise why replace the entire unit?
I don't understand why the refer has to wait 3-5 days to start, something isn't right here, is the battery fully charged? If the battery is low, the current needed charge the battery and start the refer may overwhelm the converter, so refer can't start until the battery is fully charged & that could take a few days.
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Post by connecttx on Apr 12, 2023 20:30:31 GMT -5
But doesn't the fact that the trailer is plugged into shore power take the battery charge or lack thereof out of the picture? And to answer the question most often I have put the battery on the charger at least one day prior to going to get the trailer from storage so the batter would be fully charged.
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Post by nvguy on Apr 13, 2023 0:18:18 GMT -5
Not really, the converter can only put out so many amps. Let's say it's 35 amps, if 20 amps are going to the battery, but the refer needs 20 amps to get the compressor started, then the compressor stalls or the breaker for the converter trips and eventually resets. After a few days eventually the battery has enough charge to handle the surge and the refer starts.
Unless you have load tested the battery and know it's fully charged, we don't know if there is enough amperage to start the refer. Don't believe the monitor panel.
Funny thing about RV's- the battery serves as a electrical cushion for the converter, they typically don't have a lot of surge power, so the battery provides that initial surge that runs electric tongue jacks and other high draw items.
Your tech should have checked the amp draw for the refer to see exactly what it's doing. To say that it has voltage so all is well is like a doctor telling a patient you have a pulse, so you're healthy.
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Post by 660catman on Apr 19, 2023 7:13:08 GMT -5
A true test for a batteries performance is to get it load tested. It could read full volts but amps is what’s needed for appliance startup. A lot smaller but I had an ATV battery fail the test but volts were good.
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Post by seeker on Jun 10, 2023 10:41:20 GMT -5
Just turn the battery off. Turn the fridge on the coldest setting and check it after 3 or 4 hours. If the fridge isnt cool then you need to check the output voltage and current on the converter. Is the fridge pulling any current? Find a 12 volt load tester and see if the converter is able to push its rated power. I have read stories of the control board in the fridge going out on these 12 volt units Mine so far has been problem free except it is slow to cool on startup
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Post by connecttx on Jun 17, 2023 14:29:24 GMT -5
I replaced the trailer battery this morning just on the off chance the 3-4 year old battery that came with this 2020 model year trailer had degraded in output. The new battery HAS NOT resolved the problem. I'm having a hard time with these posts understanding whether the problem is associated with the trailer components (converter, inverter, or whatever) or the refrigerator itself and its components. It worked fine in the past and has faded over time with not turning on. There appears to be power coming to the unit buy no lights inside and no blue light on the top bar.
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Post by nvguy on Jun 17, 2023 23:08:19 GMT -5
With a new battery, the variable of the battery is eliminated, so let's assume the converter and coach electrical is OK.
Here are what I would consider the key questions to ask.
We know the refrigerator has voltage, what is the voltage?
When the refrigerator is switched on, does the compressor start? If so, what is the amp draw? Is that within spec? (assuming the manufacturer lists that specification). What is the voltage when the compressor starts?
With all this info, along with being there (listening and touching components) a tech should be able to explain what the issue is, and most important if it can be fixed.
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Post by 660catman on Jun 24, 2023 8:08:14 GMT -5
I take it you’re not able to see any of the error codes because display doesn’t light up? The fridge will not work with less than 10.4 volts. Restart voltage required is 11.8. Norcold.com has all the specs on their website.
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Post by amvince on Jun 28, 2023 16:29:23 GMT -5
These fridges are not very easy to service from what I was told when mine went bad. Parts are almost non-existent and very few are available for the parts that are made. I did find some control panels out there but that wasn't the problem on mine. It had to do with the fans not operating correctly which meant I had to do a full replacement. At least that is what I was told by two independent repair shops.
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Post by connecttx on Jul 1, 2023 8:42:51 GMT -5
Well after adding the new battery and sitting the trailer sitting in the driveway for a week the frig again powered on when I hit the button. Poltergeists I say! The new tech I talked with believes it's the control board so I've ordered both the upper and lower boards and will try that. It's worth a try and certainly cheaper than replacing the entire frig, Thanks for everyone's comments. I will post the result when the parts arrive.
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Post by a1smith on Jul 12, 2023 19:54:37 GMT -5
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