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Post by cowboycool on Dec 1, 2022 17:33:50 GMT -5
Another learning curve. I have owned a 260BH 2022 for 6 days. I towed it home and when I disconnected the lights all worked fine. I made sure everything was turned off. It took a day to figure out why the light in the pass thru would not turn off (operator dummy ME) I got down to freezing last night. I have not plugged the trailer in yet, waiting on surge suppressor. Went out this morning and the radio played for 5 minutes and the mute switched automatically to MUTE ON and even if I did auxiliary reset, everything reset Except the MUTE ON. I tried turning the interior lights on and nothing, however the small shelf w/USB had a blue glow... nothing else would come on... Dealer said remove the battery and recharge. If this is so does this mean that the battery is not like a car as in it drains in stand bye. Should I expect that if not connected to vehicle or plug in that the battery will die, even with everything I can find is turned off. PLEASE make sense of all of this. HAPPY HOLIDAYS... PEACE OUT
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Post by lynnmor on Dec 1, 2022 18:34:00 GMT -5
First plug the thing in, why are you waiting on a surge suppressor? If you will be using a standard 115 volt outlet with an adapter, there should be no problem. If you had someone install an outlet, then it needs to be tested to see if it was wired wrong, electricians do it wrong all the time. Tell us what you have for an outlet and if you have a 30 or 50 amp plug on the trailer.
Apparently you killed the battery, so either plug in the trailer or charge the battery with a battery charger. A dead battery will freeze and any time that a battery is discharged by half, the life of it will suffer. Charge it NOW.
Most trailers are wired with some parasitic draws, the propane detector is one. If there is no master switch to disconnect the battery, install one.
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Post by cowboycool on Dec 1, 2022 18:58:57 GMT -5
I do have a disconnect on the battery. This is supposed to be a brand new battery installed by the dealer (it looks new). Dealer told me to remove the battery immediately and not to plug in with out the surge suppressor. is 6 days just sitting there enough to drain a new battery.
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Post by lynnmor on Dec 1, 2022 19:36:38 GMT -5
Did you use the disconnect switch? Is it wired to COMPLETELY disconnect the battery? Many are not wired that way to keep detectors working (a lawyer thing). Most batteries installed by dealers are the cheapest and lowest power that money can buy.
I have been camping in an RV since 1977 and never owned a surge suppressor. In recent years I have been using an autoformer with some surge protection to correct low voltage found in many campgrounds as they are being overcrowded with energy hogs. Know that a high end "surge suppressor" can only shut you down. Other than an outlet being wired wrong, exactly what is the fear? Are you afraid that the $39 radio or the $99 TV might be hurt?
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Post by cowboycool on Dec 1, 2022 22:43:55 GMT -5
Are you a jerk on purpose or just a know it all. You fail to answer the question and focus on the obvious. With your attitude not sure I would respect what you thought anyway... Happy Holiday PEACE OUT
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Post by lynnmor on Dec 2, 2022 2:46:05 GMT -5
Are you a jerk on purpose or just a know it all. You fail to answer the question and focus on the obvious. With your attitude not sure I would respect what you thought anyway... Happy Holiday PEACE OUT You are correct, I am really stupid for taking the time to offer some help. Please refer your questions to folks that know nothing. |
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Post by 660catman on Dec 2, 2022 7:40:37 GMT -5
Man, someone’s not living up to their screen name at all! Yes there is parasitic drains on car batteries and camper batteries. Just because battery is new doesn’t mean it was FULLY CHARGED!!! Then leaving a light on when temps are near freezing makes it worse. Plug the camper in already and if you’re not going camping anymore, remove it and charge it ASAP!!!
And don’t take any advice from people on forums. What do they know anyways? Oh, that was sarcasm! Believe me, there are people on here that know way more than a dealer. Just because a dealer has been around a long time, they could have new people there who are less experienced than us campers
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Post by johnr on Dec 5, 2022 8:22:35 GMT -5
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Post by rvcouple on Dec 8, 2022 14:16:16 GMT -5
Like johnr said. Charge the battery and try it again. From your original post, you didn't turn the battery disconnect OFF, so your battery was running the 12 VDC items in your trailer. You can turn the lights off, but other items continue to draw power even if they are not in use, like the CO2 detectors, TV, radio, refrig, water heater, gauge panel, etc. I think johnr was right, your battery probably wasn't fully charged when you got home. If you have the adapter and can plug the camper into a 110 VAC receptacle, do so. Your home power is going to be very stable and you shouldn't need a surge suppressors on your RV. When you are plugged in, AC power is supplied to your converter which then supplies 12 VDC to the trailer and charges your battery. If you aren't familiar with the two power systems, AC & DC in your trailer and how they work, you need to learn that. YouTube and Google are your friends and this forum can be great for specific questions. Just be aware that plugging into a 15 Amp receptacle will restrict what you can run in your trailer that is designed to operate with 30 Amp shore power. You probably won't be able to run the AC at all, and the refrig on electric, or the electric mode on the hot water heater, may only be useable when little or nothing else is turned on. That includes 12 VDC items since your converter runs off the AC and draws power to supply that 12 VDC. As for surge suppressors, they work like the ones in your house. They generally are only needed for sensitive electronics, like the computers, TVs, Stereos, etc. My trailer is wired for 50 Amp shore power so I bought a surge protector for 50 Amp circuits, but mostly is it used for the detector functions that finds cross wired legs, missing neutral, low voltage, missing grounds, etc. I use it to make sure the power is good, the surge suppression function isn't why I have it. Since 30 Amp circuits have been installed at campgrounds forever and are old, but 50 Amp connections are relatively new, I figured most problems would be on the 30 Amp circuits, I got a EPO protector. It's a WatchDog model we use when we have to use an adapter and use 30 Amp. It monitors the same types of faults as the surge suppressor, but also has the ability to shut off the power if conditions get to far out of normal, like under voltage or over current. That can get annoying when you keep tripping for over current because you are trying to run the AC, electric hot water, and a coffee pot at the same time on 30 Amp shore, but it does protect the trailer and teaches you power management and it's better than tripping breakers on the shore power or in the trailer. Hope this helps. |
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