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Post by bobandcathy on Oct 3, 2022 14:15:11 GMT -5
On a short tow this weekend. My brakes on my 14rb started grabbing when applied. They were fine 1/2 way through the trip out but started to feel like they where dragging on a couple of stops. Now they lock up the tires and right now no matter the speed or how much pressure I applied in the TV. They would then act like they were locked Then they would release. Sometimes they acted like they were dragging and then suddenly let go. All fine until the next stop, and then repeat. I finally just unhooked the electrical plug from the TV and made the trip home sans lights and brakes. Suggestions.
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jlhog
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 25
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Post by jlhog on Oct 3, 2022 19:39:56 GMT -5
New to towing here also. I started with a cheap brake controller. The brakes on the trailer were like all or nothing. Jerking to stop or not real sure they were doing anything. Upgraded the brake controller and its 100% better.
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Post by johnr on Oct 4, 2022 7:25:27 GMT -5
Brake controller adjustment. Did your tow vehicle come with one or is it an add-on? Do you have the manuals for them?
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Post by lynnmor on Oct 4, 2022 8:52:44 GMT -5
Since things change perhaps it isn't the controller. trailer brakes are cheap devices prone to trouble. Remove the brake drums and do a complete inspection, lubrication and adjustment. There have been cases where left and right brakes were reversed, so check that as well. Report back with what you found inside the brakes.
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Post by bobandcathy on Oct 4, 2022 11:42:56 GMT -5
Thanks for all the feedback. The controller a Curt Triflex is an add on done by the Truck dealer in March this year. It was balanced and calibrated in the spring and no problems. Prior to this tow. I recalibrated before this weekend and no problems leaving home. I had to use the emergency slide bar once when I entered a curve a little fast and the road, A typical High crown country road, and after that I started having the problem. I had the plug come loose about two miles into the tow and had to stop to plug it back in. So, I have inspected all of the wiring, cleaned all terminals, gave the person who plug the electricals in to the TV. (ME) one hell of a talk for not checking 2 more times. I well get back to all after I have check the brakes on the rigg as suggested. COULD me bumping the manual E brake which gives 100% power to the brake system have knocked something loose? I hate doing mechanics in cold weather, but a complete brake job is cheap insurance. I will report my findings when
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Post by Edd505 on Oct 4, 2022 14:43:33 GMT -5
Thanks for all the feedback. The controller a Curt Triflex is an add on done by the Truck dealer in March this year. It was balanced and calibrated in the spring and no problems. Prior to this tow. I recalibrated before this weekend and no problems leaving home. I had to use the emergency slide bar once when I entered a curve a little fast and the road, A typical High crown country road, and after that I started having the problem. I had the plug come loose about two miles into the tow and had to stop to plug it back in. So, I have inspected all of the wiring, cleaned all terminals, gave the person who plug the electricals in to the TV. (ME) one hell of a talk for not checking 2 more times. I well get back to all after I have check the brakes on the rigg as suggested. COULD me bumping the manual E brake which gives 100% power to the brake system have knocked something loose? I hate doing mechanics in cold weather, but a complete brake job is cheap insurance. I will report my findings when That should not require a complete brake job. Like lynnmor said pull the drums and look at whats going one. This all happened after the hard braking, some thing may have come loose, you had have a bad seal who knows what you will find. The bearings should be repack once a year per the manufacture, so inspect the bearings while your there. If your RV has auto adjusters there have been a number of reports of the entire brake unit put on the wrong side, they are side specific. |
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Post by bobandcathy on Oct 4, 2022 16:04:56 GMT -5
short update. I have the Deter Axile with the self-adjusters. Jacked the rig up and the right hand feels right and no noise when spun but a little bearing play, left though free does have a dragging sound. so next is pull the hubs and get eyeballs on the inside. Thanks friends you have got me on the right trouble shooting track. If I need to go with a complete rebuild there are kits which even include the backing plates for a complete swap. I am Sure, it is just a broken part right now.
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Post by lynnmor on Oct 5, 2022 9:54:23 GMT -5
The bearings are to have a very small amount of play. Some scraping sound is OK, the magnet rides against the armature. Here is information. |
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cherokee
Weekender RV’er
G358RPQ
Posts: 54
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Post by cherokee on Oct 5, 2022 11:17:14 GMT -5
While you have the brake drums off, apply anti-seeze to the backing plate where the brake shoes rub against. (Just pry out shoe to rub against backing plate) Also apply some anti-seeze to the pivot point of the magnet arm pivot. These all need to be lubed to prevent the shoes from locking up on the applied position and return to the release position.
I found an extra backing plate nut that they must have dropped during assembly, was laying on shoe at the bottom and finally fell off during a hard turn. The brake made a hell of a squeal.
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Post by bobandcathy on Oct 9, 2022 9:29:44 GMT -5
OK! update got back to the rigg yesterday. To get the drum off had to remove a large snap ring, and then a spring then the zerk fitting. Then remove the IMO a grease reservoir as that was its only function. That let me get to the cotter pin and nut, and then pull the drum. Nothing looked broken or real loose, "BUT" what should it look like? MAYBE not needed but I went and ordered a complete brake kit already mounted to the backing plate Got both sides L and R Hand and all new parts, with auto adjust for less than $200, shipping free. I went this way since it is a 2011 14RB and I am the 3rd owner and since I am down this far thought change them out. When I do the rh side I'll get pics of taking all that stuff off and putting the new kits on.
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Post by bobandcathy on Oct 16, 2022 19:41:03 GMT -5
Got to the R/H side this AM. WELL found a blown grease seal. When and how long no idea. BUT there it was grease everywhere. Hope this will fix the problem. With the new kits from E- Trailer and a new tire because of the flat spots so far so good. Thanks for all the info.
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Post by nvguy on Oct 16, 2022 21:53:37 GMT -5
Ok, to me it sound like someone put bearing buddies on your axle. All you should have is a hub cap. Unless you regularly submerge your trailer's axle, there is no need for bearing buddies on a travel trailer, and that is probably why you had a seal failure, as bearing buddies take special seals that can hold pressure.
Make sure you give the grease filled drum a (actually both) complete cleaning with brake parts cleaner to get all the grease out.
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Post by gwinger on Oct 17, 2022 8:25:42 GMT -5
Ok, to me it sound like someone put bearing buddies on your axle. All you should have is a hub cap. Unless you regularly submerge your trailer's axle, there is no need for bearing buddies on a travel trailer, and that is probably why you had a seal failure, as bearing buddies take special seals that can hold pressure. Make sure you give the grease filled drum a (actually both) complete cleaning with brake parts cleaner to get all the grease out. If the axles are the ez-lube with the zerk fitting' it's possible that they were not lubed correctly. The proper way is to use a hand grease gun and slowly add grease as you spin the wheel. Keep adding grease until all the old dark grease comes out the front. Just pumping grease into the fitting without spinning the wheel can blew the rear seal. |
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Post by lynnmor on Oct 17, 2022 9:08:57 GMT -5
Ok, to me it sound like someone put bearing buddies on your axle. All you should have is a hub cap. Unless you regularly submerge your trailer's axle, there is no need for bearing buddies on a travel trailer, and that is probably why you had a seal failure, as bearing buddies take special seals that can hold pressure. Make sure you give the grease filled drum a (actually both) complete cleaning with brake parts cleaner to get all the grease out. If the axles are the ez-lube with the zerk fitting' it's possible that they were not lubed correctly. The proper way is to use a hand grease gun and slowly add grease as you spin the wheel. Keep adding grease until all the old dark grease comes out the front. Just pumping grease into the fitting without spinning the wheel can blew the rear seal. I think that the OP learned enough about grease on brakes. The correct way to use the EZ-Lube is to smack the grease fitting with a hammer and forget that it ever existed. |
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Post by nvguy on Oct 17, 2022 22:46:28 GMT -5
If the axles are the ez-lube with the zerk fitting' it's possible that they were not lubed correctly. The proper way is to use a hand grease gun and slowly add grease as you spin the wheel. Keep adding grease until all the old dark grease comes out the front. Just pumping grease into the fitting without spinning the wheel can blew the rear seal. I think that the OP learned enough about grease on brakes. The correct way to use the EZ-Lube is to smack the grease fitting with a hammer and forget that it ever existed. Hammer time!!! That is the best advice ever regarding those stupid zerk fittings. |
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Post by Edd505 on Oct 18, 2022 18:02:05 GMT -5
With the inconstant braking you might want to look for wire that's worn through at the axle. Check the wire were it enters the axle.
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Post by nvguy on Oct 18, 2022 21:44:15 GMT -5
Edd brings up a good point, now would be a good time to just bypass the short prone thru the axle wiring, you can get some jacketed wire like this and zip tie it to the axle itself. wire
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Post by rvcouple on Nov 5, 2022 16:26:59 GMT -5
Edd brings up a good point, now would be a good time to just bypass the short prone thru the axle wiring, you can get some jacketed wire like this and zip tie it to the axle itself. wire
I would use SST hose clamps instead of plastic zip ties, just for longevity, or the zip ties become another annual maintenance check. |
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Post by nvguy on Nov 5, 2022 22:04:07 GMT -5
Zip ties are a safer alternative as overly enthusiastic tightening of hose clamps can cut wires. Besides, one should be checking brakes and bearings yearly.
FWIW I ran my wires thru 1/2" PVC held on with hose clamps.
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Post by Edd505 on Nov 6, 2022 23:25:18 GMT -5
Zip ties are a safer alternative as overly enthusiastic tightening of hose clamps can cut wires. Besides, one should be checking brakes and bearings yearly. FWIW I ran my wires thru 1/2" PVC held on with hose clamps. PEX would work also, little smaller.
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