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Post by lynnmor on Apr 22, 2021 8:08:35 GMT -5
You only need to know what pressure you inflate the tires, the maximum is on the sidewall but you should use the pressure for the actual weight the tire carries. The TST manual will guide you thru the setup, and there are videos on their website as well as YouTube.
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kbrady
Seasonal RV’er
Posts: 167
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Post by kbrady on Apr 22, 2021 8:26:43 GMT -5
TST Manual suggest leaving temperature at 158 for all tire types. High pressure should be 20-25% more and Low Pressure at 10% less than normal tire pressure.
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Post by ronc on Apr 23, 2021 11:45:26 GMT -5
TST Manual suggest leaving temperature at 158 for all tire types. High pressure should be 20-25% more and Low Pressure at 10% less than normal tire pressure. X2 |
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Post by laknox on Apr 26, 2021 10:37:05 GMT -5
TST Manual suggest leaving temperature at 158 for all tire types. High pressure should be 20-25% more and Low Pressure at 10% less than normal tire pressure. When you say "normal" tire pressure, are you referring to cold max psi or what you actually run (assuming you adhere to inflation charts)? Lyle |
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Post by ronc on May 11, 2021 16:30:53 GMT -5
What you actually run ... not the max cold pressure printed on the tire. My tires are G114H rated 17.5" Goodyears. Max pressure on the tire is 125 psi cold. I have 8K axles (4K on each wheel). I run them at 100 psi because on the chart, 100 psi is the correct pressure to carry 4,000 lbs. So my "normal" is 100 PSI.
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Post by lovegolf44 on May 12, 2021 6:14:16 GMT -5
What you actually run ... not the max cold pressure printed on the tire. My tires are G114H rated 17.5" Goodyears. Max pressure on the tire is 125 psi. I have 8K axles (4K on each wheel). I run them at 100 psi because on the chart, 100 psi is the correct pressure to carry 4,000 lbs. So my "normal" is 100 PSI. I don't play around with deflating and inflating numbers based on the current load. The recommended tire pressure is the max cold pressure. If I keep my tires at that pressure when I hit the road, I really don't see where I'm going to have any problems let alone any benefit from deflating them based on the current load. I don't do that for my car/truck so I'm not going to start with my fiver. |
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Post by ronc on May 13, 2021 14:06:14 GMT -5
What you actually run ... not the max cold pressure printed on the tire. My tires are G114H rated 17.5" Goodyears. Max pressure on the tire is 125 psi. I have 8K axles (4K on each wheel). I run them at 100 psi because on the chart, 100 psi is the correct pressure to carry 4,000 lbs. So my "normal" is 100 PSI. I don't play around with deflating and inflating numbers based on the current load. The recommended tire pressure is the max cold pressure. If I keep my tires at that pressure when I hit the road, I really don't see where I'm going to have any problems let alone any benefit from deflating them based on the current load. I don't do that for my car/truck so I'm not going to start with my fiver. There is a benefit to running the correct pressure for the load (based on the tire charts). If I run 125 psi (maximum cold pressure on the side of the tire), my rig experiences a much rougher ride than if I use the chart recommended pressure of 100 psi. But since this does not fit in your view ... good luck. BTW ... I have a Ford F350 dually. The manufacturer's recommended max load pressures are 75 psi for front tires and 65 psi for the rear (all 6 tires are exactly the same) ... on the side of the tire it says the max cold pressure is 80 psi. If you look at your truck (or your car), you probably will see the same. They do that because at their recommended pressures the tires carry their max load. But do what you want. |
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Post by lovegolf44 on May 14, 2021 6:10:59 GMT -5
I don't play around with deflating and inflating numbers based on the current load. The recommended tire pressure is the max cold pressure. If I keep my tires at that pressure when I hit the road, I really don't see where I'm going to have any problems let alone any benefit from deflating them based on the current load. I don't do that for my car/truck so I'm not going to start with my fiver. There is a benefit to running the correct pressure for the load (based on the tire charts). If I run 125 psi (maximum cold pressure on the side of the tire), my rig experiences a much rougher ride than if I use the chart recommended pressure of 100 psi. But since this does not fit in your view ... good luck. BTW ... I have a Ford F350 dually. The manufacturer's recommended max load pressures are 75 psi for front tires and 65 psi for the rear (all 6 tires are exactly the same) ... on the side of the tire it says the max cold pressure is 80 psi. If you look at your truck (or your car), you probably will see the same. They do that because at their recommended pressures the tires carry their max load. But do what you want. I did a little more research based on your input and you're correct. I just need to get my trailer weighed and see what I need to inflate my trailer tires to for that particular load. I assume the tire chart is cold pressures correct? Thx |
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Post by ronc on May 17, 2021 16:58:42 GMT -5
There is a benefit to running the correct pressure for the load (based on the tire charts). If I run 125 psi (maximum cold pressure on the side of the tire), my rig experiences a much rougher ride than if I use the chart recommended pressure of 100 psi. But since this does not fit in your view ... good luck. BTW ... I have a Ford F350 dually. The manufacturer's recommended max load pressures are 75 psi for front tires and 65 psi for the rear (all 6 tires are exactly the same) ... on the side of the tire it says the max cold pressure is 80 psi. If you look at your truck (or your car), you probably will see the same. They do that because at their recommended pressures the tires carry their max load. But do what you want. I did a little more research based on your input and you're correct. I just need to get my trailer weighed and see what I need to inflate my trailer tires to for that particular load. I assume the tire chart is cold pressures correct? Thx When you weigh your rig ... you will need to get a wheel by wheel weight on each trailer tire. Use the tire pressure chart to determine the correct pressure for your heaviest tire ... then inflate all tires to that pressure. There is a way to get individual wheel weights on a CAT scale. I have explained this before so you can search this forum for that process. If you can't find it let me know, and I'll re-post the process. And yes, the tire pressure chart is cold pressures. Obviously, you would need to find your tire manufacturer's tire pressure chart. I have Goodyear, so not sure how to find Westlake, or Trailer King, or other brands. |
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Post by ronc on May 17, 2021 17:19:14 GMT -5
How to get individual wheel weights using a CAT scale ...
The ideal way is to get it done by people who do that all the time with special weighing pads. They are often found at various rallies around the country. The "do it yourself method" is to go to a regular CAT scale, found at many truck stops, and after weighing the whole rig, pull the trailer forward until the front axle of the trailer is on the weigh pad of the one that the trucks rear wheels were on and the back trailer axle remains on the trailer pad (this is called splitting the axles). After this is done, back the rig up (or pull forward and swing around for the final weigh) and maneuver the trailer so that the tailer axles are again split, but one side of the trailer's axles are OFF the weighing pads (I use the driver side tires to be off the scale, because I can see them best using my mirrors). In this way you'll have the front trailer axle total weight, the rear trailer axle total weight (obtained when you first "split the axles"). Now subtract the one side weight of each axle (from when you spit them with one set of side tires off the weigh pads). This will give you (with a little math) the front truck axle weight, the rear truck axle weight, the front trailer total axle weight, the rear trailer total axle weight, and after the math, you'll have each trailer tires individual weights.
This requires some skill to put one side of the trailer wheels off the pads and be split at the same time ... so if you aren't adept at maneuvering the trailer in tight spaces best not to try this. I have done it and while it yields the individual wheel weights, it will require that you pay for three weighs ... the first "regular" weighing, the first split axle weighing and finally the split axle weighing with one set of trailer tires off the side of the weighing pads. Have a spotter, and if this exceeds your comfort level of trailer/truck control don't do it. Probably should go inside first to tell the scale operator what you are intending to do, as he/she will need to co-operate with you to get this done. Sometimes, best to weigh the whole thing, then pull forward to split the axles ... then pull off the scales to allow others to move on, then pull back on the scale to obtain the final split axle with one side of the trailer off the weigh pads to get your final numbers.
Good luck.
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Post by lovegolf44 on May 18, 2021 6:29:54 GMT -5
How to get individual wheel weights using a CAT scale ... The ideal way is to get it done by people who do that all the time with special weighing pads. They are often found at various rallies around the country. The "do it yourself method" is to go to a regular CAT scale, found at many truck stops, and after weighing the whole rig, pull the trailer forward until the front axle of the trailer is on the weigh pad of the one that the trucks rear wheels were on and the back trailer axle remains on the trailer pad (this is called splitting the axles). After this is done, back the rig up (or pull forward and swing around for the final weigh) and maneuver the trailer so that the tailer axles are again split, but one side of the trailer's axles are OFF the weighing pads (I use the driver side tires to be off the scale, because I can see them best using my mirrors). In this way you'll have the front trailer axle total weight, the rear trailer axle total weight (obtained when you first "split the axles"). Now subtract the one side weight of each axle (from when you spit them with one set of side tires off the weigh pads). This will give you (with a little math) the front truck axle weight, the rear truck axle weight, the front trailer total axle weight, the rear trailer total axle weight, and after the math, you'll have each trailer tires individual weights. This requires some skill to put one side of the trailer wheels off the pads and be split at the same time ... so if you aren't adept at maneuvering the trailer in tight spaces best not to try this. I have done it and while it yields the individual wheel weights, it will require that you pay for three weighs ... the first "regular" weighing, the first split axle weighing and finally the split axle weighing with one set of trailer tires off the side of the weighing pads. Have a spotter, and if this exceeds your comfort level of trailer/truck control don't do it. Probably should go inside first to tell the scale operator what you are intending to do, as he/she will need to co-operate with you to get this done. Sometimes, best to weigh the whole thing, then pull forward to split the axles ... then pull off the scales to allow others to move on, then pull back on the scale to obtain the final split axle with one side of the trailer off the weigh pads to get your final numbers. Good luck. Sounds like quite a process. Thx for the info. |
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Post by laknox on May 18, 2021 15:27:57 GMT -5
FWIW, my brother's Reflection he recently picked up, is 400 lbs heavier on the curb side.
Lyle
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Post by lovegolf44 on May 20, 2021 6:17:29 GMT -5
FWIW, my brother's Reflection he recently picked up, is 400 lbs heavier on the curb side. Lyle Seems it's an art to get these fivers balanced evenly with cargo. |
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Post by ronc on May 20, 2021 16:24:06 GMT -5
Depending on floor plan, the weight will often follow the kitchen. In my case (381REF)my kitchen is on the driver's side, as is my heavy king mattress and the factory installed 5kw generator, propane bottles, 12 gallon HWH, etc.
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Post by Edd505 on May 23, 2021 23:01:55 GMT -5
How to get individual wheel weights using a CAT scale ... The ideal way is to get it done by people who do that all the time with special weighing pads. They are often found at various rallies around the country. The "do it yourself method" is to go to a regular CAT scale, found at many truck stops, and after weighing the whole rig, pull the trailer forward until the front axle of the trailer is on the weigh pad of the one that the trucks rear wheels were on and the back trailer axle remains on the trailer pad (this is called splitting the axles). After this is done, back the rig up (or pull forward and swing around for the final weigh) and maneuver the trailer so that the tailer axles are again split, but one side of the trailer's axles are OFF the weighing pads (I use the driver side tires to be off the scale, because I can see them best using my mirrors). In this way you'll have the front trailer axle total weight, the rear trailer axle total weight (obtained when you first "split the axles"). Now subtract the one side weight of each axle (from when you spit them with one set of side tires off the weigh pads). This will give you (with a little math) the front truck axle weight, the rear truck axle weight, the front trailer total axle weight, the rear trailer total axle weight, and after the math, you'll have each trailer tires individual weights. This requires some skill to put one side of the trailer wheels off the pads and be split at the same time ... so if you aren't adept at maneuvering the trailer in tight spaces best not to try this. I have done it and while it yields the individual wheel weights, it will require that you pay for three weighs ... the first "regular" weighing, the first split axle weighing and finally the split axle weighing with one set of trailer tires off the side of the weighing pads. Have a spotter, and if this exceeds your comfort level of trailer/truck control don't do it. Probably should go inside first to tell the scale operator what you are intending to do, as he/she will need to co-operate with you to get this done. Sometimes, best to weigh the whole thing, then pull forward to split the axles ... then pull off the scales to allow others to move on, then pull back on the scale to obtain the final split axle with one side of the trailer off the weigh pads to get your final numbers. Good luck. Guess I don't understand Ron. This is what I saw coming onto a Cat Scale. Cat Scales |
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Post by ronc on May 23, 2021 23:32:38 GMT -5
What doesn’t make sense?
you pull onto the CAT scale and put your truck front axle on the first pad, your truck rear axle on the second pad and both or your trailers axles on the third pad. This gives you your FAW, your RAW and your trailers total axle weight. Pull forward enough to put your trailers front axle on pad #2, which was the pad your truck’s rear axle was, and your trailers rear axle on the third pad where both axles were ... “splitting” the trailers axles ... this gives you how much of get the total trailers weight is on the front axle and how much of it is on the rear axle. The third weigh is the one where you pull around and weigh again with one set of the trailers tires off the weigh pads, but with the axle wheels still split. By subtracting the difference between the split front and rear axle weights from the total front and rear axle weights, you get the individual wheel weights. If this still doesn’t make sense, give me a call.
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Post by lovegolf44 on Jun 1, 2021 8:08:56 GMT -5
Does anyone have the link for the Taskmaster tire load/inflation charts? I can't seem to find anything on their web site. Tried emailing them too. I have the Provider ST235/85R16s.
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