|
|
Post by lovegolf44 on Mar 29, 2021 6:16:29 GMT -5
Check to make sure the refrigerator was not accidentally put into display mode. Educate us, residential only? or does the Norcold do something I'm not aware of? Norcold? Our frig is not electric/gas, I'm quite certain of that. |
|
|
|
Post by jetzen on Mar 29, 2021 14:13:21 GMT -5
Check to make sure the refrigerator was not accidentally put into display mode. One of the first things I checked. You state you are hooked up to 110v house current, Are you on a min. 30 amp service? |
|
|
|
Post by lovegolf44 on Mar 30, 2021 7:15:11 GMT -5
One of the first things I checked. You state you are hooked up to 110v house current, Are you on a min. 30 amp service? I was on 110v while I had the camper in my driveway. 110v circuits are 15/20a only. I haven't hooked it up to 30 or 50amp service yet but I wouldn't think that would matter since refrigerators run on 110v/20amp. There's definitely something wrong with this Samsung. |
|
|
|
Post by lynnmor on Mar 30, 2021 8:37:36 GMT -5
I can hear the compressor running. If you indeed hear the compressor running and there is no cooling, it is replacement time. |
|
|
|
Post by jetzen on Mar 30, 2021 11:21:19 GMT -5
You state you are hooked up to 110v house current, Are you on a min. 30 amp service? I was on 110v while I had the camper in my driveway. 110v circuits are 15/20a only. I haven't hooked it up to 30 or 50amp service yet but I wouldn't think that would matter since refrigerators run on 110v/20amp. There's definitely something wrong with this Samsung. If you have your 110v plugged directly into the refrigerator that is one thing but if you have your 110v plugged into the trailer there are other things drawing on that 20 amp line, like the converter. It alone will draw around 5-8 amps average, 15-18 max. This alone could be causing a voltage and amperage drop below the threshold of proper startup for the refrigerator. There may be something wrong with the refrigerator but at least try giving the trailer the fighting chance to operate with the proper amount of voltage and amperage. By running only a 15/20 amp line you may be causing a brown out. |
|
|
|
Post by laknox on Mar 31, 2021 10:33:26 GMT -5
I was on 110v while I had the camper in my driveway. 110v circuits are 15/20a only. I haven't hooked it up to 30 or 50amp service yet but I wouldn't think that would matter since refrigerators run on 110v/20amp. There's definitely something wrong with this Samsung. If you have your 110v plugged directly into the refrigerator that is one thing but if you have your 110v plugged into the trailer there are other things drawing on that 20 amp line, like the converter. It alone will draw around 5-8 amps average, 15-18 max. This alone could be causing a voltage and amperage drop below the threshold of proper startup for the refrigerator. There may be something wrong with the refrigerator but at least try giving the trailer the fighting chance to operate with the proper amount of voltage and amperage. By running only a 15/20 amp line you may be causing a brown out. Since this is a residential fridge, will it run if the disconnect is OFF? That would take the converter out of the equation. Lyle |
|
|
|
Post by jetzen on Mar 31, 2021 16:58:33 GMT -5
If you have your 110v plugged directly into the refrigerator that is one thing but if you have your 110v plugged into the trailer there are other things drawing on that 20 amp line, like the converter. It alone will draw around 5-8 amps average, 15-18 max. This alone could be causing a voltage and amperage drop below the threshold of proper startup for the refrigerator. There may be something wrong with the refrigerator but at least try giving the trailer the fighting chance to operate with the proper amount of voltage and amperage. By running only a 15/20 amp line you may be causing a brown out. Since this is a residential fridge, will it run if the disconnect is OFF? That would take the converter out of the equation. Lyle No it does not. By turning the disconnect switch to off you take the battery out of the equation on most everything but the co/propane detector and the one control gateway and the leveling system. There may be a few other things |
|
|
|
Post by Chuck on Apr 9, 2021 18:16:36 GMT -5
So Samsung's warranty is 1 year, have you contacted KZ? KZ says 2 year bumper to bumper, they should warranty even if Samsung doesn't. When I gave Samsung support the frig S/N, they said nope, not under warranty. Yeah, bumper - bumper apparently is a bit of a misconception. Mfg of Frig should cover your warranty for 1st year, after that Kz is on the hook to cover such up to the two year mark, call Kz or your dealer 
Chuck
|
|
