Hank
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 35
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Post by Hank on Jan 23, 2021 21:33:56 GMT -5
I’m going to replace one of the two fold out couches with a 72” x 30” “sit to stand” desk. It has a vertical support at each end connecting to a “leg” that contacts the floor (think of an upside-down T). I’m wondering about the best way to secure this to the floor of the slide-out. I was considering carriage bolts through the bottom with washers and nuts on top above the table base legs; I’m wondering about clearance with slide operation. Another thought is lag bolts from the top of the legs into the floor deck. Any thoughts on this, especially how the manufacturers secure such things in these slides, is much appreciated.
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Post by nvguy on Jan 23, 2021 22:44:28 GMT -5
The lag bolt might be the best, but be very careful with the length. The problem (as I see it) with the carriage bolt is the bolt head will protrude just enough to maybe scar up the floor when the slide is in or scrape up the gasket. Another thought is elevator bolts- kind of a carriage bolt, but with a flat head. Another way is using countersunk bolts. The biggest issue with any of the through the floor method is putting a hole in the underside of the slide, which in my opinion needs to be as smooth as possible.
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Post by Chuck on Jan 24, 2021 16:53:40 GMT -5
hank Most things in trailer are stabled or screwed to the floor, also please rmember that wiring is also run thought floor in some of the 5th wheels an also slides so it is a good idea to trace wiring if possible ... Also Kz more than likely will not have a specific wiring diagram for your 5th wheel,
from one day to another RV installers may run wires in different place's even thought the
schematic or blue print states place it here they may not for one reason or the other not do so Ugh 
As what nvguy stated if you do use lag bolts or screws make darn sure they are not to long an that the heads or nuts do not extend to the point of either scratching the floor when slide goes in an out of for that matter prevent the slide from working correctly 
Also make darn sure you seal up anything that comes out the bottom of the slide so water will not get into the slide floor, it could cost you many, many, many dollars to replace a slide floor from water damage .... 
Good luck, the 391RKQ looks to be a very nice trailer 
Safe Travels
Chuck
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Post by Edd505 on Jan 27, 2021 15:09:06 GMT -5
Why not counter sink a carriage bolt, you could make that a totally flush mounting.
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Hank
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 35
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Post by Hank on Jan 27, 2021 19:52:01 GMT -5
Why not counter sink a carriage bolt, you could make that a totally flush mounting. Edd505 - I had the same thought. I would much rather depend on a bolt head on the bottom with washer/nut inside above the desk foot than depend on a self-tapping lag bolt coming down from the top. It shouldn’t take much sink depth to handle a carriage bolt head. |
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Post by Edd505 on Jan 30, 2021 22:55:14 GMT -5
Why not counter sink a carriage bolt, you could make that a totally flush mounting. Edd505 - I had the same thought. I would much rather depend on a bolt head on the bottom with washer/nut inside above the desk foot than depend on a self-tapping lag bolt coming down from the top. It shouldn’t take much sink depth to handle a carriage bolt head. I'm guessing it will require opening the under belly. Local RV shop said to use aluminum tape to close after opening. I have several strips under mine chasing a leveling system issue. So far it's all in place, water tight, and sticks really well.
Get some pictures as you do this, it may help someone else do the mod. I've done plumbing, washer/dryer install, disk brakes end several other mods inside.
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Post by laknox on Feb 1, 2021 11:13:04 GMT -5
Edd505 - I had the same thought. I would much rather depend on a bolt head on the bottom with washer/nut inside above the desk foot than depend on a self-tapping lag bolt coming down from the top. It shouldn’t take much sink depth to handle a carriage bolt head. I'm guessing it will require opening the under belly. Local RV shop said to use aluminum tape to close after opening. I have several strips under mine chasing a leveling system issue. So far it's all in place, water tight, and sticks really well.
Get some pictures as you do this, it may help someone else do the mod. I've done plumbing, washer/dryer install, disk brakes end several other mods inside.
Or Gorilla or Eternabond tape. If you don't want to cut the coroplast, then just take down the whole panel. If you do cut the coroplast, then make "doors" with the "hinge" to the front. Just seal the cuts with the tape. If you have to open it up again, I can just about guarantee you'll have to cut the tape; it =won't= come off! :-) Lyle |
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kbrady
Seasonal RV’er
Posts: 171
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Post by kbrady on Feb 1, 2021 13:26:04 GMT -5
Just a thought, Does it really need to be bolted to the floor? None of my furniture on the slides are. I've never have anything slide around.
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Post by laknox on Feb 1, 2021 14:26:05 GMT -5
Just a thought, Does it really need to be bolted to the floor? None of my furniture on the slides are. I've never have anything slide around. Given that the OP's talking about a sit/stand desk, he might need it anchored to be able to easily raise the desk to the stand position. Me, I'm lazy and might just grab a couple 25 lb bags of #6 shot to put over the legs and save myself the trouble of crawling around under my trailer.  Lyle |
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Hank
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 35
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Post by Hank on Feb 1, 2021 19:51:08 GMT -5
I am concerned about the relatively high center of gravity, although I can reduce that somewhat by lowering the top. It will have a dual monitor mount permanently attached and that will add to the weight and moment. I’ll study in detail once I get the RV and will post some photos of the install as Edd505 suggested.
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Post by laknox on Feb 2, 2021 10:18:55 GMT -5
I am concerned about the relatively high center of gravity, although I can reduce that somewhat by lowering the top. It will have a dual monitor mount permanently attached and that will add to the weight and moment. I’ll study in detail once I get the RV and will post some photos of the install as Edd505 suggested. Ah! Yeah, that'd make a difference. Personally, I wouldn't travel with the monitors fixed, though. I'd take them off an put them on the bed. I'd be afraid the vibration during travel might damage them. We're planning on a 4-6 week long "working trip" later this year, and that's my plan. Lyle |
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Hank
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 35
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Post by Hank on Feb 3, 2021 8:50:07 GMT -5
Laknox - agree 100% on removing the monitors for travel. The desk mount has quick-release for the monitors and I’ve got a padded case to store them in.
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Post by laknox on Feb 3, 2021 10:22:03 GMT -5
Laknox - agree 100% on removing the monitors for travel. The desk mount has quick-release for the monitors and I’ve got a padded case to store them in.  |
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Post by Edd505 on Feb 4, 2021 16:16:29 GMT -5
Just a thought, Does it really need to be bolted to the floor? None of my furniture on the slides are. I've never have anything slide around. I have a pedestal table in my slide and it's bolted to the floor, the chairs have long bungee like cords to hold them while traveling. |
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Post by laknox on Feb 5, 2021 9:56:48 GMT -5
Just a thought, Does it really need to be bolted to the floor? None of my furniture on the slides are. I've never have anything slide around. I have a pedestal table in my slide and it's bolted to the floor, the chairs have long bungee like cords to hold them while traveling. Same with me. Probably my most disliked thing about the rig, given that the two chairs towards the inside of the trailer basically have to sit with 2 legs on the slide carpet and 2 legs on the hard floor, giving you a nice tilt of over an inch. If you have a bad back, you =will= feel it after just a few minutes. Lyle |
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Post by Edd505 on Feb 5, 2021 18:34:15 GMT -5
This is closed, pull open toward the counter and the other two chairs are on the vinyl floor.
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Post by laknox on Feb 8, 2021 10:33:44 GMT -5
This is closed, pull open toward the counter and the other two chairs are on the vinyl floor.
Not on my rig. Still have the outer legs on the carpet and the inner legs on the vinyl. I'll get a pic...sometime. :-) Lyle |
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Post by jfspry58 on Feb 8, 2021 12:05:39 GMT -5
Same with me. Probably my most disliked thing about the rig, given that the two chairs towards the inside of the trailer basically have to sit with 2 legs on the slide carpet and 2 legs on the hard floor, giving you a nice tilt of over an inch. If you have a bad back, you =will= feel it after just a few minutes. Lyle Same here. I do not like those two inside chairs having two legs on the carpet and two on the laminate. Probably taking two of the dining chairs out of ours and replacing them with two folding chairs. I believe that's the factory arrangement in the Gold. Jay |
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Post by Edd505 on Feb 8, 2021 22:32:09 GMT -5
Same with me. Probably my most disliked thing about the rig, given that the two chairs towards the inside of the trailer basically have to sit with 2 legs on the slide carpet and 2 legs on the hard floor, giving you a nice tilt of over an inch. If you have a bad back, you =will= feel it after just a few minutes. Lyle Same here. I do not like those two inside chairs having two legs on the carpet and two on the laminate. Probably taking two of the dining chairs out of ours and replacing them with two folding chairs. I believe that's the factory arrangement in the Gold. Jay My other two are wood folding padded seats, came with the 5W and store under the bed. |
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Post by jfspry58 on Feb 8, 2021 23:21:40 GMT -5
Same here. I do not like those two inside chairs having two legs on the carpet and two on the laminate. Probably taking two of the dining chairs out of ours and replacing them with two folding chairs. I believe that's the factory arrangement in the Gold. Jay My other two are wood folding padded seats, came with the 5W and store under the bed. I think that would be a much better arrangement. |
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