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Post by clawhorne on Jun 30, 2020 12:34:20 GMT -5
I just purchased a used 2018 KZ Escape 191BH. I found the low point valve on the fresh water tank and I am assuming that by removing the anode rod, that will release the water from the water heater. The manual says that there will be two to four low point valves in our unit. Is there anything else I should do regarding draining water after a trip? I notice there is still about an inch of water in the fresh water tank once drained and I'm assuming there isn't much I can do about that other than sanitize before I take it out again if that water stands more than a few days. If anyone has a set process regarding fresh water tanks that you use upon return home to clear the lines and the tank between trips I'd love to see it. Thanks!
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Post by zanderman on Jun 30, 2020 13:15:47 GMT -5
You should have a drain just for the fresh water tank and 2 other low point drains, one for cold lines and one for hot lines. You can drain the hot lines by opening the hot water low point drain (usually has red piping) and opening one or more of your hot water faucets, no need to remove the anode for draining.  |
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Post by johnr on Jun 30, 2020 13:26:44 GMT -5
Look around, you'll have at least 2 other low point drains. If they aren't under the camper, check inside floor level cabinets and see if you can spot them.
I personally take out the anode rod when draining the system, after the low point drains have been opened to take pressure off of the tank.
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 30, 2020 17:11:14 GMT -5
In order to drain the fresh water tank completely, you could drive around with the valve open, just use roads where you might not give a motorcyclist a shower. I have a flea market on my way home, and he has no problem if I water the grass. After the water stops draining, nearly all of the remaining comes out before I hit the road. If your drain is on the side of the tank above the bottom, you may never get all the water out.
There should be only the red and blue low point drains. To drain the water heater, try this; open the low point drains and the T&P valve on the water heater. If you are lucky, most of the water will flow out. The reason for opening the T&P valve is to allow air in, opening faucets will not work if there is a check valve in the WH outlet.
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Post by zanderman on Jun 30, 2020 19:26:07 GMT -5
In order to drain the fresh water tank completely, you could drive around with the valve open, just use roads where you might not give a motorcyclist a shower. I have a flea market on my way home, and he has no problem if I water the grass. After the water stops draining, nearly all of the remaining comes out before I hit the road. If your drain is on the side of the tank above the bottom, you may never get all the water out. There should be only the red and blue low point drains. To drain the water heater, try this; open the low point drains and the T&P valve on the water heater. If you are lucky, most of the water will flow out. The reason for opening the T&P valve is to allow air in, opening faucets will not work if there is a check valve in the WH outlet. Opening the T&P valve is a great idea, thanks for reminding me of that. |
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Post by clawhorne on Jul 1, 2020 13:33:59 GMT -5
In order to drain the fresh water tank completely, you could drive around with the valve open, just use roads where you might not give a motorcyclist a shower. I have a flea market on my way home, and he has no problem if I water the grass. After the water stops draining, nearly all of the remaining comes out before I hit the road. If your drain is on the side of the tank above the bottom, you may never get all the water out. There should be only the red and blue low point drains. To drain the water heater, try this; open the low point drains and the T&P valve on the water heater. If you are lucky, most of the water will flow out. The reason for opening the T&P valve is to allow air in, opening faucets will not work if there is a check valve in the WH outlet. Thank you for the advice. My freshwater drain tube is on the side of the tank so I am in the situation that I will never get it all drained from there. That valve is located under the bunk. Still looking for the hot water drain valve. What is the T&P valve? Thanks again. |
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 1, 2020 16:55:08 GMT -5
T&P valveYou should have two pipes extending out of the trailer bottom, they may have plugs or valves in the ends, or open with valves inside. Usually, but not always, they are colored red and blue. A Suburban brand water heater will have an anode near its bottom that is removed with a 1-1/16" socket. The tank will drain and you can flush out debris with a wand. The anode will need replaced if worn too much, just like the one in a home water heater. An Atwood water heater will have a plastic plug for draining and cleaning, there is no anode. Keep spare plastic plugs on hand, they distort easily. Since you cannot fully drain the fresh water tank, I would add some bleach when storage will be a few weeks or more. You don't want to start a biological experiment in there.
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Post by zanderman on Jul 2, 2020 9:02:56 GMT -5
In order to drain the fresh water tank completely, you could drive around with the valve open, just use roads where you might not give a motorcyclist a shower. I have a flea market on my way home, and he has no problem if I water the grass. After the water stops draining, nearly all of the remaining comes out before I hit the road. If your drain is on the side of the tank above the bottom, you may never get all the water out. There should be only the red and blue low point drains. To drain the water heater, try this; open the low point drains and the T&P valve on the water heater. If you are lucky, most of the water will flow out. The reason for opening the T&P valve is to allow air in, opening faucets will not work if there is a check valve in the WH outlet. Thank you for the advice. My freshwater drain tube is on the side of the tank so I am in the situation that I will never get it all drained from there. That valve is located under the bunk. Still looking for the hot water drain valve. What is the T&P valve? Thanks again. T&P valve is a safety valve (temperature and pressure) that is on all hot water heaters... It is brass near the top of the tank and has a spring-loaded valve with an external handle that you can use to relieve pressure or allow air into the tank when draining. You obviously don't want to open it if the water is hot / under pressure. I'll add a pic later. |
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Post by nvguy on Jul 2, 2020 21:34:04 GMT -5
Here ya go, also includes anode info.  |
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Post by clawhorne on Jul 3, 2020 14:24:23 GMT -5
Here ya go, also includes anode info. Thank you! I am slowing figuring things out. I think the water tank makes me most nervous because I can't completely drain it and we will go 10-20 days between our trips. I went ahead and started the process to sanitize with bleach. I used a 1/4 cup of bleach and mixed with a gallon of water, added that to the tank, and then filled the tank with about 15 gallons of water. I turned on all the faucets until I could smell bleach water running through them. Now, do I drain the hot water line (to drain from the heater) and leave 10 or so gallons of the bleach solution in the fresh tank/cold lines until our next trip (in 10 days) or should I drain everything leaving just the inch or so of bleach water solution in the fresh tank? I am so thankful for everyone's help in this forum! |
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 3, 2020 16:53:14 GMT -5
When I sanitize, I completely fill the tank so that the bleach contacts the top of the tank and the fill plumbing. Between trips, you only need to give the system a maintenance dose of a tablespoon or two. If you have chlorinated city water, you may need little or nothing. Just so you know, there are virtually no RVs that completely drain, and the owners have no clue. Tanks are long flat containers with bulges in the bottom, and trailers are rarely parked level. That is my reason for driving a bit with the drain open so that water can slosh over the drain, but even that might allow some water to remain, but at least some sediment may be reduced. One other thing, never accept a drink from another camper unless it is in a sealed container.  |
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Post by zanderman on Jul 4, 2020 19:51:35 GMT -5
One reason I tore out my Jacuzzi tub in the house was that it was just too hard to keep clean. Black mold coming out of the jets is the result, and no way I’m taking a bath in that, let alone drinking it.
I imagine bacterial growth in your RV water system is much the same.
No thanks. I’ll strive to keep my fresh water system as clean as possible.
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Nomad
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 41 
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Post by Nomad on Jul 23, 2020 9:17:08 GMT -5
So back on topic.... I have had to pull my ano rod to get my hot water tank to drain  I have opened my hot water low point drain and tried the T&P valve (same way I have done on my last two 5vers) but mine wont drain any tips?? |
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 23, 2020 11:30:35 GMT -5
So back on topic.... I have had to pull my ano rod to get my hot water tank to drain I have opened my hot water low point drain and tried the T&P valve (same way I have done on my last two 5vers) but mine wont drain any tips?? Keep it full and pull the anode in the fall. |
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Post by laknox on Aug 9, 2020 16:59:16 GMT -5
One reason I tore out my Jacuzzi tub in the house was that it was just too hard to keep clean. Black mold coming out of the jets is the result, and no way I’m taking a bath in that, let alone drinking it. I imagine bacterial growth in your RV water system is much the same. No thanks. I’ll strive to keep my fresh water system as clean as possible. I've never had an issue, nor have any of my many friends with RVs, ever had an issue with stuff growing in their fresh water tanks. Given that almost all municipalities have chlorination, I simply don't think it's much of an issue. I sanitized the fresh water system in my old FW exactly 1 time in 14 years. Lyle |
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Post by Edd505 on Aug 9, 2020 20:57:17 GMT -5
I've never had an issue, nor have any of my many friends with RVs, ever had an issue with stuff growing in their fresh water tanks. Given that almost all municipalities have chlorination, I simply don't think it's much of an issue. I sanitized the fresh water system in my old FW exactly 1 time in 14 years. Lyle I'm with you but never sanitized. Swam & washed in lakes, streams, stock tanks & RV water. Drinking water from refillable 3 gallon jugs so DW's stomach & service dog don't react to water changes, me I'll drink most any water lots of streams hunting. Had a cabin in ID that was all gravity fed stream from the mountain top, once step from glacier water. |
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Post by zanderman on Aug 14, 2020 9:32:25 GMT -5
I've never had an issue, nor have any of my many friends with RVs, ever had an issue with stuff growing in their fresh water tanks. Given that almost all municipalities have chlorination, I simply don't think it's much of an issue. I sanitized the fresh water system in my old FW exactly 1 time in 14 years. Lyle I'm with you but never sanitized. Swam & washed in lakes, streams, stock tanks & RV water. Drinking water from refillable 3 gallon jugs so DW's stomach & service dog don't react to water changes, me I'll drink most any water lots of streams hunting. Had a cabin in ID that was all gravity fed stream from the mountain top, once step from glacier water. I'm on a well... no chlorine in my fresh water. We now added a Travel Berkey for all of our drinking water... It can filter any water and make it safe and drinkable. |
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