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Post by Denver Dan on Jun 26, 2020 22:31:44 GMT -5
I just pulled a stupid move!!! Trying to get out of town and had a couple of distractions while prepping the '12 Inferno for our weekend getaway. Let the water fill up until the freshwater tank pushed up the floor and cabinets. Floor buckled up; cabinets snapped. Refrigerator cabinet got the worst of it. Had to pull refrigerator out and I will need to rebuild the cabinet where the refrigerator is housed and the side walls surrounding refrigerator. Floor has a ridge in it under the linoleum between two sections. I am praying it will settle back down, but I might be being overly optimistic. Just processing the damage I have done and how to take on this monumental repair. I am afraid it would cost $3,000-$5,000 at an RV dealer. My first concern is where i can get 1"x1" furring strips to replace those that broke. Second is how to patch the cabinets and walls to make things look somewhat normal without redoing every cabinet and wall. I figure you guys will have some incredible ideas. I do have an overflow hose. 2 years ago, when I first bought the unit usedoverflow would start draining water and would not stop, so I installed a valve on the overflow to shut off the tube from draining my fresh water tank. I could swear I opened it up before I started filling it.today, but apparently I closed it instead.     the |
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Post by tightwadted on Jun 27, 2020 6:09:23 GMT -5
Dan: I had same problem of overflow tubes siphoning, so I installed shutoffs also, your circumstance is a good reminder to have a check list! On to helping with a solution- 1x1s are easy to make with a tablesaw(if you don't already have one, just figure it in as part of the repair, when you're done you'll have a new tool)if you can get the walls and cabinets edges to lie flush, can you cover them with another wallpaper border strip? If not, maybe use your table saw to build a decorative shelf to cover it up? Looks like that bad white wall is by the stove, new shelf could be a spice rack. First step in a project is always the hardest, once you are underway it gets easier. Good Luck
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 27, 2020 9:15:01 GMT -5
I commented a number of times about the installation of valves on vents. Just don't do it. Those are vents and need to be open when filling or using water. The fix is to route the vents up and out of the coach well above tank level. You were seeing a spill, not a siphon, as the trailer was rounding a curve or was tilted.
Be sure that you open up below the tank and check the frame for bending as well as the condition of the tank before proceeding with carpentry work.
Insurance exists because people do dumb things, check it out.
Edit:
I warned YOU about those valves April 30, 2018.
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Post by Denver Dan on Jun 27, 2020 12:19:35 GMT -5
I commented a number of times about the installation of valves on vents. Just don't do it. Those are vents and need to be open when filling or using water. The fix is to route the vents up and out of the coach well above tank level. You were seeing a spill, not a siphon, as the trailer was rounding a curve or was tilted. Be sure that you open up below the tank and check the frame for bending as well as the condition of the tank before proceeding with carpentry work. Insurance exists because people do dumb things, check it out. Edit: I warned YOU about those valves April 30, 2018. Gee, thanks for the positive "I told you so" comment. I really needed that! When I asked on April 30, 2018, I stated it was not a spill; it was siphoning. I repeatedly pointed that out to YOU at that time and you didn't believe me... "I opened a faucet in the RV and it kept draining. Ran the pump with the faucet open, kept draining. Nothing seemed to stop the draining until the tank now seems empty again." Apparently you still don't believe me. I also called KZ about the issue at that time. Their fix was a new tank or valves, as i did. I cannot access the top of the fresh water tank to even feel where the vent tubes come out. As I said, I was distracted. I thought i was opening the valves, but clearly, i closed them. Had I not been doing two things at once, and getting distracted from the tank fill, I would not be posting right now. I appreciate your help, but I don't really appreciate such a self-righteous, know it all tone. |
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Post by nvguy on Jun 27, 2020 22:41:45 GMT -5
That ridge in the floor is the big concern. Key to this repair is getting the floor to settle. If that can be done getting the cabinetry back down will be much easier. You have to get under there to see & fix what is bent- it's also possible the flooring is broken / cracked, in which case getting it back down is probably going to be impossible short of removing lino and doing some cutting & replacing.
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Post by Denver Dan on Jun 28, 2020 11:58:56 GMT -5
That ridge in the floor is the big concern. Key to this repair is getting the floor to settle. If that can be done getting the cabinetry back down will be much easier. You have to get under there to see & fix what is bent- it's also possible the flooring is broken / cracked, in which case getting it back down is probably going to be impossible short of removing lino and doing some cutting & replacing. I am thinking that you're right about that floor. The worst part of that is that I will probably need to install different linoleum than what is currently there. I wish I could get everything back to original material and style, but to find a boneyard with all that matches a unit built 8 years ago might be impossible. The more we think about it, insurance will likely total it. We love the unit and everything it has fits our needs beautifully. I might buy it back from insurance if they total it and try to find a RV specialist who can repair it as close to original, properly, even if I spend a significant part of the settlement on a repair. Others have also suggested companies who consult with RV owners to refurbish and update interiors. That may be part of the plan, too. |
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Post by nvguy on Jun 28, 2020 23:49:45 GMT -5
Yes, I can see this being a total. You will never find the same wall finishes, so utilizing an interior refurbish company may be the way to go. But all this depends on getting a solid flat floor. Remember, if you buy it back, it will have a salvage title which can affect value.
Another thought (not a great one though) is if you want to wait is to approach a RV shop / dealer and propose this as a winter fill in project- better to keep their guys busy at a discount rate than lay them off.
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Post by Denver Dan on Jun 29, 2020 1:49:42 GMT -5
Yes, I can see this being a total. You will never find the same wall finishes, so utilizing an interior refurbish company may be the way to go. But all this depends on getting a solid flat floor. Remember, if you buy it back, it will have a salvage title which can affect value. Another thought (not a great one though) is if you want to wait is to approach a RV shop / dealer and propose this as a winter fill in project- better to keep their guys busy at a discount rate than lay them off. I have been preparing my wife for that very possibility of us being unable to use it at all in 2020. We might have to break out the old popup camper that we bought new in 2006 and I am saving to give to my kids. The local KZ factory dealer was Ketelsen; they are now Gander Mountain. Not real sure how good they are. Ketelsen was slipping in quality of work and customer service last time I had them do work in 2018. I am wondering if any RV boneyards might have the same wall/floor finishes. Someone suggested Bontragers a RV surplus dealer in Michigan. I have also been to advised to try contacting http://www.marshandsea.com. They are a couple who renovate RVs and provides advise on updating them. Perhaps if it gets totalled, i am considering updating the interior with the $$ from insurance. I am willing to consider pulling the unit to a shop elsewhere who specializes in this, so your suggestion of having the project completed in the winter isn't that far fetched.. Just not sure if the only KZ dealer in Colorado is my best choice if I pay to get the work done instead of doing it myself. If insurance covers it but doesn't total it, I don't think I have much choice but to pay a professional RV shop to complete the work. |
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Post by midlotexan on Jun 29, 2020 16:17:06 GMT -5
If you decide to keep it, you may want to check out Colaw RV Salvage in Carthage MO.
It is off of I 44 near Joplin and Springfield. I stopped in there last summer, they seemed to have enough parts to build an RV from scratch.
Just a random thought
Kirt
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Post by Edd505 on Jun 29, 2020 22:50:17 GMT -5
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Post by Denver Dan on Jun 30, 2020 9:19:50 GMT -5
If you decide to keep it, you may want to check out Colaw RV Salvage in Carthage MO. It is off of I 44 near Joplin and Springfield. I stopped in there last summer, they seemed to have enough parts to build an RV from scratch. Just a random thought Kirt Thank you! |
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Post by Denver Dan on Jun 30, 2020 9:20:25 GMT -5
That is an awesome link. Thanks!! |
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Post by Edd505 on Jun 30, 2020 21:15:38 GMT -5
That is an awesome link. Thanks!! Hope it helps. Again good luck with repair/replacement, might see you out and about.
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bluegrass
Seasonal RV’er
2019 1500Durango 259rdd
Posts: 177
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Post by bluegrass on Jul 1, 2020 6:52:19 GMT -5
Not sure if you have checked out Bontrager's....White Pigeon, MI and I think, Anderson's in the same area. We shopped at both...Bontrager's seems to have everything imaginable. I don't know where you are located or whether either have online ordering. Anyway, they are both within an hour of the KZ factory, perhaps they buy the over-runs or outdated materials. Just a thought.
Good luck, what a heart-break.
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luscombet8f
Weekender RV’er
My 1949 Luscombe T8-F & 251RLT
Posts: 65
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Post by luscombet8f on Aug 3, 2020 19:31:10 GMT -5
Eh, a proper and good REPAIR trumps Originality any day in my book...
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Post by laknox on Aug 5, 2020 11:15:29 GMT -5
I had somewhat the same issue, but it's because the tank they used doesn't have enough room to properly mount vent lines on TOP of the tank, so they stuck them through the side. This, of course, means that I 1) can't fill the tank completely and 2) causes drainage/siphoning, so I lose a significant amount of water while traveling; like 10, or more, gallons. The other issue is that they didn't use a tank with a pick up sump, so the pick up is about 1-1.5" above the bottom of the tank, so there's another 10, or so, gallons of water that can't be used. Just f'n CHEAP on KZ's part. The dealer, under warranty, elbowed the vent lines up and over the frame, so that helps...some. I was still getting some overflow towing down the road last week with a full tank. I'm seriously thinking of working with a mobile tech and pulling the belly cover and dropping the tank and replacing it with a "proper" tank. Just a total PITA that I have to carry some water totes with me for a 4 day boondocker so we don't run out of water, even when not showering.
Lyle
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 5, 2020 11:50:49 GMT -5
I had somewhat the same issue, but it's because the tank they used doesn't have enough room to properly mount vent lines on TOP of the tank, so they stuck them through the side. This, of course, means that I 1) can't fill the tank completely and 2) causes drainage/siphoning, so I lose a significant amount of water while traveling; like 10, or more, gallons. The other issue is that they didn't use a tank with a pick up sump, so the pick up is about 1-1.5" above the bottom of the tank, so there's another 10, or so, gallons of water that can't be used. Just f'n CHEAP on KZ's part. The dealer, under warranty, elbowed the vent lines up and over the frame, so that helps...some. I was still getting some overflow towing down the road last week with a full tank. I'm seriously thinking of working with a mobile tech and pulling the belly cover and dropping the tank and replacing it with a "proper" tank. Just a total PITA that I have to carry some water totes with me for a 4 day boondocker so we don't run out of water, even when not showering. Lyle The vents need to be run out of the coach well above the water level. It is not a siphon unless the water level is higher than the vent exit. To get the vents as high as possible with the present tank, install curved copper tubing into the current ports in a way that they curve up against the tank top. If you have a tank drain in the bottom of the tank, tee into it and connect the supply line there. |
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Post by laknox on Aug 5, 2020 12:42:49 GMT -5
I had somewhat the same issue, but it's because the tank they used doesn't have enough room to properly mount vent lines on TOP of the tank, so they stuck them through the side. This, of course, means that I 1) can't fill the tank completely and 2) causes drainage/siphoning, so I lose a significant amount of water while traveling; like 10, or more, gallons. The other issue is that they didn't use a tank with a pick up sump, so the pick up is about 1-1.5" above the bottom of the tank, so there's another 10, or so, gallons of water that can't be used. Just f'n CHEAP on KZ's part. The dealer, under warranty, elbowed the vent lines up and over the frame, so that helps...some. I was still getting some overflow towing down the road last week with a full tank. I'm seriously thinking of working with a mobile tech and pulling the belly cover and dropping the tank and replacing it with a "proper" tank. Just a total PITA that I have to carry some water totes with me for a 4 day boondocker so we don't run out of water, even when not showering. Lyle The vents need to be run out of the coach well above the water level. It is not a siphon unless the water level is higher than the vent exit. To get the vents as high as possible with the present tank, install curved copper tubing into the current ports in a way that they curve up against the tank top. If you have a tank drain in the bottom of the tank, tee into it and connect the supply line there. I know that on my old Komfort, with a "gravity fill", the vent was right next to the filler port. Made it =real= easy to know when you were getting full, as you'd get a shower. :-) I'd sure like to run the vent up even higher. Given the mods that the dealer did, I may just do that. I'll have to pull the belly to see where the tank drain is. Dolla to a donut that the =drain= is teed off of the pickup, in the side of the tank.  Lyle |
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 5, 2020 17:26:41 GMT -5
If you can find a way to run the vent tubes up thru the coach, then a cover like these might be used. I used a locking hatch and drilled numerous tiny holes in the door. If there is no port in the tank bottom, you can use the same trick with a copper tube to get the pickup as close to the bottom as possible. I learned all this the hard way, the first trip dry camping resulted in just enough water to take one very quick shower. I tore down and moved to a spot that had a hydrant close by. My dealer was useless, KZ referred me to an alternate dealer that was less than useless, then they sent a guy out from the factory to install the old type gravity fill. After some alterations and repairs to that fix, I finally have a system that is better than anything out there. PM me if I can be of more help. |
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Post by laknox on Aug 9, 2020 16:49:08 GMT -5
We just got back from a 4-day 'docker and the mods seem to have worked, as we had little to no water loss on the way up. Had 21 extra gallons in blue cubes and used almost none. One went into the fire pit and one went into the black tank. Shared out the rest.
Lyle
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the 
