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Post by trumpetgolf on Feb 7, 2020 8:17:58 GMT -5
I need the 5th wheel bottom height of my Durango D295CS on level ground. Don't have hitch in truck yet to get to level ground and my F-350 2014 seems high. Truck bed rails are at 57". Trying to find solutions to get to 6 inch clearance and don't want to be nose high. I have several ideas and would like some direction. 1. Lower rear of truck, 2. Raise RV at the axel (U-bracket has three holes and is at lowest setting), 2. Raise RV with 16" tires, 3. Adjust the kingpin (set at 13" from plate to bottom lip) 4. Lower hitch in bed. Thanks
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Post by laknox on Feb 7, 2020 11:31:01 GMT -5
May need to be a combo of all the above. IMO, 2-3" nose high usually isn't an issue, so long as you've got the bed clearance. 16" tires will give you 1/2 to 3/4", at most. Remember, it's half the diameter difference and you do have to watch wheel well clearance. Lowering the truck is easy to do and there seem to be various kits to do this. Adjusting the hitch and pin box are also on the table, but you have to be very careful that the pin box doesn't hit the bed in a turn, if it's set too low. You =can= fix this by cutting off the rear corners of the box without affecting structural integrity. If you need about 2", you could install a Correct Track system on the FW, though they may be hard to find as I believe they have been discontinued by LCI. The most radical solution is to cut off all the spring hangers and install a sub-frame on the FW to raise to the desired height. You'd want to have x-bracing if that's done. Since this would involve welding to the main frame, you might have to wait until the FW's out of warranty before taking this route.
Lyle
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Post by ronc on Feb 7, 2020 13:45:07 GMT -5
I think Lyle's answer pretty well covers it. I started out with an F350 SRW (2014) and our rig (Durango Gold 381REF) rode level. Once I learned about weights and got my rig weighed I learned that I was over the truck's GVWR by about 900 lbs. So I paid my "stupid tax" and traded for a new dually. Interestingly, the dually was an inch or two lower than the SRW truck. I assume that was due to the SRW truck having 20" wheels and the DRW truck having 17" wheels. We got airbags put on the dually to level it out the whole rig.
The SRW truck was a little tail high when unloaded and when the trailer was connected it would squat ... resulting in a level ride. The DRW truck was level unloaded and when the tailer was connected it also would squat making it tail low and trailer nose low ... airbags on the DRW truck brought it and the trailer back to level.
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Post by nvguy on Feb 8, 2020 0:10:48 GMT -5
The Correct Track kit is showing on the Lippert site. lippert link |
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Post by johnr on Feb 10, 2020 8:16:57 GMT -5
Hi, just my quick plug nickel... but if you haven't hooked the camper and truck up yet, then I wouldn't do anything. Wait until you get the hitch and work from there.
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Post by laknox on Feb 10, 2020 10:25:22 GMT -5
The Correct Track kit is showing on the Lippert site. lippert linkStrange, I've seen more than a few references to it being discontinued. Maybe they're just selling old stock... LCI sure won't tell anyone. Lyle |
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Post by trumpetgolf on Feb 11, 2020 15:07:06 GMT -5
Thanks for the help. Update- I contacted Lippert and the Correct Track is in fact discontinued. They did reference a lift kit but I am doing what johnr said and will hook up this weekend after installing the hitch rails and evaluate after getting to level ground.
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Post by Chuck on Feb 16, 2020 16:15:05 GMT -5
I'm with johnr, connect trailer to truck an go from there as see what you get ... Once you do this you can see if you need to raise or lower the pin box, raise or lower the 5th or do both ... I believe you will find that adjusting one or the other or both will get to the end result your looking for without flipping axles or spring hangers etc ... I also believe if your going to mess with the trailer frame it's worth every penny to take the trailer to MorRyde or one of the dealers an have them put on the Independent Suspension at which time they added bracing, measure height an make sure everything is equal across the board ... Of course saying the above as well a good trailer shop could more than likely do the same thing an make changes to level your trailer ... Safe Travels an good luck, please let the form know what you come up with  Chuck |
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Post by trumpetgolf on Feb 19, 2020 15:11:31 GMT -5
Update. Hitch in and was 10 inch high. Adjusted the hitch to 15" in bed total of 16" and got to 7 inchs nose high. Took it to a RV shop in Lancaster,PA for our first drive. A bit scary but did not have to pass any Amish buggys. They said it was not bad. Scheduled inspection and suspension work. Question is on replacing my 5th hitch. Pro Series 15K has just a paddle and I would like jaws. Looking at a Curt Q20. Can't go B&W since they only go down to 16". Thanks for the advise.
Chris
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Post by johnr on Feb 20, 2020 8:52:21 GMT -5
Isn't your pin box moveable, or is it already at the lowest setting?
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Post by ronc on Mar 2, 2020 20:06:26 GMT -5
Update. Hitch in and was 10 inch high. Adjusted the hitch to 15" in bed total of 16" and got to 7 inchs nose high. Took it to a RV shop in Lancaster,PA for our first drive. A bit scary but did not have to pass any Amish buggys. They said it was not bad. Scheduled inspection and suspension work. Question is on replacing my 5th hitch. Pro Series 15K has just a paddle and I would like jaws. Looking at a Curt Q20. Can't go B&W since they only go down to 16". Thanks for the advise. Chris Just a note ... if you lower the nose of the trailer (relative to the truck bed) ensure that you have at least 6” of bed rail to bottom of trailer clearance and more is better. If the distance between the bottom of your trailer and the truck bed rails is less than 6”, you run the risk of them hitting each other in off camber turns. Campgrounds are often not level and there is a definite chance of them hitting if that clearance isn’t adequate ... I have 7” FWIW. |
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