Well I picked up my 2010 14RK Sportsman Classic yesterday and started a complete review of each system beginning with electrical. First off the battery cannot hold a charge and so I picked up a new battery today. In the process of working around the battery I noticed that the "Short Stop" breaker next to the battery (screwed into the steel chassis)was totally rusted over. I did get continuity when tested but did not have any faith in the 2 connections so I removed it. There is no markings on the breaker to determine the amp rating and there is no information about it in the owners manuals other than make sure to replace it with the current amperage rating breaker. That was no help at all? Does anyone know the answer to this or know where I can get an answer fairly quick? My first call to KZ took a week to get a response.
Thanks for the quick reply. Yes it is a metal breaker but there is no stamping on it. Most that I looked at have a simple imprint which does not last in the environment. The wire gauge is 8. Your help will allow me to get the camper wired back up this morning. Much appreciated!
Got the 30amp breaker and battery installed and looks great. BTW I did get a confirm back from KZ on the 30 amp. Next item on the list as the WFCO 8735 power center and it tested faulty with no DC output to run the DC items within the camper. In addition there was no battery charging voltage . Replacement Progressive Dynamics #PD4135 power center to be delivered tomorrow from Amazon. While testing the WFCO I was bothered by the way the 30ft AC cord was shoved in and around the converter twisted all up in the wiring. I also ordered a Furion FCKIT30-PS 30A RV conversion kit that will allow a twist and lock exterior connection to AC power and perfectly replaces the original existing cable entry. Happy man about that!
While testing the WFCO I was bothered by the way the 30ft AC cord was shoved in and around the converter twisted all up in the wiring. I also ordered a Furion FCKIT30-PS 30A RV conversion kit that will allow a twist and lock exterior connection to AC power and perfectly replaces the original existing cable entry. Happy man about that!
I got rid of the twist-lock connection on mine. KZ didn't tighten the wires and they missed the location of one of the four mounting screws. One of the contacts in the cord became loose, so the cord end needed replaced. What I did was install a large hatch and built a box to contain the cord. I eliminated a possible bad connection, a fire hazard, a storage problem, excess cord laying on the ground getting wet & dirty, and possible theft.
I love the twist locks. One of my prior RV's had the 30amp that had to be stuffed back inside through a little hole. I can't count the times it tangled inside so it took two to get it out, one inside to straighten kinks under the seats and one outside pulling. PITA. lynnmor's issue was the installation not the cord itself. The twist lock is marine approved, I used one on my boat for years, both at he dock and under way with a portable generator.
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