Voltage Drops Normal?

You can use up to approximately 3,600 watts. The voltage will alter that number a bit. The wire sizes and lengths from the service panel to the outlet, then to the trailer and on to the various appliances all contribute to the amount of voltage drop. The AC compressor starting will momentarily pull high amps. The figures you provided seem to be on the low end of normal, so review all of the above mentioned wiring. Keep wire sizes large and lengths short as is practical.

It is good that you are measuring voltage, many have no clue about the problems that can arise. For example; 104.5 volts is the absolute minimum to operate an air conditioner without damage. I like to see 108 or more, if lower I then add in my autoformer and it will boost another 10%. Campgrounds often have inadequate wiring and voltage drops are common, especially when hot and the weekend crowd rolls in.

I suppose you are checking voltage at one of the interior duplex outlets?

Can you check the voltage at the pedestal while under load and with little load? If the voltage drops nearly the same right there, the campground is the problem. Expect just a bit lower voltage in the RV.

As you know, the 30 amp outlets at campgrounds are always abused by folks plugging in and out while under load. The fact that you tried another outlet reduces, (but not eliminates) the likelihood that the problem is there. Make sure that your plug prongs are bright by sanding with fine abrasive cloth. I always plug in and out multiple times to wipe the contacts inside the abused outlet and have a slightly better chance of getting good contact.

The converter sounds like it is working properly. That over 13 volts with the converter off will dissipate quickly and settle in under 13 volts. A discharged or faulty battery will cause a higher than normal draw, but your battery voltage indicates that it is OK. You can get a free battery test at AutoZone or Advance Autoparts if you want to remove that from the list.

Your 10 gauge cord is OK, if it isn't some Chinese knockoff using copper colored aluminum conductors. My Spree had the inlet screws completely loose, you need to pull the inlet and check behind it, because that is a serious fire hazard. I did away with the twist lock system and hard wired the cord eliminating one more trouble spot. I know, the world wants the silly things, I do not.

Yes, an autoformer is crazy expensive, search for a used one and look on the popular auction site. I made up my mind when at a very nice campground watching the voltage drop to 99.

If there is a 15 amp duplex outlet on the pedestal, it should provide the same voltage as the 30 amp. Your idea of pulling out the plug a small amount and probing behind ain't pretty, but it should work.

I was lucky in that there was plenty of room behind the inlet for cord storage. I simply removed the kitchen drawers and boxed in the area to contain the cord. If you have some room, you don't need to connect the entire length, just six feet or so will get you well outside with the trailer plug.

Hopefully my Photobucket site will work for you, they have totally hosed the thing with ads and you may need to go back and forth to enlarge each photo.

s1270.photobucket.com/user/lynnmor/library/story_17319

ad blocker extension for chrome removed the ads on the photobucket. Interesting setup. I tried viewing your water pump and water line projects but couldn't see them. Maybe I will be able to view your other projects now that I'm a member of this forum. My water pump is in the pass through forward compartment. I'm thinking I need to protect the city water inlet line to the pump and that whole messy pump setup during the winter. I've considered putting a hole in luan or whatever flimsy board the pump is screwed onto, so that heat from the bedroom can get into the forward pass through compartment and keep the pump and connecting lines from freezing. Then make a foam board box around the pump so the heat from the bedroom just heats the pump area and incoming city water line. Or I could just use a heat lamp or small 200watt heater. Plan to skirt with foam board as well, and run a small heater underneath. I wish the fresh water tank was under bed like it was in my class C, as it stayed nice and warm. Same with the pump in the class C.

Getting back to the electric issues. So the 15amp duplex outlets could show a drop in volts when I'm plugged into the 30amp. I didn't know this. I thought they were wired separately from the 30 and 50amp wiring. 

It is likely both the 30 & 15 amp outlets are on the same bus. If the voltage drops significantly on the 15 amp outlet, then the campground wiring is inadequate.

The wiring in the trailer is probably sized to code. #10 to the breaker panel, #12 for 20 amp breakers & #14 for the 15 amp breakers. If there is an issue, then it is the extremely sloppy workmanship at KZ. Your trailer was built when the industry had not yet recovered from a major recession and they were cutting every corner, not that workmanship is a whole lot better now.

Using the trailer in temperatures well below freezing will be a challenge, they are just not suited for that. The heated underbelly only gets heat from the furnace and that is just a pair of 2" flexible hoses blowing in and may not do much in some areas.

Here is the PB address again, don't know how much success you will have: link

I measured the 15amp duplex at pedestal while AC and WH on and measure about 121.7 volts or so. They must be on a different bus than the 30amp bus.

I measured the 15amp duplex at pedestal while AC and WH on and measure about 121.7 volts or so. They must be on a different bus than the 30amp bus.[/quote]

Looks like it. Was the voltage low in the trailer at the same time?

I guess you will have to probe behind the plug, please be careful.
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Yes voltage drops were all there inside the trailer. But 15amp read strong 121 to 122.

Even without the AC. For example I just measured inside power at 120.2. No AC running. Just two laptops 65watt and 130watt. Norcold fridge at setting 3 out of 5.

I just ran my water heater and volts dropped to 116v, then water heater & kuerig 109.8v, then water heater and microwave(1350watts) 112v, and then I ran them all: water heater, kuerig, and microwave 106.4. Had I turned on a gaming console or tv, then breaker would have flipped. Probably would have flipped if I left all three appliances on. O well, I guess I need move on. I still need to check the trailer 30amp inlet plug for loose wires. Doubt there will be any though.

0.5V drop is less than the volt drops in my trailer. I guess I could crawl under and check for loose wires along the frame; however, it gets harder to duck walk as you get older. I wonder if there is a place to ground wires behind the circuit/fuse box. I've looked behind the circuit/fuse box and it's a mess...wires going everywhere. I'm not going to mess with that area.

Thanks for the suggestions.