rrobb
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 23
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Post by rrobb on Apr 19, 2019 19:27:54 GMT -5
The light comes on, but the freezer is 50 degrees on max setting. The fridge is 60 degrees with setting of 3. I'm not sure if a low number is colder or warmer. The breakers and fuses look normal. I'm not sure what else to check. The manual is not helpful. Any help is appreciated.
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rrobb
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 23
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Post by rrobb on Apr 19, 2019 19:30:20 GMT -5
Ever chill
Model wd-282fwdc
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Post by Edd505 on Apr 19, 2019 21:45:09 GMT -5
most the bigger the number the colder. I looked at your model and it says 12Volt, is your battery full charged??
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Post by nvguy on Apr 19, 2019 23:03:26 GMT -5
From what found this unit draws some serious amperage- 11 Amps (or 8-9, depends on who you want to believe) @ start, then it drops to 3 Amps Regardless this fridge will draw down a battery pretty quick, so that's where I would start- making sure your battery and converter are supplying enough Amperage.
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rrobb
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 23
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Post by rrobb on Apr 20, 2019 6:15:33 GMT -5
I'm connected to shore power 50amp. My voltage meter reads 123v. The battery is full based on monitor panel reading. Makes me suspect the converter?
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rrobb
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 23
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Post by rrobb on Apr 20, 2019 9:10:29 GMT -5
I turned off shore power for thirty minutes. The battery still registered full reading. The fridge didn't get any colder. Is there anything else that works off the converter other than the fridge? I'm still but sure if it's the fridge our the converter and would like to Wycliffe the converter, but I'm but sure how. Thanks
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Post by kaboom on Apr 20, 2019 11:01:38 GMT -5
I would test the battery. Just because it shows full at the monitor panel does not mean it couldn't have a bad cell or cells. If so the battery may not have the amp capability to power the fridge even with the converter running.
Try unplugging from shore power and running all of your 12volt draws. Like lights and heater. See if they will run for a few hours.
However if the fridge is turning on at all I would suspect a problem with the fridge itself. I guess you could test the input power at the fridge circuit board and even do a amperage draw test. Also check one of the basics. Are the fridge vents free of obstructions?
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Post by Chuck on Apr 20, 2019 13:40:24 GMT -5
Also if you look on the cooling fins you will see a wire leasing to clip which is attached to one of the cooling fins ... You can move this clip to different fins to change the temperature of the frig an freezer ... Hope this helps  Chuck |
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Post by nvguy on Apr 20, 2019 21:12:32 GMT -5
As mentioned, a battery can have volts, but no Amps. Also if a battery is bad it can short internally thereby drawing all of the capacity the converter has to offer leaving no Amps (power) to run the fridge.
Really the best way to diagnose this is to measure the amp draw of the refrigerator (while also checking voltage) as that will tell you how much Amperage the compressor is drawing. If the compressor is running but only drawing minimal Amperage then one may assume there is a problem with the refrigerant system, as a running compressor tells you the control system is doing it's job.
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