baranski37
Weekender RV’er
Princeton, TX
Posts: 52
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Post by baranski37 on Feb 6, 2019 20:13:23 GMT -5
Greetings all, if some of you are on irv2 forums you may have already read about my newbie mistake pulling trailer after breakaway had engaged.
I’m mainly writing here to find out if my brakes are typical similar to other similar fifth wheels from KZ. Mine is front living and about 41’ with gross weight of 15K. I pull it with a 2018 F350 SRW, CC, 4x4, LB. I have a 16K Reese goosebox for hitch. That probably led to me/dealer attaching breakaway cable to spot that allowed it to be activated during a sharp right turn pulling uphill out of rv park.
I now have 4 new brakes and can’t get good information on setting the brake controller. I tried going 15-20 mph on level gravel road and setting controller 0.5 below point tires lock. I tried this about 2 weeks after we picked it up from dealer last July. I couldn’t get tire to lock so just ran at 10.0 on the Ford controller.
After having all brakes replaced last week the RV shop simply said it’s personal preference and set it where you like it.
I drove 200 miles back to the DFW area and ended up setting at 8.5 after I needed to stop quick and had trouble with it set at 8.0.
There were hours on that trip that I didn’t use brakes as I set truck cruise at 65 and watched traffic and mostly just used engine brake.
Finally question for you guys/gals. Would your trailer lock tires either on gravel or pavement? Where do you set your controller and what is weight of your trailer. Mine has Dexter 7K axles, never adjust brakes, never lube bearings. At recent service seals were good, but they replaced seals and packed bearings.
Have any of you found it necessary to install a third party controller?
Thanks for all info and advise
Regards Ron
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Post by nvguy on Feb 6, 2019 22:29:58 GMT -5
I have pretty much the same truck with the Ford controller. I haven't been able to lock a wheel with my 5th wheel either, but with my FB car hauler I have to pretty much shut the brakes off when it's empty or they lock up. In short, with my 5th wheel I set the controller so I feel the brakes are working- but not too extreme. So, set it where you feel the trailer is doing it's part to stop the combination.
I wouldn't install a third party controller because it will either be inertia or time based, whereas the Ford (or any factory controller) is tied into the factory brake system and works off of inertia as well as hydraulic pressure, it should also take into account if the tow vehicle's ABS is "active" (sliding wheels).
The following is from the Ford owner's manual:
6. If the trailer wheels lock up, indicated by squealing tires, reduce the gain setting. If the trailer wheels turn freely, increase the gain setting. Repeat Steps
5 and 6 until the gain setting is at a point just below trailer wheel lock-up.
If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lock-up may not be attainable even with the maximum gain setting of 10.
Also, for whats its worth, I had the breakaway pin pull twice when pulling into the same campground- two separate times. Both times while making a right turn. I can understand not feeling the brakes were on, these trucks have a crazy amount of H.P....
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Post by Edd505 on Feb 6, 2019 23:08:54 GMT -5
I have 2015 like your 18 and I run the controller at 8.5. It will not lock the brakes but I can feel the trailer braking. On the message center screen tab to trailer, and there are settings for type & brake effort (low/med/high) if I recall correct. Try those and see if that helps. I can check my truck in the A/M for the exact sequence or wording.
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Post by lynnmor on Feb 7, 2019 4:30:03 GMT -5
New brakes will take many miles to become fully effective. Just driving interstates will not do much so those miles count for nothing. Asking others about the controller settings they use is not very helpful because each trailer is different, for example the brake wire size, length and resistance can vary.
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Post by mkpaint on Feb 7, 2019 5:16:43 GMT -5
I have been setting factory controller at 6 to 7. Seems to work ok. Havent tried locking brakes. Did have cable pull and brakes did lock up. I set ot were i feel trailer brakes slowing trailer but not over power and acting like anchor.
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Post by johnr on Feb 7, 2019 8:42:15 GMT -5
My brakes don't lock up, probably because of the weight of the RV. I have lost the pin on the road and my dually sure knew that something was wrong, it was like pulling a lead sled up a hill in mud.
I do have a third-party controller because my truck didn't come with one built in. Does your controller have an emergency handle so that you can apply the brakes manually? If so, do you feel the trailer stopping your truck when you use it?
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caveman521
Newbie RV’er
Currently in Houston, TX
Posts: 19
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Post by caveman521 on Feb 7, 2019 9:29:37 GMT -5
I have a 14 F350 DRW, with a 17 DG 366FBT, and i leave my gain set at 10 with no issues on locking wheels or it feeling like the trailer is stopping the truck. I have pulled mobile scout 5th wheels in the past with the same gain setting on the factory controller.
Like they said it is really a personal preference on where you want your brakes set at, play with it a little and you will learn where your most comfortable towing at.
Cave
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Post by laknox on Feb 7, 2019 10:23:17 GMT -5
Two things...
First, my son-in-law's father's truck ('12 F350) has the TBC installed but, for some reason, someone talked him into also installing a P2 controller. Ever since, there's been a CEL with a brake controller error. In checking around a couple Ford fora, I found that it's possible to have a dealer lock out the TBC via programming so this error goes away, if you're dead set on using an external controller.
Second, on setting brakes, you should feel like you're stopping normally, unloaded, when your trailer brakes are set. In a perfect set, you should feel no push or pull. As they say, the truck stops itself, the trailer stops itself. Personally, I like just a =touch= of extra pull from the trailer, mostly so I know the brakes are working. :-)
Lyle
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Post by ronc on Feb 7, 2019 12:57:28 GMT -5
Although I have upgraded to electric over hydraulic disc brakes, like Edd55 I use 8.0 on my 2016 F350 ... 8.5 seems very reasonable.
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Post by lynnmor on Feb 7, 2019 13:17:06 GMT -5
Two things... First, my son-in-law's father's truck ('12 F350) has the TBC installed but, for some reason, someone talked him into also installing a P2 controller. Ever since, there's been a CEL with a brake controller error. In checking around a couple Ford fora, I found that it's possible to have a dealer lock out the TBC via programming so this error goes away, if you're dead set on using an external controller. Second, on setting brakes, you should feel like you're stopping normally, unloaded, when your trailer brakes are set. In a perfect set, you should feel no push or pull. As they say, the truck stops itself, the trailer stops itself. Personally, I like just a =touch= of extra pull from the trailer, mostly so I know the brakes are working. :-) Lyle Why would anyone think that controlling brakes with an inertia device is somehow better than the driver controlling with his foot? Tell the guy he is mistaken beyond belief. I agree on your advice about setting the brakes so that when stopping you should feel no difference towing or not. However I would not set the trailer brakes to do more work than necessary because drum brakes fade much more than the quality brakes on the truck. |
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Post by Chuck on Feb 7, 2019 14:11:06 GMT -5
I have 2005 F350 LB 4x4 DWD and I run the controller at 8.5. It will not lock the brakes but I can feel the trailer braking. I also judge traffic an try to maintain a good distance between me an the other people an travels between 60 an 65mph  Safe travels Chuck |
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Post by laknox on Feb 8, 2019 10:29:50 GMT -5
Two things... First, my son-in-law's father's truck ('12 F350) has the TBC installed but, for some reason, someone talked him into also installing a P2 controller. Ever since, there's been a CEL with a brake controller error. In checking around a couple Ford fora, I found that it's possible to have a dealer lock out the TBC via programming so this error goes away, if you're dead set on using an external controller. Second, on setting brakes, you should feel like you're stopping normally, unloaded, when your trailer brakes are set. In a perfect set, you should feel no push or pull. As they say, the truck stops itself, the trailer stops itself. Personally, I like just a =touch= of extra pull from the trailer, mostly so I know the brakes are working. :-) Lyle Why would anyone think that controlling brakes with an inertia device is somehow better than the driver controlling with his foot? Tell the guy he is mistaken beyond belief. I agree on your advice about setting the brakes so that when stopping you should feel no difference towing or not. However I would not set the trailer brakes to do more work than necessary because drum brakes fade much more than the quality brakes on the truck. Had I known what was going on before a couple weeks ago, I likely would have told him. Bit late, though, as he passed away about a month ago and they just sold the truck. S-i-l was overly worried about the CEL coming on, even though it had nothing to do with the engine. Hell, with 2 brake controllers, likely one of them would work. Lyle |
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