Greg
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 39 
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Post by Greg on Dec 13, 2018 22:32:14 GMT -5
This weekend I will be upgrading my TV. I have been towing loacally with my 1/2 ton Chevy, but it’s not near enough truck for the trip to the Keys we will leave for next week. We don’t pick the new truck up till this weekend, and I am trying to make a decision on something so parts can be ordered and received I time for our departure next Friday.
The new TV will be a 2018 Ram 2500 Crew SB, 4x4, 6.4 Hemi. It is a Big Horn with 20” wheels.
Current hitch- Sway Pro 2”x 9”x7hole shank/#1500 bars
TT Pin Weight- 1150
So here is my dilemma.
Current Setup- 1/2 ton Chevy- Unloaded= 20-1/2” receiver height/ Loaded= 18” receiver height- Unloaded Pin Height= 25”/ Loaded Pin Height= 22-1/2”
New- 3/4 Ton Ram- Unloaded= 24” receiver height/ Loaded= Unknown??
I have 4” drop remaining in my current shank. Dropping hitch head to the lowest setting should net and Unloaded Pin Height of 24-1/2”
Optimal TT Pin Height= Approx 22”
The primary question- Does any one have experience with a late model Ram 2500 and the effect of an approximate hitch load of #1200?
I have my doubts in the possibility of 1200 pound hitch load on the Ram 2500 creating enough sag to get my Pin Height back down in the optimal range? The Ram does have a 2-1/2” receiver vs the Chevy 1/2 ton with a 2”. Therefore, I would need to use the 2”-2-1/2” adapter to utilize my existing. I’ve looked into additional shanks offered by Blue Ox, however the 2-1/2” shank appears to utilize the same rise, drop, and extension as my current. The shanks that are offered with an additional drop are 2”, and would still require the 2”-2-1/2” adapter.
Any help, experience, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!
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Post by lynnmor on Dec 14, 2018 9:02:28 GMT -5
I guess that the SwayPro uses a standard size shank. Here is what is offered by eTrailer: linkI got rid of the adapter and went to a 2-1/2" shank on my Reese, it made quite a difference in reduced play. Keep in mind that the adapter can float and the supporting surfaces are 1/4" apart, some have reported bent pins and wallowed out holes. |
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Greg
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 39
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Post by Greg on Dec 14, 2018 22:34:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the response. The Sway Pro head mounts to a standard sized 2x2 drop shank with 1-1/4” hole spacing. After double and triple checking all of the measurements, this morning I decided to just go ahead and order a 2-1/2” shank with additional drop to it. This Equalizer shank at ETrailer seemed to have the proper dimensioning to get where I need. We will cross our fingers and see when it arrives! www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/Equal%7Ei%7Ezer/EQ90-02-4900.html |
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Post by mrcamper on Jan 13, 2019 14:42:15 GMT -5
Thanks Austin, without even knowing it you helped me with my problem. We have a new Trailer and we had a equalizer sway hitch. The only thing they could do was turn the adapter upside down but it only had four holes in it. It was short and not quite right adapter. But that one you purchased looks like it would work with this one but I'll do some checking. My TV is a F 150. Total weight of trailer fully loaded is 5600 pounds, which I've never had that much WT. But it looks like you're fix also work for me. I will check it out and see, but thanks anyway
Carl
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Greg
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 39
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Post by Greg on Jan 14, 2019 18:46:19 GMT -5
The shank I ordered worked out well. The only complaint is that it does not extend far enough from the truck to allow dropping the tailgate while hooked to my TT. The original setup that I was running on the Chevy did give enough clearance, but it’s not a deal breaker. The Sway Pro shank had a 9” extension, the new shank is 8”, but I’m an still lacking about 3” to open the tailgate. A 12” extension shank would have been ideal, but was unable to locate one to meet att of my needs. Honestly, after my 2600 mile trip to Florida and back, I have no desire to extend the hitch any further from the truck. I faught through 25-35 mph winds all the way down from PA to GA in I95 the Friday before Christmas. It was a white knuckle ride at best. Don’t even want to think how an additional 4” extension from the truck would effect that.
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Post by lynnmor on Jan 14, 2019 19:48:46 GMT -5
Would this style of coupler give you the tailgate clearance you need: linkI used a longer 2-1/2" shank to replace the much shorter 2" shank with adapter. I too, was concerned about the additional length but found no negative handling issues, if anything the ride improved. |
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Greg
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 39
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Post by Greg on Jan 14, 2019 20:54:41 GMT -5
Replacing the coupler is an option I hadn’t thought of.
I have been looking into some different options for the powered jack. The one on my TT has motor, light, and switch housing that sits about 6” out in front. I’ve noticed others that have the motor mounted to the back side to give more clearance between the jack and truck. I’ll need to get some good measurements and see what the best direction will be to go with.
All in all, provided I’m not pushing through severe wind, the truck/trailer combo handles very well. On a typical day, average winds, it’s a comfortable ride at highway speeds. The Sway Pro does the job of correcting the sway, but I don’t feel is does so much to prevent like an Equalizer or other high friction hitches. In reality, a 36-37’ (hitch to bumper)TT is a bit long for a crew cab shortbed truck. A long bed would be ideal, a long bed duallies even better. The winds we were traveling through, and the particular direction they were hitting from made for a LONG and tedious drive that day. For those days that I’m left with no choice, and have to push through, I just don’t want to make any changes that would add any more negative effect and contribute to the inevitable sway.
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Post by mrcamper on Jan 15, 2019 15:18:03 GMT -5
I don't know if it would be possible, but you might look into adding enough plate across your frame 6 inches back from where the jackets now. You could just move the jack back to that plate. And give yourself enough room for the tailgate. You could put one on the underside of the frame and one on the top part of the frame and match up the holes to where the pressure would be on both of them for your front jack. But remember ! I'm just a rookie !
So there's a good chance I don't know what I'm talking about !
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Greg
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 39
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Post by Greg on Jan 16, 2019 9:12:23 GMT -5
I don't know if it would be possible, but you might look into adding enough plate across your frame 6 inches back from where the jackets now. You could just move the jack back to that plate. And give yourself enough room for the tailgate. You could put one on the underside of the frame and one on the top part of the frame and match up the holes to where the pressure would be on both of them for your front jack. But remember ! I'm just a rookie ! So there's a good chance I don't know what I'm talking about ! Unfortunate the LP tank mount would become a problem then. There is 2-3” clearance between the jack and LP tank cover. One thing that did come to mind is rotating the jack 90 degrees to get the motor/control box facing one side. I’ll need to tear into it and see if it can be done by rotating the motor and gearbox, or if the mount needs to be modified. My better half (The ball n’ chain) doesn’t is against that idea because she has her decorations that drop over the jack and uses the light to illuminate them. Being that we need to load bikes in the bed now, preventing use of a cover, the whole tailgate thing isn’t really a major issue for now. Before upgrading From the 1/2 to 3/4 ton, the TT Pin Weight was maxed out. Because of that, I was hauling a number of things in the bed of the truck rather than the TT UB storage to manage the pin weight. At that time, the bikes were all getting loaded/strapped to the cargo carrier on the rear of the TT(a real PITA). This also made the use of a bed cover more critical to hide or protect those items. Bed access while towing was more important then. My plan is to add a good storage box to the rear of the TT over the winter. That should give us the additional storage we need on board, and then the truck bed will only be used for bikes and a cooler. |
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