baranski37
Weekender RV’er
Princeton, TX
Posts: 52
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Post by baranski37 on Aug 17, 2018 11:25:06 GMT -5
Greetings, I have been in Arkansas for the last week and we are getting a lot of rain. After the third day I noticed a small pool of water near outer bathroom wall behind toilet, but not from toilet it appears to be coming from the wall either the one that backs up to kitchen or hallway. I’m a little physically disabled so waiting on son in law to climb on roof. Does anyone know if 2019 Durango Gold 380 FLF (model with front living) have a plumbing or attic vent in the wall behind toilet? It seems to only happen during the heaviest rain (maybe rate 1”-2” per hour) none of the walls are wet it appears to come out bottom of wall, but no water is present on other sides of wall.
Thanks Ron
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Post by capemayal on Aug 18, 2018 7:41:36 GMT -5
Check the toilet pedal valve. Take the pedal cover off.its.not that uncommon for that valve to leak.
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Post by Chuck on Aug 18, 2018 11:02:34 GMT -5
I agree with capemayal, the toilet pedal valve is a great possibility, also all your pluming lines are in the floor an routed thought the aluminum structure/supports which your floor sits on an then routed upward to toilets, sinks, dishwasher etc with 90 degree fittings in most case's ... Safe Travels  Chuck |
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Post by Edd505 on Aug 19, 2018 8:41:37 GMT -5
I just had a similar in my 5W, water in front of the toilet. Crawled around looking for the leak to find the vent fan was not fully closed.
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Post by Chuck on Aug 20, 2018 12:43:51 GMT -5
LOL Edd I felt rain water the other night, looked up up an sure enough vent was open, rain was getting in with the fantastic fan cover on the vent Ugh 
Chuck
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baranski37
Weekender RV’er
Princeton, TX
Posts: 52
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Post by baranski37 on Aug 20, 2018 21:22:18 GMT -5
Update: I checked the flush pedal, dried area well with paper towel and found it was not leaking. Long story short, the fitting were all loose on kitchen sink located in corner. This discovered after still finding water on upper shelf of bottom cabinet right next to sink. Tightened all and appears to have fixed it. Leaving everything open for a couple days to dry out. For those that have not heard if you have the smart awning control some are recalled. My dealer said that is why I can only control awning light from outside. She said they have more than 100 in stock and about a 15 minute fix so I plan to drop by when we head back to Texas next week.
Last issue, main TV sound does not put sound out speakers mounted next to DVD player. There is an optic cord running down to dvd /stereo, but after trying to guide over the phone, she went to a new 380FLF and it didn’t work either. She suggested just using rca cables and said that got the new one working during her PDI.
Regards, Ron
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Post by capemayal on Aug 21, 2018 9:14:22 GMT -5
LOL Edd I felt rain water the other night, looked up up an sure enough vent was open, rain was getting in with the fantastic fan cover on the vent Ugh
Chuck
Our DG has 2 vent fans with rain sensors. From experience, they do work! |
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Post by rvdude on Aug 21, 2018 20:59:24 GMT -5
baranski37... I had my 2 "not so smart" arm controllers replaced before vacation. While at the KZ service department after the rally, they replaced one of them again. After I left the factory and went through a bunch of rain, they are both not working again from the inside controller or my phone. I can only operate them from the outside at the awnings. So, just a warning that the recall modules may or may not take care of the problem. It seems that water still gets into the new ones.
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Post by Chuck on Aug 22, 2018 7:45:20 GMT -5
LOL Edd I felt rain water the other night, looked up up an sure enough vent was open, rain was getting in with the fantastic fan cover on the vent Ugh
Chuck
Our DG has 2 vent fans with rain sensors. From experience, they do work! Our kitchen fan has the sensor as well but not the bathroom, this i put a cover over that fan, but it was raining so hard the rain came thought the fantastic fan cover while the bathroom lid cover was open if that make any sense LOL
Chuck
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baranski37
Weekender RV’er
Princeton, TX
Posts: 52
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Post by baranski37 on Aug 22, 2018 14:30:58 GMT -5
Well tightened all kitchen drain nuts. They were loose and hand tightened all this solved a major leak, but still have puddle forming at edge of toilet that goes under wall into hallway. I checked all around flush valve and incoming water supply and dry. After drying everything it appears there is small leak on bottom of toilet allowing small amount of clean ? Water to leak between floor and toilet on side closest to hallway a couple inches behind the bolt that secures toilet. I tightened both nuts, but didn’t want to over tighten since it is porcelain I believe. Any thought on how to fix this? It didn’t show up while we were 10 days in first RV Park it was after 5 hr drive to Arkansas. As for smart awning it quit allowing me to control lights outside or inside in fact there are no lights on keypad now. 380FLF 2019. About 4 weeks in use since pickup from dealer.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 22, 2018 14:55:41 GMT -5
If you believe that the water is coming from under the toilet, positively pull the toilet, inspect for damage or cracks and then replace the seal. It is an easy job, just remove the water line and the nuts that hold the base. While apart, add a shutoff valve for future service without shutting down the entire RV.
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Post by laknox on Aug 23, 2018 11:05:22 GMT -5
We, also, had a small leak around the toilet in our '17 D277RLT. I'd not used the house water on our first trip, but used city water (with a 30 psi regulator). We had no issues in the CG during our 3-day stay, but I noticed water on the floor when I looked at the rig a couple weeks later. Couldn't figure it out, but after the 2nd time I found water spots on the floor, I went ahead and stepped on the pedal and, d@mn if a fair amount of water didn't run into the toilet. There was also water coming from all faucets, and more than I thought would be possible. My =theory= is that there was water still under pressure in the lines and water heater and, the AZ heat (even in the shade), caused pressure to build up in the system, which caused the leak. I =did= check the inlet line and the nut was a hair loose, maybe 1/4 turn at most. When we went on our boondocker, we had no leaks while using the pump.
Lyle
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baranski37
Weekender RV’er
Princeton, TX
Posts: 52
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Post by baranski37 on Aug 30, 2018 18:34:11 GMT -5
Well back with update. I inadvertently filled the fresh tank so upon arriving at RV Park in Aubrey Tx I hooked Jose up, but did not turn on and used pump. For 2 days no leak near toilet. I then hooked up city water. I missed a drip at 90 degree fitting that dripped to edge of toilet and would run around edge of toilet then pool and go under hallway door. Just thought I would update in case it helps someone else
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Post by laknox on Aug 31, 2018 11:19:08 GMT -5
Well back with update. I inadvertently filled the fresh tank so upon arriving at RV Park in Aubrey Tx I hooked Jose up, but did not turn on and used pump. For 2 days no leak near toilet. I then hooked up city water. I missed a drip at 90 degree fitting that dripped to edge of toilet and would run around edge of toilet then pool and go under hallway door. Just thought I would update in case it helps someone else I'm thinking of getting a =good= regulator, that's adjustable, and dropping pressure to about 20-25 psi, then working up from there to see if I get more leaks. I'll also be sure to drain the lines after using city water, for sure. Lyle |
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 31, 2018 14:53:59 GMT -5
If you have a cheap regulator that is barrel shaped, then you should upgrade. 45 to 50 psi is fine, lower and you will have a weak shower. The plumbing will handle 50 psi just fine IF everything is installed and tightened correctly. Lowering pressure to compensate for a poor connection is just asking for trouble, just do the connection correctly.
I have no clue what you mean about draining lines, I see no reason for that.
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Post by Chuck on Sept 2, 2018 8:50:26 GMT -5
I run my regulator at 45psi an so far no problems except at our last stop some how the washer in the fosset head had dropped out an was laying in the sink, replace it an everything was fine ... I know the Kz tech had replace the gasket on such so maybe he forgot to replace the rubber washer in the head, don't know, was sure strange Ugh .... Safe Travels Chuck |
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Post by laknox on Sept 4, 2018 11:03:07 GMT -5
If you have a cheap regulator that is barrel shaped, then you should upgrade. 45 to 50 psi is fine, lower and you will have a weak shower. The plumbing will handle 50 psi just fine IF everything is installed and tightened correctly. Lowering pressure to compensate for a poor connection is just asking for trouble, just do the connection correctly. I have no clue what you mean about draining lines, I see no reason for that. On our first trip with this new rig, we went to a CG, where I did use the regulator, supposedly a 30 psi one, and did not use the pump at all. I did have a small leak with the regulator in place and did find that the inlet line wasn't tight; about 1/4 turn with my fingers. After we got home, and had the trailer parked at the house for a couple days for cleaning and re-arranging, we noticed a bit more water around the toilet. NO water was hooked up and the pump was not on. When I stepped on the toilet valve, I was surprised that a fair amount of water was coming out. I checked the lav and kitchen faucets and there was a fair stream out of both of them. The =only= thing I can think of is that there was air in the water heater and it was acting as an accumulator and forcing water back through the cold side. I figure that I got close to 2 gallons of water out of the faucets and toilet with no hose hooked up and the pump off. Remember, this is after using the rig for 3 days and 3 showers, so there =should= have been no air in the water system, anywhere I can think of. Given that we went from high 80's temps to 110 temps, heat expansion is a possibility, but I can't see =that= much taking place. So, my conclusion after this is to drain the water lines and heater after each use on city water. We had NO issues when using the pump on our boondocker, though. Lyle |
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Post by lynnmor on Sept 4, 2018 12:14:26 GMT -5
If you have a cheap regulator that is barrel shaped, then you should upgrade. 45 to 50 psi is fine, lower and you will have a weak shower. The plumbing will handle 50 psi just fine IF everything is installed and tightened correctly. Lowering pressure to compensate for a poor connection is just asking for trouble, just do the connection correctly. I have no clue what you mean about draining lines, I see no reason for that. On our first trip with this new rig, we went to a CG, where I did use the regulator, supposedly a 30 psi one, and did not use the pump at all. I did have a small leak with the regulator in place and did find that the inlet line wasn't tight; about 1/4 turn with my fingers. After we got home, and had the trailer parked at the house for a couple days for cleaning and re-arranging, we noticed a bit more water around the toilet. NO water was hooked up and the pump was not on. When I stepped on the toilet valve, I was surprised that a fair amount of water was coming out. I checked the lav and kitchen faucets and there was a fair stream out of both of them. The =only= thing I can think of is that there was air in the water heater and it was acting as an accumulator and forcing water back through the cold side. I figure that I got close to 2 gallons of water out of the faucets and toilet with no hose hooked up and the pump off. Remember, this is after using the rig for 3 days and 3 showers, so there =should= have been no air in the water system, anywhere I can think of. Given that we went from high 80's temps to 110 temps, heat expansion is a possibility, but I can't see =that= much taking place. So, my conclusion after this is to drain the water lines and heater after each use on city water. We had NO issues when using the pump on our boondocker, though. Lyle You should always have some air in the water heater to allow for expansion. When pressurizing the system, either by city water or pump, always open a cold and a hot water faucet till the air is expelled. After draining a water heater and then refilling, the correct small amount of air will remain after purging the lines like I just said. The only way you could have gotten 2 gallons with no pump or city water is if you did not purge the air from the water heater after it was drained. Test to see if you have air in the water heater by connecting to city water and purging the lines, if there is a massive amount of air, then you need to find out who or what allowed that to happen. There is no need to drain lines to relieve pressure but the water heater will slowly absorb that small amount of air over time, so every few months it is a good idea to re-establish the small air pocket. If you have leaks they need repair, the water pressure isn't the problem. |
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Post by laknox on Sept 5, 2018 10:51:15 GMT -5
On our first trip with this new rig, we went to a CG, where I did use the regulator, supposedly a 30 psi one, and did not use the pump at all. I did have a small leak with the regulator in place and did find that the inlet line wasn't tight; about 1/4 turn with my fingers. After we got home, and had the trailer parked at the house for a couple days for cleaning and re-arranging, we noticed a bit more water around the toilet. NO water was hooked up and the pump was not on. When I stepped on the toilet valve, I was surprised that a fair amount of water was coming out. I checked the lav and kitchen faucets and there was a fair stream out of both of them. The =only= thing I can think of is that there was air in the water heater and it was acting as an accumulator and forcing water back through the cold side. I figure that I got close to 2 gallons of water out of the faucets and toilet with no hose hooked up and the pump off. Remember, this is after using the rig for 3 days and 3 showers, so there =should= have been no air in the water system, anywhere I can think of. Given that we went from high 80's temps to 110 temps, heat expansion is a possibility, but I can't see =that= much taking place. So, my conclusion after this is to drain the water lines and heater after each use on city water. We had NO issues when using the pump on our boondocker, though. Lyle You should always have some air in the water heater to allow for expansion. When pressurizing the system, either by city water or pump, always open a cold and a hot water faucet till the air is expelled. After draining a water heater and then refilling, the correct small amount of air will remain after purging the lines like I just said. The only way you could have gotten 2 gallons with no pump or city water is if you did not purge the air from the water heater after it was drained. Test to see if you have air in the water heater by connecting to city water and purging the lines, if there is a massive amount of air, then you need to find out who or what allowed that to happen. There is no need to drain lines to relieve pressure but the water heater will slowly absorb that small amount of air over time, so every few months it is a good idea to re-establish the small air pocket. If you have leaks they need repair, the water pressure isn't the problem. Never had an issue like that with my old Komfort in 13 years. If there's that much air in the heater, I still don't see how it could expand that much just sitting there a day after being used. As I said, I may just start opening the low-point drains and faucets after each use and go from there. I'll also be sure to check the inlet line on the toilet on a regular basis to make sure it's tight. Not sure there's enough room to get some pliers on the nut. At least it =has= a nut. The old Komfort just had a hose and clamp, and it would work loose. THAT was a right female dog to re-tighten, too! Lyle |
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