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Post by laknox on Jul 27, 2018 16:24:45 GMT -5
So, grabbed the FW today to prep it over the weekend for a short 'docker next week. Pulled it up to my Dad's place and, trying to be =very= aware of clearances, still managed to snag the top on a low branch. Cracked the front vent (Eternabond until it gets replaced) but ripped off the front attic vent. (Insert many bad words here...) Fortunately, it seems no other damage, though it did give me a chance to check the roof, which would have been done tomorrow anyway.
One thing I noticed was a =total and complete= cheapout by KZ. On the front roof-to-cap seam there is a nice line of silicon covered by a 1+" wide bead of Dicor. Nice...except the 3-4" =gap= at each end, which is why I know there's silicon underneath. WTF? They =really= couldn't run another 3-4" of Dicor on each end to completely cover the silicon underneath? Which, BTW has cracked open, letting in G*d knows how much water... IMO, it's this little stuff that drives us customers ape-sh!t crazy, moreso than the really big stuff.
Now, a question for y'all. Should I just put a strip of Eternabond along those gaps in the Dicor or get a tube and seal it that way?
So, it's off to CW for parts and more Eternabond...
Lyle
p.s. I'll try and get some pics of the seal and post them.
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 27, 2018 19:09:18 GMT -5
I'll try and get some pics of the seal and post them. I'm not sure what you are saying about silicone, that is a product that usually isn't used. If there is silicone down there, it might be impossible to get Eternabond to adhere to it. Perhaps the photos will help. |
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Post by Chuck on Jul 27, 2018 22:37:44 GMT -5
I don't believe that Kz would have used silicon, maybe the dealer you bought it from would but I have wrote down the question when we are at the factory  Chuck |
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Post by nvguy on Jul 28, 2018 18:51:34 GMT -5
I to find it hard to believe that KZ used silicone on a roof seam, then put Dicor on top of that...but nowadays, nothing surprises me. I would probably continue with Dicor rather than mix sealants.
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Post by Chuck on Jul 28, 2018 20:38:53 GMT -5
So, grabbed the FW today to prep it over the weekend for a short 'docker next week. Pulled it up to my Dad's place and, trying to be =very= aware of clearances, still managed to snag the top on a low branch. Cracked the front vent (Eternabond until it gets replaced) but ripped off the front attic vent. (Insert many bad words here...) Fortunately, it seems no other damage, though it did give me a chance to check the roof, which would have been done tomorrow anyway. One thing I noticed was a =total and complete= cheapout by KZ. On the front roof-to-cap seam there is a nice line of silicon covered by a 1+" wide bead of Dicor. Nice...except the 3-4" =gap= at each end, which is why I know there's silicon underneath. WTF? They =really= couldn't run another 3-4" of Dicor on each end to completely cover the silicon underneath? Which, BTW has cracked open, letting in G*d knows how much water... IMO, it's this little stuff that drives us customers ape-sh!t crazy, moreso than the really big stuff. Now, a question for y'all. Should I just put a strip of Eternabond along those gaps in the Dicor or get a tube and seal it that way? So, it's off to CW for parts and more Eternabond... Lyle p.s. I'll try and get some pics of the seal and post them. If it's on the corners I was told not use self leveling, use the non leveling
Oh Ya you want to hear a big mistake, I back our 5th wheel into my tractor shop, thought I wasn't close enough to plug in power cord so I backed another 1ft, wrong thing to do ... I can now tell you that with shipping etc a new ladder shipped to Tacoma WA. for the back of a Durango Gold is very, very, very, very costly ... I'm still looking for the gold plating on it for the price
I had to pay .. Ugh 
I can also tell you they will not sell part of a ladder, it's all or nothing, so I have a very nice lower half of a ladder an all the hardware to mount the complete ladder along with some nice upper an lower hinge sets an extra steps now as spare's ...
Chuck
Chuck
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Post by laknox on Jul 30, 2018 10:11:27 GMT -5
Well, I simply used some tape on the corners and a couple scrapes on the roof. Had to put a strip on the front vent, too, as it was cracked. =That's= going to be a job to change when the time comes. Weird vent they use. Absolute junk for the screen. Being as careful as possible, I still managed to break off 2 of the locking tabs as they're just plain sun-rotted. From the looks of things, I'll likely have to replace the entire cove insert.
I was going to super glue the attic vent cap back onto the base, but the cap is too deep and won't reach the base unless I scrape off the caulk. So, it's held on with duct tape, for now. I used up all my Eternabond, so this was the next best option.
After looking at the roof seal a bit more carefully, I agree it's not silicon, but some sort of caulk. On the left front, the crack in it was well > 1/16". I do have a pic, but need to figure out how to get it posted. Will take a bit, so don't hold your breath...
The =latest= issue is that the toilet inlet is leaking. Pulled it home and found where water had dried on the floor =and= there was a small puddle forming. Seems that the check valve in the pump is =perfect= and not allowing =any= leak down. I opened the kitchen faucet and got a good 30 seconds of water from it. Same with the toilet. Much, much more water than I'd expect. Did KZ put an accumulator on the water lines, or something? Pump was off and I wasn't hooked up to city water.
Lyle
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 30, 2018 12:02:42 GMT -5
The air pocket in the water heater acts as an accumulator.
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Post by laknox on Jul 31, 2018 10:12:25 GMT -5
The air pocket in the water heater acts as an accumulator. Logical, but I got over a gallon, from the faucet and the toilet. FWIW, I never had that issue with my old Komfort, which had a larger (10 gal) heater. Just sayin'... Good news is that we had a pretty good storm roll through last night and the vent cap stayed in place. :-) Lyle |
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