clark
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 5
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Post by clark on Jun 15, 2018 19:20:00 GMT -5
Wife and i bought a 2018 KZ sportsman last year,2017. We brought it home on interstate highways and never really noticed the brakes weren't working. The brake controller showed output .This June we are getting ready to do some traveling so I did a check of everything including brakes on the trailer. They do not work!The horse to pull the trailer is a 2008 ford super duty diesel. I checked the wiring on the truck back to the plug. all is as it should be. getting 12 volt at the plug on the brake pin. checked the power to the rear axle on the trailer and its the same,12 volt. still no brakes.Maybe a very slight drag when the manual lever is applied all the way on the controller. so i did research on the interactive brake controller and there are issues with them. So replaced it with a aftermarket controller and still no brakes. so i had a friends truck hooked to it ,manually applied the brakes and still no brakes. So I have a old f 350 1 ton dump I pull my flat beds with. straight old controller in it. works the brakes great on the flatbeds. Hooked it to the camper, still no brakes. So I pulled the pin on the brake away system on the trailer and no brakes!This sportsman has less the 100 miles on it. Has anyone ever had the same problem?It even has the KZ service manager stumped.I am thinking defective brake magnets? Any ideas? Thanks!
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 15, 2018 19:47:22 GMT -5
You have two threads on the same subject, you might want to delete one. Here is how to test brake magnets: link |
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Post by nvguy on Jun 15, 2018 23:50:55 GMT -5
I don't think you have 4 defective magnets. The odds are against that. My guess is a bad connection at the front junction box. Probably the ground wire..but let's see...
Try doing the test initially with the breakaway pin pulled. I say this because most brake controllers don't deliver a full 12 volts sitting still, they apply voltage according to how hard the brakes are applied (unless the gain/ settings are all the way up).
You said you have 12 volts at the rear axle. Do you have any amps? This is why I recommend the use of a test light, got to have amps to light the light whereas a meter will show voltage even though there isn't enough amperage to do anything.
If you did use a test light, and it lit at the rear (or any of the wheel positions) then it's time to check for proper ground connection. Try connecting one end of the test light to the ground wire and the other to the power side- see if the light comes on, if it does, then the grounds are good & it's time to start chasing the harness froward.
If the test light doesn't light at a wheel position, then it's just a matter of back tracking. I would start at the junction box that is usually located at the tongue / 5th wheel, look for bad connections. Verify voltage after each connection, just follow the wires.
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Post by myredracer on Jun 18, 2018 17:48:04 GMT -5
Agree, check the wiring connections in the junction box in the A-frame. I've found numerous wiring problems in our Spree TT due to poor workmanship. For ex., I simply touched the positive wire off the battery to a mini circuit breaker in the A-frame and it fell clear out of the crimp connection. Might also check the splices in the wires at the brake drums. A voltmeter will help diagnosis. I ended re-doing all the connections in our A-frame and moved them into a watertight junction box. The 4x4 metal boxes they use are meant for indoor use in dry locations and therefore water easily gets into splices causing corrosion.
Not surprised the dealer can't figure it out...
Gil, Deb and Dougal the Springer Spaniel
2014 KZ Spree 262RKS
2009 F250
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eman
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 19 
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Post by eman on Mar 18, 2019 15:26:15 GMT -5
I’ve got a similar issue. Thanks for the tips. Gonna heck out that junction box.
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eman
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 19
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Post by eman on Mar 18, 2019 19:54:42 GMT -5
Checked the junction box. Some corrosion, cleaned them up and no change. When I manually use the controller the brakes engage. It’s a factory installed controller.
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Post by Edd505 on Mar 18, 2019 22:30:56 GMT -5
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Post by nvguy on Mar 18, 2019 23:59:02 GMT -5
Checked the junction box. Some corrosion, cleaned them up and no change. When I manually use the controller the brakes engage. It’s a factory installed controller. If the trailer brakes work manually, then we know the wiring from the controller to the brakes is OK. The problem most likely lies within the circuit that "tells" the brake controller to apply the trailer brakes. With a factory controller there may not a simple wire from the brake light switch to the controller. It could very well be controlled by one of the many computers in your tow vehicle. What I would start with the owners manual to see if there are any fuses that power the controller. |
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Post by lynnmor on Mar 19, 2019 4:47:59 GMT -5
How are you testing the brakes? What tow vehicle do you have? Factory controllers provide little or no braking below 10 MPH.
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eman
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 19
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Post by eman on Mar 19, 2019 5:37:53 GMT -5
I’m new this, I drove for a year just thought that’s how it felt till I checked my brakes that are only a year old and saw a lot of wear already.
It’s a ‘13 f150. I tested by driving around a parking lot. At 25mph. Adjusting the gain. Never felt like the trailer was engaging. Was always being pushed.
When I manully activate the controller I feel like I dropped an anchor. Last night I had my son listen to the hubs while sitting in the driveway. I’d manually engage the brakes he could hear them. Not when I stepped on the brake.
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Post by lynnmor on Mar 19, 2019 10:24:33 GMT -5
Did you set the gain to the maximum to test?
Did you follow the information in your Ford owners manual?
Did you manually adjust the brake shoes?
Did grease ever get on the brakes?
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eman
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 19
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Post by eman on Mar 19, 2019 13:49:59 GMT -5
Did you set the gain to the maximum to test? Yes Did you follow the information in your Ford owners manual? Yes Did you manually adjust the brake shoes? No, but is this necessary if they grab when then controller is manually activated? Did grease ever get on the brakes? No |
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Post by lynnmor on Mar 19, 2019 14:11:29 GMT -5
Did you manually adjust the brake shoes? No, but is this necessary if they grab when then controller is manually activated? [/quote] You wouldn't think so, but we don't know the difference in output between manual application and foot brake. If you have self-adjusting brakes, they can fail. You need to adjust manual adjusting brakes regularly. Brake information |
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Post by nvguy on Mar 21, 2019 21:54:47 GMT -5
There are two fuses for the trailer brakes. One is in the fuse panel under the hood, that's the main power for the brakes themselves, it's 20A, since the brakes work manually, then that fuse is probably OK. The other panel is in the passenger side of the dashboard. Fuse # 37 is for the brake controller itself. Give it a check.    |
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eman
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 19
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Post by eman on Mar 23, 2019 14:40:33 GMT -5
Just saw this post! It’s funny cuz I just had another truck hook up to my trailer and everything works. I was logging on to update my findings. Alas I checked the fuse. It appears to be good. Prob swap it anyway just to eliminate that as a possible. Good news is I’ve at least cut my problem in half 🙂
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