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Post by laknox on Apr 25, 2018 10:46:37 GMT -5
So, I =finally= got to pull my new FW out of storage to start loading and prepping it for some trips in the near future. Found some small issues and dealing with DW's ideas of what goes where, but nothing major. The rig was delivered with a full fresh tank after it was de-winterized at the dealer. I've found the low-point drains, but have as yet to find a "main drain" for the fresh tank, as the so-called manual says there is. Is there, in fact, a "main drain" for the fresh tank? My old Komfort had one, with its own blade valve. I will admit that I haven't yet grabbed the creeper and done a belly crawl, so if there's a hidden valve underneath, I've not seen it. I did open up the hot/cold low-point valves and got a total of about 3-4 gals of water out, but the monitor still says the tank is full. I =did= open both hot and cold faucets while draining.
TIA,
Lyle
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Post by johnr on Apr 25, 2018 13:14:35 GMT -5
There should be a separate valve for your fresh water tank. I don't think it would be a blade valve, as those are normally only for the dump systems.
My low point drain lines are red and blue tubes with ball valves to open and close them. My fresh tank drain looks exactly the same except it has a white drain tube. It sits directly in front of the road-side tires. In the same area you might also see the fresh tank overflow line which is normally clear and will not have a valve on it.
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Post by laknox on Apr 25, 2018 15:47:19 GMT -5
There should be a separate valve for your fresh water tank. I don't think it would be a blade valve, as those are normally only for the dump systems. My low point drain lines are red and blue tubes with ball valves to open and close them. My fresh tank drain looks exactly the same except it has a white drain tube. It sits directly in front of the road-side tires. In the same area you might also see the fresh tank overflow line which is normally clear and will not have a valve on it. Thanks, John. I'll check. Lyle |
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Post by laknox on Apr 25, 2018 23:32:10 GMT -5
OK, so I found it. Behind the LR tire, almost unreachable without having Shaq-length arms or crawling underneath. Very convenient...NOT! How hard would it have been to add 2 PEX elbows and 2' of line to move it?
Lyle
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Post by lynnmor on Apr 25, 2018 23:59:20 GMT -5
How hard would it have been to add 2 PEX elbows and 2' of line to move it? Lyle In the RV business, every nickel counts. They build the basic box and you need to make it useable. |
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Post by Chuck on Apr 27, 2018 11:55:19 GMT -5
Lyle I have to crawl under ours to get at the drain even thought I can see it  Safe Travels an happy Glamping Chuck |
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Post by laknox on Apr 30, 2018 12:49:21 GMT -5
OK, so got my first chance to really go over my rig since bringing it home, and to use a couple things. First off, I found a 30' 50a extension cord, nearly new, on CL, so I could plug in to my 30a plug I'd had installed years ago. Was able to fire up the A/C while we loaded and did some cleaning. Even having been plugged in on 20a for a few days, my "new" battery is pretty much toast. It was flat when we looked at the rig at the dealer and they had to use a jumper to get the slides to cycle and lights to work. I was assured that it would be "fine", which I knew to be a lie and was adamant that they change it out, but they refused to do so. I'm hoping that Interstate will warrant it based on purchase date, so I'll at least have a decent battery. I want to keep it, but still plan on swapping it out, and adding a 2nd box with 2 GC2 6v's for "true" deep cycle performance. Not real happy with the dealer about this. Second, in crawling around looking for the tank drain, I noticed a few "little things" that are the type of stuff that can just drive a customer nuts. Found at least 2 self-tapping screws anchoring gas lines that weren't screwed in straight, or barely at all. Will have to double-check those in the near future. The screws anchoring the battery box stick out about 1" below the floor and are sharp as hell. Will have to get the Dremel out and get them trimmed down. Will make sure to use "proper" length screws when I install the 2nd box. Third, even though I have factory JT's installed, using the 4-point system makes this FW about 100% more stable than my old Komfort. It was amazing, and even DW commented on it. I can only imagine how stable it'll be when I actually lock them down!  Regarding the 4 pt system, it sure has a wide learning curve and some things just don't make sense. Like when you get an error code and it tells you to manually retract everything, but it will only retract about 1" at a time and you just have to keep bumping it up time after time until it gets far enough retracted to clear the code. I still can't figure out what generated the error in the first place. Second, IMO stupid thing, was that I ran out of jack on the RR while parked on the street in front of my house. I know there's some grade along the street and the street has a pretty good crown, but didn't think that it would be so much that it would lift the entire passenger side up so there was about 3" space between the tires and the ground. Some weight had also been taken off the driver's side and I'd've thought that the system would have been programmed to drop that side back down to lower the whole thing so the RR jack would have a touch more travel. Oh, well; part of the learning curve. Another thing that I'm not happy with the dealer over is that the "rub rail" trip that runs up the RR corner of the FW was cut too short and literally slipped completely out of the rail and was laying on the ground. Needed to be about 4" longer to be properly anchored. At the top of that rail, there's a big gob of sealant that seals up the corner that has cracked open. Yes, I know that this sat on the lot in the AZ sun for a long time but, really, how long would it take a tech to scrape the old stuff off, cut a correct length of trim and reset it, then put another big gob of sealant back on the corner? Nope. Said KZ wouldn't cover it so they wouldn't do it. Not my problem they sold it for such a cheap price just to move it along but they should still do the little things that might keep a customer happy and keep them coming back. Oh, well. Enough ranting. Got to start camping! As it is, it looks to be June before we can get out.  Lyle |
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Post by Chuck on Apr 30, 2018 20:41:22 GMT -5
Lyle I don't care how cheap you paid for your trailer it is new an under waranty an thus they should have fixed it ... I forget the dealer over in West Texas Edd505 but if your over 150 miles away from home an need something fixed call Kz CS service an see if they will steer you to a dealer who will fix such ... Far as screws again the dealer when doing their PDI should have repaired such, gas lines are dangerest an leaving something like that undone is not good as you know, is it an easy fix, yes but what you have described tell me the dealer is just flat lazy an could care less about his customers Ugh !!! Last check your propane hose's an make sure they are not leaking before you start to camp. there is three of us that have had to replace both hose's in the past year Safe Travels, we started camping last month an are again leaving in the morning for 4 days on the Ocean Chuck |
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Post by laknox on May 1, 2018 13:28:48 GMT -5
Lyle I don't care how cheap you paid for your trailer it is new an under waranty an thus they should have fixed it ... I forget the dealer over in West Texas Edd505 but if your over 150 miles away from home an need something fixed call Kz CS service an see if they will steer you to a dealer who will fix such ... Far as screws again the dealer when doing their PDI should have repaired such, gas lines are dangerest an leaving something like that undone is not good as you know, is it an easy fix, yes but what you have described tell me the dealer is just flat lazy an could care less about his customers Ugh !!! Last check your propane hose's an make sure they are not leaking before you start to camp. there is three of us that have had to replace both hose's in the past year Safe Travels, we started camping last month an are again leaving in the morning for 4 days on the Ocean Chuck As a lot of people say, it's just not worth the hassle, especially having to drive nearly 100 miles to the selling dealer or the hassle of going to a closer dealer who may not "get to it" until next September, if that. I spoke with Interstate and they likely will replace the battery since nobody bothered to pop the date tabs off and I can argue that it was new when I got the FW last Nov. At minimum, I'll give it to the s-i-l, along with my cheapo HF 45w solar panels, for camp lighting. :-) Lyle |
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Post by johnr on May 1, 2018 15:13:36 GMT -5
Regarding the JT Strong Arms, from personal experience, make sure you loosen them before you move the jacks to hook up. One fine Sunday morning, I did just that and sat there beating on the T-handles with a hammer to get them loose. It sure made a heck of a noise when I retracted those jacks, dug right into the metal.
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