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Post by rvbrian on Mar 4, 2018 20:33:29 GMT -5
Question 1, I have a 2017 Durango 2500 340FLT. I am pretty new at 5th wheel camping and while at the campground last weekend the outside temp was in 30's at night and 40's during the day. All the windows had condensation on the inside pane. Couldn't see any leaks, but didn't know if the condensation was anything to worry about. Is that normal or should I believe three is a leak I don't know about? ?? Question 2 While using the heater while connected to power at campground, is the heater using electricity or propane? Thanks in advance for the help.
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Post by nvguy on Mar 5, 2018 1:07:11 GMT -5
A lot of the condensation is from you and any other living beings in the coach. We exhale a lot of moisture. Next is the stove / oven, burning propane releases a lot of moisture. So, probably no leak(s) to worry about. The furnace uses propane regardless if you are connected to shore power or not. And good thing you were connected to shore power, the furnace will draw your house battery pretty quickly. You are very welcome, feel free to ask any question that comes to mind, this forum is well stocked with good experienced folks.
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Post by lynnmor on Mar 5, 2018 9:01:56 GMT -5
The propane furnace is vented to the outside, so no increase in moisture from it. In addition to nvguy's suggestions, take shorter showers with water no warmer than necessary, take all damp or wet towels and clothing outside. Keep cooking to a minimum and use the hood vent fan. Anything you can do to get moisture outside is what you want to do. That condensation you see came from your activities.
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Post by Chuck on Mar 5, 2018 11:29:18 GMT -5
As nvguy, lynnmor stated this is a common problem when temps changes from high's lows, I even find this in the summer when we close all the shades for the night an open them in the morning when running the air conditioner even on low ... I'm pretty confident as are the other you do not have any leaks only condensation from within Safe Travels Chuck
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Post by rvbrian on Mar 5, 2018 21:34:47 GMT -5
Thank you all for the help. Much appreciated.
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Post by Edd505 on Mar 5, 2018 21:50:18 GMT -5
Did not see it mentioned, always open the roof vent & use the fan showering. Right now I am camped in an area 20's nights & 60-70 days. Only get the moister when using the stove.
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Post by Chuck on Mar 6, 2018 11:20:33 GMT -5
Question 1, I have a 2017 Durango 2500 340FLT. I am pretty new at 5th wheel camping and while at the campground last weekend the outside temp was in 30's at night and 40's during the day. All the windows had condensation on the inside pane. Couldn't see any leaks, but didn't know if the condensation was anything to worry about. Is that normal or should I believe three is a leak I don't know about? ?? Question 2While using the heater while connected to power at campground, is the heater using electricity or propane?Thanks in advance for the help. I don't think the second question was ever answered even when connected to shore power your furnace is using propane to heat .... Also don't forget to turn on the power for your hot water tank which is not only a switch inside but a switch on the hot water tank as well, even thought you can run you water heater on propane it needs to on for electric ... Chuck
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Post by nvguy on Mar 6, 2018 22:18:25 GMT -5
A lot of the condensation is from you and any other living beings in the coach. We exhale a lot of moisture. Next is the stove / oven, burning propane releases a lot of moisture. So, probably no leak(s) to worry about. The furnace uses propane regardless if you are connected to shore power or not. And good thing you were connected to shore power, the furnace will draw your house battery pretty quickly. You are very welcome, feel free to ask any question that comes to mind, this forum is well stocked with good experienced folks. Yep, I did.....Probably should have separated things a bit better... The furnace uses propane regardless if you are connected to shore power or not. And good thing you were connected to shore power, the furnace will draw your house battery pretty quickly.
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Post by spadoctor2 on Mar 7, 2018 8:49:46 GMT -5
As stated the moisture is from your breath....showers....cooking. The furnace does not remove air or moisture from the air as it is a sealed combustion system using all outside air for combustion
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Post by Chuck on Mar 7, 2018 12:57:26 GMT -5
I agree with nvguy, off shore power that furnace is very hungry an will kill your battery or batteries in short order if your not careful ... We have two deep cell batteries an they last pretty well but again I only run are furnace a few minutes to take the chill off if were not hooked to shore power which pretty darn rare but it happens Safe Travels Chuck
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Post by mtcowgirl on Mar 7, 2018 19:37:59 GMT -5
We dry camp and are able to run our furnace using our generator when shore power isn't available.
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Post by bluegrass2 on Mar 7, 2018 23:10:39 GMT -5
We too have 2 deep cycle batteries (golf cart). We have camped 5-6 days without draining the batteries...not sure how much more we could extend it. We do have to be ultra-conservative with the lights, water-pump, and furnace. It will work. As Chuck said....enough to take the chill off for the furnace.
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Post by myredracer on Mar 22, 2018 10:00:09 GMT -5
Never close and seal everything up in an effort to retain heat. You need to exhaust moisture in the air to the outside. There is a lot of moisture created in the small space of an RV. One average human body alone releases 5 cups of water into the air per day. Pets, cooking and showering add more. You need to at a min., open a roof vent and crack open a window or two so that you can get a cross flow of air out. Failure to remove moisture can lead to rot, delamination and mold so don't ignore it plus high humidity can be bad for health.
Heating the interior up more won't help and in fact can make it worse because warmer air holds more moisture. If this is only an occasional thing, opening vents and windows will work. If long duration camping in cold weather, an electric dehumidifier is the answer.
RVs are simply not built correctly for usage in cold weather. Insulation does not have a vapor barrier on the interior side of walls and ceilings and there is an impervious layer on the exterior (fiberglass or metal siding) - the reverse of what's done in buildings. Warm moisture laden air thus will migrate through the walls and ceilings to the cold exterior "skin" and condense which is a really bad thing. That's why you need to keep on top of removing your moisture laden air. It's too bad they don't use closed cell foam in walls which moisture cannot migrate through instead of the cheap open cell stuff.
Gil, Deb and Dougal the Springer Spaniel 2014 KZ Spree 262RKS 2009 F250
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