Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated...

danapop
Newbie RV’er

Posts: 16

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 6, 2018 14:37:47 GMT -5

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Post by danapop on Feb 6, 2018 14:37:47 GMT -5

OK - This is going to seem like a really silly question. I have been doing mountains of reading and watching videos online and I think that I finally fully understand the RV electrical systems. Here is my summary and I am hoping someone can confirm and or correct me:

There are two totally separate electrical systems in the Trailer. A 12v (battery) and 120v (shore) systems. There is no direct cross over between these systems meaning that when I am not plugged into shore power, there is no way to run the 120v appliances / 120v receptacles without the use of a generator. When I am plugged into shore (or a generator) all the lights, etc, are still operating off of 12v power, but the shore power is charging the battery via a converter while allowing operation of the 120v circuit.

Correct?

Moving Along

If I wanted to install a solar system or use a portable solar power panel, I will only be able to operate the 12v circuit as there is no inverter with connection to the 120v circuit. So I would need to go from the solar panels to a charge controller to the battery. From the battery I would need connections to the 12v system as well as connections to a power interter to operate the 120v system.

Correct?

Finally, what would be the best method of operating the entire 120v system? I am thinking it would be running and connecting a 30amp receptacle to the inverter and then plugging in the Trailer Shore power line to that installed receptacle on the inverter? At which point I would need to cut the power to the converter by flipping the beaker.

Thanks everyone for the help and feedback. I previously had a pop-up and we never ever did dry camping with it so I did not bother to learn about the various power systems....

lynnmor
Professional RV’er

Posts: 1,684

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 6, 2018 15:12:59 GMT -5 via mobile

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Post by lynnmor on Feb 6, 2018 15:12:59 GMT -5

You have a good understanding of the systems. You would need a very large battery bank and solar array to operate all 120 volt systems, and that is impractical. If you were to use an inverter with just enough power to run a few things, that cannot be powered otherwise, might make better sense. Air conditioning is a very large load and only a generator makes sense for that. Make a list of what you need powered and go from there. Keep in mind that there is a lot of power in a bottle of propane so cooking, refidgerator, hot water and heating is best on propane. In cold weather the furnace may run a lot so that fan will possibly be the largest electrical load.

danapop
Newbie RV’er

Posts: 16

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 6, 2018 16:10:40 GMT -5

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Post by danapop on Feb 6, 2018 16:10:40 GMT -5

Thanks. I am looking at 4 x 6v 230Ah batteries for a total capacity of 460aH. If I have a reasonable size solar setup, I should be able to maintain charge. Not looking to run AC as much as run the outdoor fridge (which I think is 120v only in the COnnect 312BHK) and Coffee Pot in the AM and a bit of TV is the weather is shite.

lynnmor
Professional RV’er

Posts: 1,684

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 6, 2018 18:04:33 GMT -5 via mobile

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Post by lynnmor on Feb 6, 2018 18:04:33 GMT -5

Sounds like you are good to go. The small fridge probably won’t draw much, check the tag to be sure. Some TV’s have a 12 volt power brick and need no inverter if the brick is replaced with a 12 volt plug. You probably have one that is 120 volt only, so maybe you could sell it. There is some loss using an inverter and that would be the only gain in swapping the TV. I would add a couple of 120 volt, inverter powered outlets and call it good.

doublewa
Seasonal RV’er

Currently acquiring all the 1st Time RV'er must-haves.

Posts: 172

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 7, 2018 16:47:54 GMT -5

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Post by doublewa on Feb 7, 2018 16:47:54 GMT -5

danapop.

Check out Xantrex. They make both 2000W and 1000W full sine wave inveter/chargers that take care of everything. They have 3 stage charge to replenish the 12v system off of the shore power (when connected), they switch 12v from the batteries into your 120V and they have built in GFCI protection.

What's nice about this is that you can wire it to your circuit panel and it will run ALL of your 120v systems.

A word of caution though, the same rules still apply (as Lynnmor stated) you will need to pay attention to how much you draw while disconnected from shore power. For example, I am doing this mod so that I have use of all my outlets, and the microwave so I can make some popcorn or charge my electronics. With only 2 12v batteries, I have no intention of running my A/C, but running a fan at night would be nice and some occasional TV. That way I don't have to use my generator late at night or early in the morning. I'm sure that with your solar array, you can come up with a solution for the power needs that you have specifically.

Seriously though, check out those inverter/chargers.

2018 Sportster 311TH10[br]2011 RAM 3500 Mega Cab

nvguy
Professional RV’er

Posts: 1,375

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 7, 2018 22:15:55 GMT -5 doublewa likes this

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Post by nvguy on Feb 7, 2018 22:15:55 GMT -5

As doublewa said, check out the Xantrex line. You will want a full sine wave inverter. Some inverters (usually cheaper) produce a modified sine which may cause issues with electronics, plus they tend to be less efficient. Having a better, more regulated charger is an added benefit.

2018 Durango 318RLT '20 Ford Lariat F350 4X4 Former RVIA Master Tech, ASE Master HD Truck Tech.

doublewa
Seasonal RV’er

Currently acquiring all the 1st Time RV'er must-haves.

Posts: 172

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 8, 2018 10:15:34 GMT -5

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Post by doublewa on Feb 8, 2018 10:15:34 GMT -5

Feb 7, 2018 22:15:55 GMT -5 nvguy said:

As doublewa said, check out the Xantrex line. You will want a full sine wave inverter. Some inverters (usually cheaper) produce a modified sine which may cause issues with electronics, plus they tend to be less efficient. Having a better, more regulated charger is an added benefit.

That's absolutely true. Modified sine wave can actually damage your sensitive electronics (phones, tablets, etc.). They are cheaper, but as with most things, you get what you pay for.

Additionally, you can get a remote panel that you can mount inside the RV that will give you the status of your inverter, it's charging status, and the charge and condition of your batteries.

2018 Sportster 311TH10[br]2011 RAM 3500 Mega Cab

danapop
Newbie RV’er

Posts: 16

Basic RV Electrical Question that gets complicated... Feb 8, 2018 12:38:58 GMT -5

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Post by danapop on Feb 8, 2018 12:38:58 GMT -5

Thanks everyone! I was looking at installating a Victron BMV-700 battery monitor as well. THis is bluetooth which is nice for a gadget nerd like me...

Any suggestions on places to install a shunt? I am thinking just after the battery disconnect would be the best. The Connect 312BHK doesnt have a battery house so to speak and the 6Vs will be mounted on the a frame behind the propane tanks. Not many options on where to install the shunt...