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Post by jeff318rlt on Jul 7, 2017 3:48:10 GMT -5
I recently purchased the '17 Durango 2500 318RLT. I want to fill my water tank via a transfer tank from my truck, gravity feed. I see they have now removed the fresh water fill tube from the tanks. How does one go about getting water into the tank by gravity feed?
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Post by johnr on Jul 7, 2017 7:08:15 GMT -5
Hi. Do you have a set of A-B switches on your water panel to control where the water is flowing? You may need to connect a hose to the city water connection and flip the switches to the settings to pressure fill the tank. In the image below, to fill the tank, switch A should be ON and switch B should be OFF.  |
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Post by jetzen on Jul 7, 2017 7:41:03 GMT -5
johnr,
just curious. this panel is way different than what is on a Gold. at the bottom of the panel there is pictured 3 hose connections, I assume the one on the left is for city water and the one on the right is the black tank flush. What is the one in the middle used for???
This is what the Panel looks like in a Gold click on photo to enlarge
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Post by johnr on Jul 7, 2017 10:02:39 GMT -5
The one I pictured has 2 tank flushers because it has 2 bathrooms and 2 black tanks. The pull for the second black tank is at the back of the trailer. The middle connection is to flush the second black tank.
That Gold water panel looks a bit more complicated! I do like the fact that your pump switch is there though. For mine I have to go inside the RV to turn the water pump on. That would make winterizing so much easier! Maybe my next DIY project should be to move the pump switch to somewhere near the water panel?
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Post by Chuck on Jul 7, 2017 10:31:02 GMT -5
My panel is like jetzen's an like him I have two pump switches, one on the outside panel an one on the panel inside as well ... I like the fact that you can winterize the trailer from the outside unlike my old trailer were I had to go under the sink an suck antifreeze out thought the water pump, real pain  I also like the fact that I can drain our hot water tank thought a petcock near the inside of the frame an not have to unscrew the plastic plug that I had in the old 5th wheel, much, much easier  |
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Post by jeff318rlt on Jul 7, 2017 14:08:32 GMT -5
Gentlemen,
I have no trouble winterizing my rig. What I do have a problem with is getting water to gravity feed into my fresh water tank. As I originally stated, I would like to gravity flow from my holding tank on the truck to my holding tank on the coach when there is no "pressurized" city water available. My tank sets higher than the tank in the coach, so I wouldn't think it would be a problem. I am thinking there is a back flow check valve in the feed line???
Does anyone have any ideas how this could be accomplished?
johnr, I do not have separate switches on my board, it is identical to the picture that jetzen has posted.
Thanks!
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Post by jetzen on Jul 7, 2017 15:27:37 GMT -5
jeff318rlt,
If your utility panel is just like mine I would try the sanitize mode. Connect your transfer tank to the city water connection and set valves to sanitize and turn the pump on, or being that the transfer tank is higher you could try the powerfill valve setting. |
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 7, 2017 15:34:11 GMT -5
The check valve is within the water pump. You could put a tee between the tank and the pump and add a hose with a valve. While this will work, adding water would be extremely slow. Units with a gravity fill tank have a large hose.
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Post by Edd505 on Jul 7, 2017 21:29:43 GMT -5
jeff318rlt,
If your utility panel is just like mine I would try the sanitize mode. Connect your transfer tank to the city water connection and set valves to sanitize and turn the pump on, or being that the transfer tank is higher you could try the powerfill valve setting. I'm with you I think the sanitize will fill the tank via siphon. Hoping jeff318rlt will let us know how when he gets it figured out. My valves, look like jetsen's picture, follow the pictures. |
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Post by jeff318rlt on Jul 14, 2017 11:06:51 GMT -5
Thank you gentlemen,
Initially I was leery of trying the pump option due to pressure created by the pump.
It indeed did fill the tank utilizing the pump. I am OK with this as I now have a way of filling my tank from my portable tank. I wont need to move the coach to fill the water tank. It takes a while, actually about the same time as a good siphon would. I am still thinking about adding a supply line as a safety and convenience for me. I wish they still put these back in. My fault for not looking for that option when purchasing the coach.
The only drawback to this, that I can see, is I have no way of telling when the tank is full. I will have to trust the level meters, or just put in 1 portable tank at a time. If I put water in via the pump, and the tank fills full, it will pressurize the tank to normal line pressure, and these tanks are not capable of pressure.
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Post by johnr on Jul 14, 2017 11:56:41 GMT -5
Hi. You should have a fresh water tank overflow beneath your RV. Mine is a small red flex pipe in front of the fresh water tank drain. When water comes out of that pipe, your tank is full.
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Post by jeff318rlt on Jul 14, 2017 17:02:04 GMT -5
Hi. You should have a fresh water tank overflow beneath your RV. Mine is a small red flex pipe in front of the fresh water tank drain. When water comes out of that pipe, your tank is full. Is that not the drain?  |
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Post by jetzen on Jul 14, 2017 19:56:20 GMT -5
The tank drain will have a petcock on it, the overflow will not
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Post by jeff318rlt on Jul 15, 2017 19:00:00 GMT -5
The tank drain will have a petcock on it, the overflow will not Good to know, no overflow here, just a drain |
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Post by jetzen on Jul 15, 2017 22:02:52 GMT -5
The tank drain will have a petcock on it, the overflow will not Good to know, no overflow here, just a drain Still "should" have an overflow, it may be tucked in somewhere where you can't see it. I will take some photos and post them as to where mine are located. Low point drains, fresh water tank drain, and overflows. This will at least give you somewhere to look.
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Post by nvguy on Jul 15, 2017 22:33:38 GMT -5
There has to be an overflow / vent to allow air to escape as the tank fills, methinks it is one in the same, most likely as previously mentioned the uncapped red tube.
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Post by jetzen on Jul 15, 2017 23:15:21 GMT -5
There has to be an overflow / vent to allow air to escape as the tank fills, methinks it is one in the same, most likely as previously mentioned the uncapped red tube. All the waste tanks are vented to the roof. The potable water tank "should" have 2 different lines an overflow and a drain. The overflow would originate at the top of the tank and the drain from the bottom. The drain would have a petcock. |
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Post by jeff318rlt on Jul 17, 2017 21:10:49 GMT -5
There has to be an overflow / vent to allow air to escape as the tank fills, methinks it is one in the same, most likely as previously mentioned the uncapped red tube. All the waste tanks are vented to the roof. The potable water tank "should" have 2 different lines an overflow and a drain. The overflow would originate at the top of the tank and the drain from the bottom. The drain would have a petcock. OK, After a quite lengthy investigation,(above the plastic cardboard on the bottom of the coach), I found the vent hose. In the haste to build the coach, yet another "close is good enough" find. It indeed was on the tank, but it was not protruding from the bottom. It is now. The hole in the plastic cardboard, that I presume was for that very thing, was sealed shut by the foam sealer that is used to fill around openings and the overflow hose was deflected to the side. It is now thru the bottom as it should have been, and re-sealed. I apologize for the negativity in my posts, but for 55K, I shouldn't have to search for a drain hose, among other "Close is good enough" things. Thank you for the info on where things should be. I sincerely appreciate it. |
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Post by jetzen on Jul 17, 2017 21:45:10 GMT -5
All the waste tanks are vented to the roof. The potable water tank "should" have 2 different lines an overflow and a drain. The overflow would originate at the top of the tank and the drain from the bottom. The drain would have a petcock. OK, After a quite lengthy investigation,(above the plastic cardboard on the bottom of the coach), I found the vent hose. In the haste to build the coach, yet another "close is good enough" find. It indeed was on the tank, but it was not protruding from the bottom. It is now. The hole in the plastic cardboard, that I presume was for that very thing, was sealed shut by the foam sealer that is used to fill around openings and the overflow hose was deflected to the side. It is now thru the bottom as it should have been, and re-sealed. I apologize for the negativity in my posts, but for 55K, I shouldn't have to search for a drain hose, among other "Close is good enough" things. Thank you for the info on where things should be. I sincerely appreciate it. jeff318rlt,
I think everyone feels that way to an extent, and not to make any excuse and you are correct, they should be built with more care. To be honest the way the RV industry is and KZ specific, I think you are looking at as good as it gets. I have seen 5th wheels that are 3x what you paid and are not put together any better, most are worse. My last 5th wheel was a Montana, had it for 13 years, had minimal problems. Was it trouble free NO. I can tell you that so far with 1500 miles under my belt with it, my Durango is a better built coach.
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Post by Chuck on Jul 17, 2017 22:20:43 GMT -5
I hope I won't put the kiss of death on mine LOL, but have has a few minor problem with a slide I fixed myself My furnace had a problem which was repaired pretty quick by a RV repair shop/Dealer so far, still have not figured out the LCI leveling system yet but I am getting there slow but sure ... Chuck and Hildi out and about |
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