lsc13
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 7 
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Post by lsc13 on Jul 3, 2017 16:31:01 GMT -5
I have a newbie question about our water heater.
We recently used it for the first time but I think we went wrong somewhere and the manual is of no help to me figuring it out.
We set up in the evening connecting to city water & electric. The propane was on but I never did any sort of test by lighting the stove as we didn't need it and I didn't know at the time it's a way to bleed out air in the line too. Anyway, during the night our CO alarm went off. We shut off propane, left the trailer, opened windows etc until the trailer was clear. The heater worked at some point because the next morning we still had hot water enough for me to shower but not for the hubs even though we shut off the propane half way through the night. We moved to another location that day so I tried again at the next site.
Set up everything and this time I tested the stove, which worked just fine but the hot water heater never worked. I suspect my problem is somewhere with the electric ignition? But really, I'm clueless and I'm the handier of us adults here!! We're hesitant to even turn on the propane since we know CO is such a danger and we're such newbies. I probably should have asked a fellow camper at the time but we were in such a hurry to get from point A to B we didn't have the time to seek assistance.
And maybe once I get this figured out I'll ask about why I can't get my fridge to turn over to propane...unless that is somehow related to my water heater issue.
We have a brand new Spree Escape 191bh.
Thanks!
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 3, 2017 18:00:45 GMT -5
First thing is that you may or may not have a combination LP and CO detector. Of course a malfunction allowing propane to flow into the trailer will be caught by the detector and set off the alarm. CO is carbon monoxide and is a result of a fuel burning.
The LP alarm can be set off by things like hair spray and dogs passing gas.
If you have a fridge with Auto, Gas & Off, it will operate on electric when connected and set on Auto.
Try again with the gas bottle and frige turned off and then open the valve very slooowwwly till it is snug in the open position. Next, light the stove till all burners operate normally. Set the fridge to gas and see if the burner lights, it may take a second try if air needs purged.
Report back giving results and more information about what appliances you have. We need to know what type of water heater you have.
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lsc13
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 7
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Post by lsc13 on Jul 3, 2017 18:33:37 GMT -5
Ah yes, you're right. It probably was the LP portion of the monitor and not the CO as I believe we do have a combination monitor. That makes more sense than a CO problem.
I will have to try the steps you've outlined the next time we have the camper out. It's in storage currently since we just relocated. Is it supposed to switch over automatically if the electric is cut and the propane on or would I have to go through those steps each time?
And you're absolutely correct, I should have had all my information at the ready to diagnose my problem. I'm not sure off hand what type of water heater I have. I'll report back when I'm able to get back to it, hopefully soon.
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 4, 2017 9:03:41 GMT -5
The fridge will switch between gas and electric automatically when set to Auto, provided you have the gas turned on and the battery is connected and charged. The water heater is turned on by switches, choosing gas, electric or both. Of course this depends on what appliances are installed.
You do have a good battery?
Do you have a master battery switch?
Is the battery being charged in storage, or is it disconnected?
A battery will discharge while stored and will be ruined if it is discharged too far or too often.
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lsc13
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 7
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Post by lsc13 on Jul 4, 2017 11:51:57 GMT -5
The battery is not being charged in storage which is unfortunate for us because we have an electric jack and well, as you say it gets discharged while not being used. We learned that one the hard way. We don't have any option to keep it charged while there either. It does not have a switch to disconnect them but I've read that it's a good idea to have one installed. Are those easy to do for a novice? Or would that require a trip to somewhere to be done? We've only had the trailer a few months so I would assume the batteries are new and good but I'm well aware of what assumptions can do.
So you're saying some water heaters work on just electric? Wonder if we have one that should because it certainly didn't or it did but then stopped. Gosh I wish I had our manuals here so I could get to the bottom of this and not wait until I can get back over to it.
I reread what you wrote and see you mentioned disconnecting the batteries. I suppose that's my best option until we can get a switch installed, yes? Does that involve just unscrewing the connections?
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 4, 2017 12:44:40 GMT -5
You can just disconnect one battery cable, the negative one is the safest with no worry of contacting ground. Since the battery is probably discharged now you should charge it as soon as possible. To get maximum life from a battery it should be kept fully charged and never discharged more than 50%. A switch is easy to install, just select a battery cable and connect it to the switch, then connect the other terminal to the battery. Don't forget to check the battery water level about once a month and fill as necessary with distilled water.
To maintain a battery you could bring it home and connect it to a good small battery charger like a Battery Tender. For charging in storage there are solar chargers available and there are battery boxes with a solar charger built in. Keep in mind that thieves love batteries.
Until I know the make and model of your water heater I can't diagnose any problems. A water heater that is not completely filled when the electric is turned on will burn out the heating element immediately. That is an easy fix with no great expense if the tank wasn't damaged from the resulting sparks. Any chance you did that?
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Post by frontrangefish on Jul 5, 2017 13:18:31 GMT -5
I also have a new Spree Escape 191BH and had a problem this weekend with the CO alarm going off. I did have water heater on at the time and it was very windy, we had a few windows partly open. Of course I was I in the shower with a head full of shampoo when it went off, and the family went into full freak out mode. I immediately suspected the hot water heater and had my wife turn it off while I got the soap washed off. Got them out in the truck, and then opened all the windows to clear out the air. It kept going off for a time even after hitting the reset button. Eventually I yanked the fuse for it (top one BTW and it will take out the fridge too), after putting the fuse back, it sent the unit into reset, flashing green, and then it was all clear, solid green, after about 5 minutes. It did not go off again, but we did not use the hot water heater again either.
I bought a stand alone, battery operated, CO detector this weekend and plan on mounting it next to the built in one to compare if it goes off again.
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 5, 2017 13:49:14 GMT -5
Low voltage can set of a detector. You should have a voltmeter for both the AC voltage and the battery voltage. 12.10 volts should be considered minimum for the battery system and 105 volts the absolute minimum at the outlets.
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Post by frontrangefish on Jul 5, 2017 14:32:53 GMT -5
On mine, it has chirped before like a low battery alarm, usually just after I have plugged into the truck, a tap on the reset button usually takes care of it.
This was a full blown alarm and we were plugged into electric at the time.
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jeeep
Newbie RV’er
Posts: 5 
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Post by jeeep on Jul 16, 2017 9:35:04 GMT -5
I have a 2016 191bh also. The CO/propane detector causes to much stress. Do a search on this blog and you will be amazed how many people have problems with false alarms with detectors.
When I first got my camper our alarm would always go off in the middle of the night. You can't go back to sleep when woken up by that noise. The dealer checked for leaks and said it was fine and I finally get the camper back after losing it for a month during summer!!!! After getting it back the alarm continues to go off all the time. I should push the dealer for a new detector, but I don't want to loose the camper for another month.
I'm like Frontrangefish, I've disconnected the detector and I use a plug-in, battery backup, CO detector. Propane has a strong smell. I use my nose to detect propane. At the end of the season I'll lose the camper for a month waiting for them to replace the detector.
Isc13, the first time my hot water heater didn't lite, it turned out I forgot to turn on the propane. The second time it didn't lite was because the propane tank was empty. You said, the stove worked, so it sounds like you had propane and the tank was turned on. Make sure you have a good battery charge, make sure you have propane and the tank is turned on. If it doesn't work plan to lose the camper for a month at the dealer.
Good luck!
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Post by frontrangefish on Aug 6, 2017 22:17:24 GMT -5
Had the trailer out this weekend again and wanted to take a shower, turn on the hot water heater and before too long the CO detector goes off again. The separate battery powered one I got for comparison, a foot and a half away, did not go off.
The power cable for the CO detector is spliced in just under the bottom bunk and is easy to get to, I am thinking about disconnecting it and only using the stand alone battery unit. It throws the kids into a tizzy when it starts beeping.
I don't know if it's too sensitive, or just in a bad location. It's mounted under the bottom bunk with the fresh water tank and the hot water heater.
It's becoming my arch nemesis.
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Post by nvguy on Aug 6, 2017 23:09:17 GMT -5
From where I sit, if the secondary battery powered one didn't go off, the hardwired one is likely defective and should be replaced. These detectors have some rather specific mounting location requirements, so I would review the instructions that came with the RV to make sure the manufacturer placed it correctly. Also, how is the detector placed in relation to any open windows / doors? As previously mentioned, these things are sensitive, so if there was a breeze, some CO from the water heater could have caused the alarm.
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Post by frontrangefish on Aug 6, 2017 23:42:18 GMT -5
First time around there were windows open and it was windy, so I could see where it was possible to pull some CO in. This time it was a cool, still morning. The two roof vents were open a crack, and the window over the sink a crack.
I thinks it's either hyper sensitive or is something about the back of it being in the same interior space as the hot water heater, under the lower bunk.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 7, 2017 7:47:03 GMT -5
Since there is no way of knowing how well either of the detector works, you might want to contact your local fire company and have the air and detectors tested. Most should have a detector available and would be happy to be of service.
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Post by frontrangefish on Aug 10, 2017 15:58:23 GMT -5
Some follow up, checked with a neighbor who has the same model, Eacape 191BH, but it was a 2016 instead of 2017, and he has had all sorts of problems with his CO detector too.
His likes to go off in the middle of the night, even when they didn't have a propane tank connect to trailer. Dealer said it could be caused by glue or laquor used in trailer, or the dog passing gas. Finally they agreed to replace it and he said two hours later it was going off again, and there was no propane hooked up.
I'm disconnecting it the next time we camp.
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Post by lynnmor on Aug 10, 2017 16:01:47 GMT -5
Some follow up, checked with a neighbor who has the same model, Eacape 191BH, but it was a 2016 instead of 2017, and he has had all sorts of problems with his CO detector too. His likes to go off in the middle of the night, even when they didn't have a propane tank connect to trailer. Dealer said it could be caused by glue or laquor used in trailer, or the dog passing gas. Finally they agreed to replace it and he said two hours later it was going off again, and there was no propane hooked up. I'm disconnecting it the next time we camp. A. What was the voltage at the time of the alarm? Low voltage can trigger it. B. Does he have a dog, that is more common than you might think. |
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Post by nvguy on Aug 13, 2017 1:10:24 GMT -5
What he said, check voltage and yes dogs are a frequent issue...at the minimum leave the battery powered one operational.
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