bigbrut
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Post by bigbrut on Jun 21, 2017 18:59:43 GMT -5
When towing and I,m on a rough section of road the trailer will sway from side to side like a pull trailer and can be worst if your traveling at faster speeds. It looks like side walls of the tires may be flexing to much. I pull it with a 2016 Ram 2500 4 door crew cab short bed diesel. It has rear air suspension. My hitch is a Pull Rite super glide with the factory puck system. Has any one had any problems with this type of set up? I have been RVing for 30 plus years and have never had a 5th wheel trailer handle like this.
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 21, 2017 20:02:10 GMT -5
Inflate the tires on both the truck and trailer to maximum sidewall pressure and try again. Many KZ products use the absolute minimum tire and axles, so find your weights and see if you might want to upgrade.
I have heard some complaints about trucks like yours, but it should work, maybe visit some forums that discuss it.
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bigbrut
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Post by bigbrut on Jun 21, 2017 20:28:52 GMT -5
I always set tire pressure at max cold pressure before each trip so I don't think that's the problem
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Post by jetzen on Jun 22, 2017 8:11:13 GMT -5
When towing and I,m on a rough section of road the trailer will sway from side to side like a pull trailer and can be worst if your traveling at faster speeds. It looks like side walls of the tires may be flexing to much. I pull it with a 2016 Ram 2500 4 door crew cab short bed diesel. It has rear air suspension. My hitch is a Pull Rite super glide with the factory puck system. Has any one had any problems with this type of set up? I have been RVing for 30 plus years and have never had a 5th wheel trailer handle like this. Correct air pressure in the tires is a must, other than that I would check to make sure that when hitched the trailer is riding level. While it is important to have the truck ride level it is even more important to have the trailer ride level. You may have to adjust the king pin or the hitch height or both. |
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 22, 2017 8:54:54 GMT -5
You need to know the total trailer weight loaded and the pin weight. In order to call the trailer 1/2 ton towable, some manufacturers reduce the pin weight too much. The pin weight should be about 20% of the total weight. After you visit a scale, check those tire load capacities to see if they are marginal.
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bigbrut
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Post by bigbrut on Jun 23, 2017 19:13:42 GMT -5
Nice to meet you guys and thanks for the help. My dealer said it is a little high in the front but not bad. But he said it would be wise to upgrade the tires. I have ST225/75R15 load range D. I need to go to the load range E and I'm looking at going to a LT tire instead of the ST any information on this? I heard you could get 12 ply in the LT.
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 23, 2017 19:34:01 GMT -5
Nice to meet you guys and thanks for the help. My dealer said it is a little high in the front but not bad. But he said it would be wise to upgrade the tires. I have ST225/75R15 load range D. I need to go to the load range E and I'm looking at going to a LT tire instead of the ST any information on this? I heard you could get 12 ply in the LT. The 15" will be a problem, there is almost nothing available in LT that is equivalent to the current size. If you move up to 16" wheels there are many options in LT tires. |
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Post by jetzen on Jun 23, 2017 19:58:25 GMT -5
Bigbrutt,
I would recommend that you stay with ST (Special Trailer) as this type of tires will handle side wall stress better than LT (Light Truck). In the ST 225/75R15 the tire manufacturers do make a load range E (10 ply) as opposed to the load range D (8ply) that you currently have on your trailer. This will also increase your load carrying capacity by about 300lbs per tire.
After a search on the internet I found no listings for a LT225/75R15 so if you wanted to go to an LT tire you would need to go to a 16" wheel. Sounds like a pretty big investment for something that you are not sure will correct your problem.
If your dealer is telling you that you are nose high it costs you nothing to adjust the king pin and hitch height to make the trailer ride level. Like I stated before it is more important to have the trailer ride level than it is the truck. Maybe even lower the air suspension on the truck 1 inch at a time and retry.
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bigbrut
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Seasoned RV'er
Posts: 14
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Post by bigbrut on Jun 24, 2017 11:50:25 GMT -5
Jetzen
The pin box is adjusted all the way up and the factory air suspension is not adjustable. That's the problem with the factory rear air suspension on the Dodge trucks.I guess it would be best to stick to ST and go to load range E. Is there any tire brand that has a stronger side wall ? I posted a picture of my trailer hooked up to my truck, I don't know if you can see the height from that.
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Post by jetzen on Jun 24, 2017 13:28:43 GMT -5
bigbrut,
I have a 2013 Ram 2500 I do not have the air suspension. Looking at your photo you are high in the nose which will load your axles on the trailer unevenly. If you have the equaflex system on the trailer axles this will help a lot but is not a cure all. Uneven axle loading can cause trailer sway, heavier load range tires could help. If you can't bring the nose down then the tail has to go up. If you are out of adjustment on the king pin and hitch and adjusting/lowering the ride height of the truck is out of the equation, then you would have two other options to try neither are cheap or easy. You can purchase larger wheels and tires as lynnmor suggested or you could try an axle flip on the trailer both are drastic. On tire brands I would give particular attention to the weight of the tire. The heavier the tire the more material it is made of.
So I have to ask you how bad is the sway?? Is it happening all the time or was this a one time deal because of a road condition?? When traveling down the road you want to be as safe as you can possibly be.
This is from my Ram operators manual on how to manually adjust the ride hieght, don't know if yours operates the same way.
NOTE: If equipped with a touch screen radio all
enabling/disabling of air suspension features must be
done through the radio. Refer to “Uconnect® Access
Settings” in “Understanding Your Instrument Panel” for
further information.
Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC)
Display Messages
When the appropriate conditions exist, a message will
appear in the EVIC display. Refer to “Electronic Vehicle
Information Center (EVIC)” in “Understanding Your
Instrument Panel” for further information.
An audible chime will be heard whenever a system error
has been detected.
Operation
The indicator lamps 3 through 6 will illuminate to show
the current position of the vehicle. Flashing indicator
lamps will show a position which the system is working
to achieve. When raising, if multiple indicator lamps are
flashing, the highest flashing indicator lamp is the position
the system is working to achieve. When lowering, if
multiple indicators are flashing, the lowest solid indicator
lamp is the position the system is working to achieve.
Pressing the “UP” button once will move the suspension
one position higher from the current position, assuming
all conditions are met (i.e. key in ON/RUN position,
engine running, speed below threshold, etc). The “UP”
button can be pressed multiple times, each press will
raise the requested level by one position up to a maximum
position of OR2 or the highest position allowed
based on current conditions (i.e. vehicle speed, etc).
Pressing the “DOWN” button once will move the suspension
one position lower from the current level, assuming
all conditions are met (i.e. key in ON/RUN
position, engine running, doors closed, speed below
threshold, etc). The “DOWN” button can be pressed
multiple times, each press will lower the requested level by one position down to a minimum of Entry/Exit Mode
or the lowest position allowed based on current conditions
(i.e. vehicle speed, etc.)
Automatic height changes will occur based on vehicle
speed and the current vehicle height. The indicator lamps
and EVIC messages will operate the same for automatic
changes and user requested changes.
• Off-Road 2 (OR2) – Indicator lamps 3, 4, 5, and 6 will
be illuminated when the vehicle is in OR2.
• Off-Road 1 (OR1) – Indicator lamps 3,4 and 5 will be
illuminated when the vehicle is in OR1.
• Normal Ride Height (NRH)/Aero Mode – Indicator
lamps 3 and 4 will be illuminated when the vehicle is
in this position.
• Entry/Exit Mode – Indicator lamp 3 will be illuminated
when the vehicle is in Entry Exit Mode. Entry/
Exit mode can be requested up to 33 mph (53 km/h).
If vehicle speed is reduced to, and kept below, 15 mph
(24 km/h) indicator lamp 4 will flash and indicator
lamp 3 will remain solid until Entry/Exit Mode is
achieved at which point indicator lamp 4 will turn off.
• Transport Mode – No indicator lamps will be illuminated.
Transport Mode is disabled by driving the
vehicle.
• Tire/Jack Mode – indicator lamps 3 and 6 will be
illuminated. Tire/Jack Mode is disabled by driving the
vehicle.
• Wheel Alignment Mode – indicator lamps 3 and 4 will
be illuminated. Wheel Alignment Mode is disabled by
driving the vehicle.
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STARTING AND OPERATING 413 |
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bigbrut
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Seasoned RV'er
Posts: 14
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Post by bigbrut on Jun 27, 2017 18:13:35 GMT -5
Jetzen
Haven't had a chance to play with the rear air suspension on my Dodge yet but I did research on tires. The 16" wheel and tire combo won't fit on the trailer (235/85R16) to tall,so I'm thinking of going to the 225/75R15 load range E in either the Maxxis or Provider Taskmaster tire. Do have any pros or cons on these 2 brands?
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 27, 2017 19:03:03 GMT -5
I would get the Goodyear Endurance tires. They are a new product made in the USA.
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bigbrut
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Post by bigbrut on Jun 27, 2017 19:09:30 GMT -5
The Maxxis are US built also
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Post by jetzen on Jun 28, 2017 7:12:22 GMT -5
Jetzen Haven't had a chance to play with the rear air suspension on my Dodge yet but I did research on tires. The 16" wheel and tire combo won't fit on the trailer (235/85R16) to tall,so I'm thinking of going to the 225/75R15 load range E in either the Maxxis or Provider Taskmaster tire. Do have any pros or cons on these 2 brands? I posted this under tire upgrades
kzfamilyforum.com/thread/1374/tire-upgrade?page=2
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Post by joecamper on Jun 28, 2017 9:19:53 GMT -5
I have Maxxis on my Durango. Got about 6k on them so far, I like them, if for nothing else than peace of mind.
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Post by jetzen on Jun 28, 2017 9:54:10 GMT -5
I have Maxxis on my Durango. Got about 6k on them so far, I like them, if for nothing else than peace of mind. I have heard some good things about Maxxis tires. They seem to have a very good following and not much bad press that I can find. |
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Post by lynnmor on Jun 28, 2017 10:37:33 GMT -5
Maxxis is made in Thailand.
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bigbrut
Newbie RV’er
Seasoned RV'er
Posts: 14
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Post by bigbrut on Jul 2, 2017 17:12:29 GMT -5
Had my tire guy bring in the Maxxis and Goodyear. The Goodyear had a stiffer side wall than the Maxxis so I'm going with the Goodyear. I hope this helps my handling problems.The tire upgrade was needed anyway. From what I've read on other posts the wheels should be fine with the load range E (80psi) tires. Has any one heard any thing different?
Thanks for all the help guys !!!
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bigbrut
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Seasoned RV'er
Posts: 14
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Post by bigbrut on Jul 31, 2017 18:49:09 GMT -5
Got the Goodyear Endurance in the load range E on my trailer and went on our first trip with the new tires, what a difference my handling problems are gone. KZ if you're reading these posts you should upgrade tires on your Durango 1500 D259RDD and other models.
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Post by jetzen on Aug 6, 2017 22:02:20 GMT -5
While at the rally we went to the KZ factory and talked to the exec's.. This was one of the topics we voiced our concerns and will see what happens, but it looks like at least for the foreseeable future that the Taskmaster/Provider will be the standard tire brand with a Goodyear upgrade option. That being said the Taskmaster brand has a very good reputation as being a durable tire with few complaints even though they are made in China.
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