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Post by carolinole on Apr 30, 2017 15:43:33 GMT -5
OK,
This new Durango has way more bells and whistles than my 2001 Sportsmen. The one I'm most concerned with is the "auto leveling".
I know it's not rocket science and I have tried it in my yard a couple of times, but we plan to take a trip in a few weeks to the Myrtle Beach Travel Park and I would hate to get there and have issues getting the fiver setup and leveled. So, any advice for a "rookie" as it relates to the Lippert Auto Leveling on the new Durangos? BTW, ours has the four point auto leveling with the JT Strong Arms. Maybe someone has a list of some things to do or better, not to do. The tech that did our PDI and walkthrough warned me about getting it "out of level" or the controller "losing" level.... Also, what about the auto remember function that will take it back to the level of my hitch when we are ready to leave. How do I set that up?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice!
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Post by Chuck on Apr 30, 2017 16:00:20 GMT -5
carolinole Welcome to the Kz Family  LOL you are not alone, there are a bunch of us here that have gone thought the same thing, if you read thought the posts under Durango and Sportsman you will see a number of post regarding this subject ... We have the G384RLT with the 6 point leveling Lippert system an are still working thought it LOL : If you look under ONE touch Control, under Durango there is a great discussion, some also here is the link to a video on the Lippert web page www.lci1.com/onecontrol Check out the Kz Rally posts, lots off exciting things as going to happen safe travels Chuck |
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Post by carolinole on Apr 30, 2017 18:03:14 GMT -5
Chuck, Well at least I'm not alone in my terror... Thanks for the response and the places to read about the leveling system. I think I may have read some of your posts over on the iRV2 board... At any rate, I'm sure as we use our new Durango, we will get more accustomed to it (and spoiled too I'm sure). We looked at the Durango Gold packages at the dealer but got a deal on the 2500 we couldn't pass up. The Gold's are absolutely gorgeous, so congrats on buying such a nice fiver. Also, we would like to make it to the rally this year but my wife teaches school and has to be back by then. So we will have to catch it another year. It's interesting how few KZ products we see here in the South. Tons of Montanas, Eagles, Sand Pipers, Cardinals, but very few Sportsmen or Durangos. When I search the web, I see there are tons of KZ's the west of the Mississippi, so I guess it's a regional thing. Thanks again for the advice, CaroliNole |
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Post by johnr on May 1, 2017 12:19:03 GMT -5
Hi, welcome to the group!
Auto level is pretty simple. I get mine fairly level side to side (touching the line on either side is Ok). Once there, I unhook and then just hit the Auto Level button and the system takes care of the rest. You may find you need blocks under the pads depending on where you camp.
Once it's level, tighten your JT Strongarms.
Once you're ready to leave, loosen the JT bolts, then retract rear jacks. If you move the jacks before you loosen the JT bolts, you're going to need a hammer handy to get them loose... trust me. That is now the first thing I do on the day we're pulling out, I walk out of the camper and loosen the bolts. Then I check them several times before we leave.
There is a return to hitch height function which will take the RV back to where it was when you hit Auto Level. There is one caveat to keep in mind, this feature will only work if the nose dropped to get level. That means it will raise the front end back to height, but it won't lower the front end. I imagine they did that so that nobody would accidently get crushed by the RV on its way down. To return to hitch height, you press both the left and right arrow buttons at the same time and let them go.
It does take a little playing around to get used to, but I'm sure you'll be enjoying it very soon! Read through the manual as there are other tips and tricks in there. My wife likes the door side to be a little lower for sleeping, so for a long time I would auto level it and then raise the opposite side by .2 degrees. Once I read the manual, I found that I could re-zero the unit, so I set it the way I wanted and told the unit that where it was at that moment was perfectly level, so I didn't have to mess around anymore.
Good luck!
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Post by Chuck on May 1, 2017 13:19:22 GMT -5
As johnr stated do not be scared when you see the front landing jacks start to lower when you do the auto level,
this was one of things that scared me at first till I got use to it.
The front trailer jacks will lower maybe less than a foot and then rise up and you will see the other jacks start
to lower ...
I have to say even thought I have lowered and raised my jacks now about dozen time I'm just getting use to them,
so as johnr stated it takes awhile
safe travels
Chuck
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Post by ronc on May 4, 2017 10:04:57 GMT -5
I also have the 6 point leveling system. I use three 1 foot sections of 2x10 stacked on top of each other on each of the 6 jack positions. This causes the jacks to extend LESS to achieve level and causes them to be stiffer than if they extended more (shorter is stiffer). This reduces the movement of trailer when parked and seems to have reduced the Lippert Pop.
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Post by Chuck on May 5, 2017 10:34:04 GMT -5
I use 8x10 blocks to do the same thing. works pretty slick, I used them on my old 5th wheel but didn't know how well they would work with new system till I use them last camping trip, no problem at all I was thinking about changing over to the yellow Lego blocks because of weight, but buy the time I buy enough I'd be broke Ugh  Safe Travels Chuck |
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Post by ronc on May 6, 2017 11:13:14 GMT -5
Hey Chuck,
I have the yellow lego blocks, but have never used them. They are probably fine, but they seem "fragile" to me. If others have used them with success over time, I'd love to hear about their experiences. The wood is heavier the plastic blocks, by a LOT.
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Post by jetzen on May 6, 2017 11:34:16 GMT -5
ronc,
I have the orange Lynx leveler/chock blocks, used them extensively on my old 5ver to level and block the wheels. About the only negative with them is the color fades. I have the whole system, 20 leveler blocks, 8 block caps and 2 stop chocks. They work great.
trilynx.com/ |
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Post by Chuck on May 6, 2017 14:56:22 GMT -5
Ok jetzen What I was talking about is the blocks you use under the landing & leveling jacks, I still also carry a 2x8 plank with me to level with. Old habit is hard to break LOL, but I also been looking at the orange Lynx leveler/chock blocks, I do have the X chock units to put between the wheels ... I have also bought the longer sewer hose holder from Camping world to store my sewer hose in since the bumper is to small for the newer hose's, I'm not a fan of the container in the storage area safe travels Chuck |
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Post by jetzen on May 6, 2017 15:18:51 GMT -5
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Post by Chuck on May 6, 2017 21:26:20 GMT -5
Ok I see said the blind man LOL, thank you |
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Post by Edd505 on May 7, 2017 19:14:37 GMT -5
Chuck I can get two lengths of Rhino hose in the bumper. I'm going to add another 4" pipe under the back for added hose storage. I also have a plastic bin with other sewer fittings it the front bay with hoses, blocks, sewer support, electric cords, fittings etc. The 353 has 2 dump connections, bath blk/gry just forward of the slide and kitchen gry at the back corner. I going to see if I can connect the kitchen to the bath for a single connection. I have been using a Y but it's not convenient because of the distance between the two fittings getting to the ground connction.
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Post by Chuck on May 18, 2017 0:00:47 GMT -5
Edd505 I can not get me new Rhino hose in the bumper, if face my old hose the twisted end I have to pry out, I preyed one to may times and broke it thus I had to by a new hose. I had about 40ft of the old stuff, I threw it all away and bought all new Rhino hose. I only have one sewer outlet and it is right before the kitchen slide ... The main bathroom large pipe comes down from the black and a small one come from under the sink and dish washer from the other side ... I have three T bar hands, two gray and one black... What am finding out here is that some of the older camp ground have the sewer inlet at the back of the site along with their water and electric. They were not made for 40ft trailers even thought they a 50ft or so sites. Last year in one camp group I had to buy a 25ft extra hose to hook up to their sewer, our friends told me take it back to the RV campground store and lent me one of his extra's, save me 50 bucks ... Like I think I said before is that I bought the big sewer hose holder from Camping world and I have the smaller hose holder So now I have extra of my own and way cheaper that what the campground store wanted Chuck |
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Itully
Newbie RV’er
Howdy from Central Texas
Posts: 27 
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Post by Itully on Jul 5, 2017 11:09:23 GMT -5
I use the yellow blocks, and because of old habits I also have a selection of 1-2 foot 2x10s.. If the ground is flat (no big rocks) I use the yellow blocks.
If not I start with the boards and put the yellow blocks on top as needed.
I have never had an issue with the blocks. They are very light and easy to stack. The auto level is magic and works very well once you get used to it.
as ronc mentioned, I also like to put blocks under all jacks that look like they will need to extend a fair amount.
I have a couple plastic crates I put the sewer hoses in after I rinse them thoroughly. Have never had an issue with smell, but I get having them outside is a good idea.
I think I now have 4 sections of camco revolution swivel hoses giving me 40 feet with camco rhino flex connectors for the trailer end. I have had the add to the collection as we find sites with sewer further and further away! I also added a 90 degree brass fitting on the water inlet so the hose drops straight down.
I use the camco 50 amp protector. Works well but it is outside. I guess if its ever stolen I'll spring for the interior progressive unit.
Lots I am looking at but can't afford now, water softener, air compressor, etc.. I had not heard about the water heater upgrade, will have to investigate.
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