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Post by larryz4 on Jul 10, 2016 15:13:59 GMT -5
We took our C250BHS out for a week long trip, and because "someone" burned out the water heater element before we got the trailer, I replaced it before we left. The burned out element was replaced the same size (1400W) element, and it works just fine. I did find that IF I have the water heater on electric, and I fire up my 15000 BTU Air Conditioner, it trips the MAIN 30A breaker. Has anyone else had this issue? Aside from not running both (and/or the microwave), is there a fix that can be done to solve this issue? It was quite frustrating as the temps were hovering around 100 degrees and having to reset the breaker every 5 minutes was not a solution.
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Post by KZrider on Jul 10, 2016 16:11:27 GMT -5
You hit on one of the key elements of breaker tripping, 100 + degrees. I have had many different types of RVs and all 30 amp until my current Durango that is 50 amps. All of my 30 amp units exhibited your same symptoms when trying to run two or more high watt devices at the same time. Whether it be microwave and ac, electric skillet and ac, etc., when temps push into the high 90s, breakers trip. Another issue can be the quality of the electric current. High temperatures cause loads to increase in RV parks which can lead to lower than ideal volts and amps thus putting your equipment in stressful conditions. Many RV parks do not run large enough cables for extreme loads.
Another thought is that while you are under these conditions would be run the water heater on gas during the day and switch to electricity during the night when conditions are better.
Good luck and good camping!
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Post by lynnmor on Jul 10, 2016 17:36:27 GMT -5
Good advice on using gas, not electric, for the water heater. Be sure that you have a good battery, charging the battery is an additional load. Forget about using the microwave while the AC is struggling.
Get a voltmeter, preferably a digital one that can be plugged in at a convenient location, and look at it often. Voltage below 105 can damage your AC and add to the breaker tripping problem. Of course the voltage should be 115 or higher for best performance. Plugging into a 50 amp outlet with an adapter might give you better voltage. If you are dealing with low voltage, other than moving, the only fix is an autoformer. Whatever you do, get a volt meter.
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Post by clown9644 on Jul 25, 2016 17:45:56 GMT -5
A couple of thoughts about power. I agree with lynnmor, get a volt meter. If you have a Harbor Freight they sell a good one www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html. Worth every penny. Another purchase for safety is a touch power tester such as this one www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-voltage-tester-97218.html. Why this tester? Well it is the first thing out of my tool box as I am hooking up (already did the leveling stuff). I tell everyone not to touch the camper when I plug in the power cord, then I touch the camper with the tester and trust me, I have found SEVERAL outlets that were wired backwards putting the 110 volts on the chassis of the camper. On a wet day, that can kill you!!! For the AC issue, some of the AC units can have the starting capacitor changed so that it draws less current, especially at start up. My cost in the neighborhood of $30 plus installation but may solve your issue. One other trick you may want to try. Check the box you plug into. Many of them have a standard 20 amp outlet as well as the 30 amp 220. I carry an extension cord with me and will run it in under my slide out (gaskets are very forgiving there) and then I can plug in my microwave to it. Though mine is the 110 volt ac I go to a couple of places that are actually only 15 amps, but have 2 of them so I use the extension cord. It works! Just my 2 cents |
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Post by poppachris on Jul 26, 2016 21:30:06 GMT -5
Please understand that the 15KW AC unit will have an initial starting surge in excess of 20 amps. Your 1400W water heater pulls approximately 12 amps. That exceeds your 30 amp main. While running the AC generally falls to about 8 amps which along with the heater totals a safe 20 amps. But add your fridge on 120VAC and any other loads and you can easily load up again. So the key is limiting your load a bit. The easiest is to run your Hot water heater on Propane until it heats the water, then you can switch to 120V to maintain. Or wait until your coach cools down on AC so it doesn't cycle so much before adding 120V hot water. Remember, running a microwave adds a big load also. at least 10 amps.
It all boils down to load management. Running hot water and a microwave means turning off the AC briefly while using both of the other devices. Finished cooking and washing dishes? Turn the AC back on. We are camping after all.
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Post by joecamper on Aug 3, 2016 19:13:30 GMT -5
"We are camping after all." Couldn't have heard it any better explained than that. I have learned to be the load management expert using tricks just as you describe. Thanks for making me chuckle!
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Post by mdconvert on Aug 8, 2016 5:35:06 GMT -5
To monitor the voltage of your supply, as lynnmor recommends, you can use a volt meter or you may consider buying one of these: Kill A Watt MeterI use mine for monitoring the voltage and frequency of the generator for home and would also use it for the generator we plan to use for camping, if we ever need to. They can be also be used to know the load of appliances (within limits).
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